The engine was stock, but the car was stripped out and there were probably a lot of things done behind the scenes.
E.g. the suspension was professionally set up for the track.
I would be surprised if they didn't tune the computer (being HKS and all). It also had a mechanical LSD, big brakes, etc, etc.

It is still pretty hard to go under a minute.

I hope to take my FD there at some point. I've only ever done one track day at Tsukuba, and it was with a blown engine...

 

Tsukuba circuit is really a test of a cars handling balance and finess for non aero cars and then trying to combine that balance plus downforce and brute power for the aero cars (not easy).

I mean, cars with even a hint of understeer are dogwater slow on Tsukuba. Cars like R35 GTRs, Porsches or any hypercar dont make top 100 list.

 

If it was a replica, they'd probably say it was a replica. FEED builds quite a few replicas of their "Maoh-go" demo car.

The Furinkazan FD is indeed stock twins.

The car is listed as having a "special" RE-A V-mount ("levelman" is short for "level (meaning horizontal) mount"), so it stands to reason that it's not the same as the off-the-shelf kit they sell.

Similarly, the HKS GR86 has a "special" (SPL) version of their latest Hipermax coilovers.

Back on topic, my friend has the Greddy V-mount. He only has 400 hp or so (not sure if it's wheel or flywheel). He did end up going with a vented hood after years of avoiding it, though. That said, the car sees serious track use.
IATs must not be an issue, even with A/C, since he doesn't even bother logging them...

 

Generally my IATs with my Greddy VMIC are close to ambient and I live in hot and humid Florida. I don't have a vented hood and during most driving around my water temps are around 79-82C.

 

Do you have a fast IAT, else its hiding the real temps.
Whats your temps from a 3rd gear pull from 2000 to redline, start temp finish temp. Thats a test of how the core is cooling, cheers for your feedback.

Thats not exactly a GOOD model to base ya vmount setup off haha, there is no way thats doing 56 seconds id say. (as confirmed later)

I tagged em earlier in this post but no reply, I could try contact them directly but it will all depend if they remember the temps or kept any logs...
From what I'm reading I doubt they will reply....


I contacted @RGHTBrainDesign directly and he said the greddy core is a terrible unit and cools worse than a cheap ebay item.
I'm currently in talks with PWR on a custom tube and fin core.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo

you sure about that?

 

haha nah I wasn't, I thought it was confirmed above that the car didn't do a 56 it was another one. Your vid it certainly looks like the same car to me. Based off stock twins at just under 400hp, and a 500hp GT3RS with a way quicker box, better ratios doing a 59, BUT I underestimated that the FD is only 950kg haha. Impressive. Thats 500kg lighter!

Hey but back on track ppl, where is the data for Greddy vmount with single turbo :P

 

Yes I have a fast acting IAT sensor.

I'd have to pull a log that I did recently, but IIRC it didn't jump. I'm on the factory twins at ~12 psi.

 

From my experience with Greddy cores is they cool just as good as any other name brand, I believe the core used in the v-mount kit is tube and fin IIRC. I don't see why this core would be any different. I don't have personal experience with this particular Greddy kit but I'm guessing people making these claims either or want to sell you something they will make more money on or they don't have experience with them with any data to back up claims or possibly installation/setup issues. I think proper air flow getting to the intercooler is probably more important than the core, maybe some people don't understand this concept? You can have the most efficient core on the planet, if it doesn't have cooler air to transfer the heat to, it is not going to work as intended. The Greddy kit is a pretty popular one and this is the first I've heard of it being "worse than a cheap ebay item."

 

Yes it’s tube and fin, not all cores are created equal that’s for sure. The more you look into core design and tech you start to realise how one core can be total junk vs another of the same size.

He certainly didn’t want to sell me anything, it was one tuner talking to another

Agreed regarding data, we are at 58+ posts and no one yet has been able to confirm or deny with logs what the performance of the greddy core is like with single turbo on 400-500hp

In fact the only ones to comment so far have been people on stock twins on low boost. However I’ve had two people mention to me how it’s less than ideal on a single turbo setup on 400-500hp.

but again I was after another opinion with proof…

The amount of posts I see on Facebook of shops tuning a greddy core on a single turbo, I thought my question would be a simple one…
seems not :/

 

Agreed, I'm surprised Ryan doesn't have gobs of data if he made that claim though. You would think he would have all the logs from his tunes. Maybe Ihor may have some insight with data?. If the Greddy tube and fine core is the same as I have used with their front mounts in the past, it is pretty efficient and I never had issues with them on high HP Supras.

 

Agreed... my Supra runs a GReddy FMIC and it after hard pulls still holds very close to ambient temps. I rarely see any spiking on my IATs. I run a Haltech Elite 2500 and have a ~550-600rwhp setup on the Supra.

 

This guy is a clown who is in love with himself. Are you sure that you want to take advice from a guy who hasn't had a running car of his own for years and overwhelmingly remote tunes cars? He isn't in full control of the environmental factors around the cars he tunes.

