Hello,

I was working on swapping my brake lines to the ss braided ones.
I got to the third one, front right. I tried to open the flare nut, and it would not move. After several tries, the nut is kinda rounded.
I used flare nut wrench. I tried to use other wrench, to no avail...

This is on both nut on front right. All other sides are okay(both rear and front left).

Help!

Reza

 

by caliper

 

by brake lines

 

Vice grip?

 

yes, vice grips will work. that's what I use when they start to round, which is pretty often.

 

Vise grips. I didn't like to do it but I had one not open with the flare wrench either. The vise grips got it without a problem.

 

vice grips. either that or a screw driver. flat head and hit it w/ a hammer in the right direction. it will make a small groove in the nut, and you may be able to get it loose like that.

 

Vice grips, then buy a new one.

If the fitting is on tight (OEM, never been removed) then put the flare wrench on the nut and tap it lightly with a hammer to break it loose much more easily and eliminate the risk of rounding off the fittings.

Invest in a set of crow-foot flare wrenches so that you can torque the fittings properly when reinstalling the brake lines. Harbor Freight has a set that is very good quality, surprisingly, for $12.99.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47928

With a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, you can use a 1/4" drive torque wrench to torque the fittings to the proper number of in-lbs. without worrying about damaging the fittings or them being too loose or too tight.

Look on the bright side... a new project is always a good excuse to buy new tools.

 

alright...I will try with vise grips...

I guess I am not going to track tommorow.

 

Anything else, I'd say throw it back on. But you don't cut corners with the brake system, especially if you're going to go run the car at high speed. At least I wouldn't.

Better safe than sorry, as the saying goes. Your call.

 

Yea,
There has been a lot of things that tries to prevent me from going to track this weekend.
missing shims, missing springs, doctor said I dislocate my shoulder, although its on way to recovery, and these flare nuts going nuts on me.

Reason I was changing these pads/lines is that I experience brake fade on my last(first time) event with walls ahead of me, but made it not crashed(braking from 100mph for 35mph turns).
Yeap, I don't want brake fails on me.

In that case, to open both flare nuts, I will have to damage them.
I can see how to replace the hard line by the caliper, easy. But how to replace the one goes to ABS? Do I need to open the fender and wheel well?

Thanks for the help guys... I searched, apparently no-one has posted this rounded flare nut question before.

Reza

 

If you haven't damaged any more nuts, use the tap-tap method that I mentioned above. Put the flare wrench on the nut, then tap on the handle in the direction to loosen it. Don't go overboard, it's easy to figure out how hard to tap it. The closer you to the nut you hit the wrench, the better, I've found. You don't want too much leverage, just the vibration to loosen the nut.

On fittings where you have two nuts in mid-line, don't use the tap-tap method. You need a fairly solid mount to use that method, like the nut you showed above. In this situation, use two flare wrenches, if you've got them, (if you don't, go buy another 10mm flare wrench) and position them fairly close together, then slowly squeeze them together, if you can, to break the nut loose.

It's easier to demonstrate than describe, but by no means difficult.

 

Vise-Grips might be your only option now. But they should work fine.

Another trick I use is to use a flare nut wrench AND use some Vise Grips to pinch the wrench onto the nut. Basically, the wrench is around the nut and then you apply the Vise Grips around that to hold the wrench tight on the nut.

-Max

 

I just buy all new parts and throw away the slightly used ones.

 

Yes, the hard lines only cost $12 from Mazdacomp, I am ordering them now.
Along with a caliper seal kit for rebuilt right?

Do I need to open the fender liner or fender to get the hard line from ABS to right front brake out?

Reza