(cIgnition Wiring Harness Improvement
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:06:51 -0600
From: "Westbrook, Chuck E." (CWestbrook@tmh.tmc.edu)

The ECU on passenger side sends the firing trigger pulses to the igniter on the drivers side. This can't be changed and doesn't need changing.

The problem is with the wiring from the igniter to the coils. The coils are only about 2 feet from the igniter. But, the wiring goes from the igniter back inside the car to the main engine harness by the ECU, out the right firewall, to the engine where the solenoids are, across the front of the engine, then back on the left side of the engine to the coils. The 2 feet distance is now about 8 feet of wire carrying pulsating DC which can emit EMF if not properly shielded. This excess length also increases the possibility of the wiring being damage and/or misfiring.

While reinstalling my engine, I decided to go for the direct 2 foot route. The short ignition coil harness was removed from the main harness and the three coil connectors were cut off. These were then rewired with shielded wire to go directly to the igniter. The igniter output wires were cut and connected to the new harness. While doing this, the primary igniter wires were also connected to an extra male/female connector that allows them to run normally or be connected to my Crain HI6R.

Currently while breaking in the new engine, the Crane is disconnected and all are working fine. I did all of this to insure that the coils received the best possible signals and to increase reliability.
olor codes).

Originally posted by lopedl
Thanks adam, but yes that is exactly why I want to do this mod, I have an ignition problem and am trying to cure it so rather than tracing 8 feet of wire wrapped around the engine I can barely fit my hand in, I figured this would be a simple solution, at the least it would allow me to fix the problem.

Originally posted by lopedl
Yeah I have done a test of the ignitor harness and it indicates that there is power, I have already replaced the ignitor 2wice so thats not my problem, I am certain the ecu is good because it powers everything else, the ignitors were tested at a local electric smith and came back operable. All fuses and plugs tested for voltage and ohmage, a-ok. I have traced as many wires as I am limited to without having to dissassemble everything (other than the entire intake assembly), so that is why I was interested in running it direct as a simple solution, plus the concept makes sense. No power whatsoever to the ignitors, and thats my problem. There were two small wires in the engine bay tested with 3v and 11v that were broke, but I don't believe they are the power supply to the ignitors. Two wires are solid black with different gauges, and one wire was black with a red stripe that leads to were I believe the crank angle sensors are which turns into black with a white stripe. So I am almost certain it is a break in the wires but I can't find the source. But, man if anyone could give me the key information that could get me running I would gladly send them $30 via paypal.