thanks that’s perfect, so very hot day and hot IAT it only increased 2C from a 3rd and 4th pull. Sounds like the cooler was working well at that pressure/power level.

 

Will see what happens…
Pretty poor looking fin density but will see what happens with some real testing.

 

The Greddy kit is supposed to use their Spec R core, with rolled pins instead of V fins. I think the intercooler type was quietly changed at some point. Anyone have an older Greddy core to compare?

 

@coupe-r Definitely make sure to report back here once you've tested the Greddy kit at your power level, I'm trying to make the same decision right now as well haha.

 

My kit arrived pretty quickly as well. Haven't had a chance to get started on it yet since I also want to update my AC to the JP rx8 retrofit.

 

That looks just like what I have, which has been in the car 5-6 years.

 

Will be testing this soon, just started fitting the PS line. First thing I noticed, moving the relay box to the front using the V2 method, the wires aren't REALLY long enough to do this properly. Unless you want the plastic wire loom bracket just hanging down loosely off the rad support.
Seems that's 'acceptable' by Greddy haha.

Also making you bend the crap out of the factory PS line tab on the LHS chassis rail.... Why not just make a bracket that actually positions the line correctly. Ah well, different ideas of whats acceptable eh.

For now this will prob be quick and dirty zip tie special to get it running before I pull the engine for panel/paint.

 

What hose did you use for the power steering return?

 

Im sorry for double posting, but what ps return hose did you use there?

 

Looks like the factory one but you can use any fuel/heater core rubber hose from your local store.

 

I had no trouble doing this for my Defined Auto V-mount. I just added a rivnut on the left side.

 

Its a JDM RHD, all factory rubber lines and the greddy supplied hardline.

No trouble indeed, but I see zip ties and the loom unclipped off the rad support/hanging down lower to give the slack needed. Even then its TIGHT.
Just not my idea of acceptable but it works for sure.

I'll likely end up unwrapping the loom and remove from that factory loom box, then re-wrap up the wires I need. It will allow those wires to hang lower while allowing the factory loom support to click back into the rad support.

For now mine is similar to yours except mine is moved over more to clear the horn (yours isn't fitted but would hit your relay box if it was)

 

oh it's a work in progress, lots of lose things that'll get tidied up in time. I replaced the horns with dual RX-8 ones located lower on both sides of the bumper main opening

 

hah sounds like mine.
But yeh u see what I mean by the main loom support just needs to hang/zip tie there to give the relay box wires enough slack to go around the bottom of the core support.
Hey its better than a relay box upside down like they used to recommend.

So far things I've noticed with the kit, the ducting is a WEAK attempt at best, gaps EVERYWHERE. Also not quite cut to the right size so it bends and sits off the radiator welds (I've seen the same issue in plenty of pictures online) So trimming is needed (Fair enough for mass production template vs how thick of a weld they gonna run on the rad.

Also making you drill a hole in the rad and zip tie on part of the ducting that will rattle around....
Why not just weld an extra threaded insert on the side of the rad?(there are already 2 welded threaded inserts on the greddy rad, if they welded a 3rd, it would have held the ducting at the top edge perfectly, rather than some "drill hole here zip tie" afterthought.

I think I'll weld an extra threaded insert. The zip tie method tie will hold the stock rad fans up a little off the rad under tension, and generally just a half *** approach.

I've not seem someone actually critic the kit before. I probably should do this once its all fitted and tested..
I still love how the rad fits with the stock fans though, but be prepared to improve things if you are fussy like me.
P.S I still don't feel the Greddy intercooler core is going to perform well at all.....
Stay tuned.

 

I still don’t understand why the Greddy core is a fin core. It should be their Spec R core, which is supposed to be a rolled pin core.

At some point Greddy must have swapped out the core type.

 

others commented saying they had there’s for past 6 years and it looks like mine. However on Greddys site notice sales pictures the core doesn’t have cast end tanks either. So who knows what they are up to…

unless someone can post a pic of a really old core, I’m gonna assume they always been like mine…

 

UPDATE on the install: More asthetic issues
My factory series 6 spot lights don't clear the lower radiator tank, I MIGHT be able to bend the brackets forward a bit (i'll try)
Aso the factory air guide doesn't fit on without hitting the radiator lower tank also
This sucks cause I bought a brand new series 6 bumper skin and wanted the air guide fitted to stop the bumper mouth flopping around and warping... (I assume u need to air guide for it to hold its shape, most bumpers I see are all warped in that area from people removing the guide)

I haven't seen anyone else comment that they needed to remove the air guide or spot light fitment issues.. (even the instructions don't mention removing the air guide or spotlights, its just assumed from the pictures I guess, also the pictures are a 99spec or series8)
Not an issue with a series 8 (99) bumper skin I guess..