The Greddy v-mount is a more than adequate option for a 450hp car and it gets better with tighter ducting. I think it's safe to assume that there are more of them installed than any other intercooler offering in the current market, they're not blowing up engines from high IAT's

 

It was a sales pitch for when he was trying to sell pre-orders for the intercooler kits he had no testing data, designs, or sketches for that still have not come to fruition. He promised them in December or January 2024 and his posts were all deleted by him or buried, he deletes or edits his own Facebook posts all the time to make it look like he's on top and makes no mistakes. Snake oil.

 

The narcism runs deep with that guy. He belittles and tries to discredit and put anyone down who doesn't drink the cool aid.

The Facebook thread where he and Rob Dahm got into it was hilarious. He criticized Rob for testing and trying things that he even Rob himself thinks won't work just to see what it does and to learn and share his findings with the community. Rob also constantly tears down his engines to see failure modes and results from testing various things. Meanwhile, (NoBrainDesigns) Ryan admits he's self-taught by learning from tuning other people's cars. It doesn't appear that he builds engines or has ever torn one down that he's tuned. In the tuning business, it's all too easy to point blame at a "bad engine build" when the tuner made a mistake and blew up the engine. But I have to say, Ryan does have a decent cult-like following.

 

I too have been wondering the same. I'm running an IWG 8374 on pump with about the same hp goals and have been looking for some data or personal experience with the greddy v-mount. I see this recommended everywhere (except on one of Ryan's FB posts/comments), but haven't found any #s for or against... so I just decided to pull the trigger last night and order one anyway. My current setup is cooled with a factory-position koyo + a ducted Pettit Cool charge III, so I'm assuming that it'll still be a noticeable improvement.

 

I'm glad somebody said it.

 

and yet no one has yet posted ACTUAL data from a 400-500hp single turbo setup.

:/

No I’m not taking one persons opinion or experience unless I see the data

However if you look up the Greddy core specs at 450hp or 700-800 CFM it prob is under cored and also apples and oranges comparing a same design core in the front mounted position.

in getting to the point I might just buy it, and ACTUALLY report back real data so others have an answer also…

I mean I don’t have turbo outlet temps, but I can show IAT temps before and after a pull, which really once u know your ambient temps, my turbo used and boost pressure/power level. More data doesn’t really help anyways.

I don’t think you will see significant (or any) better IAT going from a ducted petite charge 3 vs greddy vmount. I could be wrong tho…

will be interesting to hear your results.

 

I'd have to dig up the data, but i have the IC on a 500hp setup. I also track the car on lower boost (still more than 400hp) without issue. I don't see significant IAT spikes on high boost pulls. No doubt it could be improved but I think you're overthinking it.

 

that would be great if you can get some logs for me. What turbo and boost pressure, fast IAT sensor used?

The reason I’m worried about it is I’ve had one dyno shop, one owner and also Ryan say it isn’t up to the task. But no data to backup that claim.

This is only a street car so if it works well enough I’ll go with it.
cheers

 

I measured my Pettit intercooler yesterday and the core is 1" wider, 1" longer, 0.73" thinner than the greddy unit, so theoretically you're probably right in that the intercooler itself may cool slightly better (or equal) to the greddy core. However, the radiator exhausts right into the underside of the intercooler and duct. I'll run some datalogs while I wait for the greddy v-mount so that I'll have a baseline comparison.

I thought about ordering just the Greddy v-layout radiator only kit and modifying my current intercooler to work as a V-mount, but the price difference of receiving a complete kit that will just work as-is seemed worth it.

 

Yeh the radiator should hit the DUCT though not the intercooler, but yes the rad still heats the engine bay.

Yes I also was going to get the radiator only kit, but the price difference isn't worth it, its only $1000NZD more for me and that comes with these extras: intake elbow (already have) Intercooler, cold side pipe, intake ducting, fuse box brackets, few other things the rad only kit doesn't come with.

 

I'd you want to get rid of the extra elbow and are happy to post to Aus let me know.

 

Yup i'll be selling it, (they are pretty easy to buy though and not crazy money) It's only been used for a few dyno pulls plus I have the greddy box for it etc.

 

Really? I gave you a path for you to get exactly what you are looking for. A car that has the mods you're asking about, a Dyno plot to prove the numbers are what you are asking about, and a name to the very reputable shop that did the work that can ANSWER your questions.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post12602353

P.S. Given all the variations of available mods for these cars, it is a very tall order to have an exact setup that you are looking for nevermind WITH data. So let's keep that in perspective when you say that no one has provided info.
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I 100% respect that. That is why I didn't elaborate on my setup. I have a GT35R, 15psi, with a greddy vmount. My AIT's are on point but I don't have the setup that you are asking about, any data, nor am I at 450RWHP. More like 400RWHP.

Interesting, one would think the dyno shop would have data.