Anyone comment on theirs? I have the radiator in the upper position of the lower mount brackets, so I might get 5-10mm more out of it, but I doubt that will be anywhere near letting me fit the air guide

@neit_jnf Did you use the 99 spec air guide, did you need to trim it to fit the relay box there? Im thinking I might modify the series 6 spec air guide and trim it up, looks like it keeps air from going into the factory bumper support/rebar area.

 

93 air guide and yes i trimmed it. it doesn't take much trimming to fit. I also trimmed a little to install a mesh screen for the bumper.

 

Thanks, yeh I might have to do the same, Its a real shame it doesn't seem to fit with the greddy radiator, if they used a core 20-30mm shorter it woulda been fine..., I'm worried my factory bumper mouth with wobble/warp without the support.

Note: Factory has foam around the edge of the air guide so it seals up against the factory bumper support.

 

FITMENT UPDATE: Trimmed the front of the Greddy radiator ducting back about 30-40mm to clear the factory series 6 spot lights, the spot light plastics still hit the radiator (JUST) but for now they fit (just under a bit of tension).
Also trimmed ducting to clear the welds on the radiator so the ducting sits flush against it (no gaps)
I've fitted the factory foam where instructed, however there are PLENTY of gaps I could fill with the left over foam (see pictures).

For now I've just thrown together some random piping I had for a hot side here, also pretty ghetto intake setup just to get it running. Unsure if turbo outlet it will clear the hood for testing.
Also quick and dirty jumper leads running to battery on passenger floor to get the car running.

TESTING UPDATE NO HOOD (bonnet): A 3rd gear pull on the FACTORY INTERCOOLER on a 15C day 16psi pull would increase temp from 25-60C from one 2000-8000rpm pull!! minimal wheel spin..
Greddy testing on the same temp day same 3rd gear pull same boost, temps increase 0C!! 25C to 25C end of pull (with fast IAT) however hook into 4th gear and KEEP pulling temps rose to 28-29C. (sustained pull all of 3rd and up to 6500rpm in 4th)
Wheel spin in 3rd and 4th, also leaner air fuel (10.8-11.2 before now 11.2-11.5) so its making more power for sure, (my IAT vs fuel needs adjusting and fuel trimmed up a bit)

I expect once the factory bonnet/hood is fitted it will get worse, also throw some summer temps at it worse again.
Summary: So far looking very good considering the size of the core and number of fins internally. However its currently also cheating with no bonnet.

I can't test for higher boost safely with the current setup unless I get some new sticky bigger rubber. (this is on very old cheap and nasty 225/50/17) Its a death trap currently, it just wants to swap ends soon as boost hits now (alignment will be out, shocks old and stuffed no doubt, rubber is HORRID and too small)

Might throw it back on the dyno soon with some R7420 10.5-11 plugs and turn it up 18-20psi or when I run out of injector or the factory block says no more! (I'm sure it will be fine)

Before trimming ducting


After trimming




Lots of air gaps to seal up (not done yet)

 

High boost stock Hood update:
Fitted the stock hood and more road testing at 18psi with a S362 SX-E. On about a 20C day, starting temps of 30C IAT ending at 39C but only took it to 6400rpm. I expect a FULL 3rd or 4th gear pull would increase IAT 15C over ambient at least (maybe even 20).
So using this setup on a race car in a hot country with a stock hood prob is a no go. Fine for a road car with the occasional pull.

Dyno testing this Saturday with 18-20psi pulls, hoping to see around 450hp area. I expect intake temps will be much worse, but hopefully still under control to make some high boost pulls. (yes we have lots of high cfm high flow fans)
Will hit it straight at 18psi before it heat soaks too much, then 20psi.

Note: this is with stock 550cc primaries and Bosch 1550cc secondaries, AEM 340lph pump, 3 bar base pressure, with front fusebox rewire for more voltage and bypassed fuel pump resistor, stock fuel filter and lines.
At 16-18 psi last time we saw ZERO fuel pressure drop but injector duty is getting high, 85-90%

So that will also be a potential imitation (if intake temps aren't)

 

I would remove that shield you have over the hole under the air filter and remove the driving lights, and let more fresh air into it.

P

 

I want to run the spot lights, they don't block any IC core flow, but yes they little bit block air filter duct flow and rad flow though. Coolant temps are not a problem on the car (even with the STOCK rad they weren't a problem cause its a street car not race car)
The shield you see stops hot A/C condenser air hitting the filter, also there is a ducted air straight to the filter.

This setup is FAR from the final product, final will have more holes/gaps blocked off, filter in a better place with a 4" pipe and airbox.

This is step 1 just get it running stage, that's why it looks so ghetto.

 

Do you not have a front lip? If you aren’t going to use water injection and/or a vented hood, maybe a bit of front aero would help suck hot air out of the bottom of the engine bay…

 

Yes I have a brand new bumper and lip to go on once panel and paint starts.
No aero on the dyno anyways However the bonnet will be up for the runs

Street temps are always different to dyno, but yes I can only improve on the setup that is there.(seal up gaps etc) This is just to give everyone an idea of how it performs out of the box.