xblazinlv

Well I got the engine in and started it up.....it started right up but it is idling pretty crummy and at points will hit 300 rpms or so at idle and sound like it's going to die. If I engage the clutch sometimes it will die.


Also, my heater isn't working anymore, nor is my speedometer.


I also threw two engine codes.....


5, 10, 50

5 Knock sensor


10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM) (not sure where this is)

50 is the code for Solenoid valve - double throttle control - not sure what to do about this or what is wrong.


If anyone can help me out with these issues I would greatly appreciate it. Beyond that, it looks good.

NCMontegott

iTrader: (5)

when you put coolant in the car did you turn your heater on to high to circulate coolant through the heater core?

The speedo is electrical so check your fuses and possibly a missed connector some where.

did you check to see if your map sensor was connected to the intake?? if its not the car will run like sh@t

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Check to make sure the wire has continuity and that the connector is seated properly. This code will put the car into limp mode and make it idle like crap.

This is the sensor plugged into the UIM from the bottom. Make sure you have it plugged in. This code will also make the car run like crap.

Make sure that the connector is plugged into the solenoid or that you bypassed it with a proper resistor. It the one closes to the front of the car on the bottom of the solenoid rack.

xblazinlv

It's weird, I actually hard wired this in because the connector clip broke, so it should have a good reading. I'll have to use an OHM test and see if it actually worked or not. If not, the sensor could possibly be bad (I hope not)

Are there any good websites to get a new knock sensor from online? I didn't see one listed on mazdatrix


I'll check this when the manifold is off for the solenoid



I have an extra solenoid I can replace it with no problem....just have to pull the upper manifold.

xblazinlv

I did not run the heater when I was putting coolant into the car....could that be the problem? I know now that I circulated the coolant by starting the car, I need to add more (which I will do today)


Beyond that, I'm not sure why it would have little heat unless the heater core is clogged.


Also, I checked the sensors on the transmission and all of them are intact, I have no idea why the speedo won't work.

xblazinlv

OK I reset my ECU and now I'm only throwing a code for the knock sensor....I'm not sure why the other codes are not setting anymore, but I let it run for 40 minutes and only the knock sensor was thrown.


How sensitive are these knock sensors? Could the sound of the exhaust leak set it off?

I'm going to check for connectivity today to make sure it is getting a reading at the ECU via an OHM test.... but if it is getting a reading, what would this mean?

xblazinlv

Well the other two codes have not set again, I'll watch for them

The knock sensor code is there, and I OHM tested the wire, it is getting a reading from the wire to the pin connector at the ECU, so that must mean the knock sensor is bad correct?

Where do you guys get OEM knock sensors from? Any help would be appreciated

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

They aren't cheap, but Ray at Malloy Mazda can get you one.

xblazinlv

How much is not cheap? LOL....that doesn't sound good

Would it be better to just buy a PowerFC? I read they don't use a knock sensor reading for anything other than display...


I have to get the vehicle emissions tested so I'm trying to get all of this sorted out so I can get it to pass smog and register it now that I finally have it running again.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I believe they are around $150-175. Still cheaper than the PFC.

IMO, the PFC is the wrong way to fix this problem, but, it's up to you as to how you spend your money. Talk to Ray. He can even overnight the part (of course you'll pay for the shipping) if you need it immediately.

xblazinlv

That's not too bad, I was expecting you to say like $500 lol.


I might just pick one up then, as I'm not ready to go to the PFC just yet. I just want to get this thing close to stock condition and break it in, enjoy the car a bit, then I'll lay down $$ for extra performance later on.

It sucks, I still haven't been able to drive this car, and I've had it since November. It's depressing, and I still haven't been able to feel how fast it is stock.

I guess I won't either since I have an intake and downpipe on it now, but oh well I'm willing to work with that lol

Thanks again for your help, hopefully those other two codes don't come back.

If the double throttle code comes back again, does that mean the solenoid needs to be replaced?

xblazinlv

Weird.....I reset the ECU a few minutes ago and I also messed with the wires that go to the knock sensor (when I did the OHM test) and I started the car, let it run for 15 minutes, and no engine lights, not even the knock sensor which was illuminating within a few seconds of starting the car everytime I would clear the ECU.


Do you think it could have possibly been a bad connection that I somehow jolted when I messed with the connection at the knock sensor?

The other two codes still have not illuminated.... I'm getting closer to being able to drive this thing, just have to bleed the clutch and fix the speed sensor on the transmission and I can take it out for a spin.

weetbix13

you're getting there mate, soldier on!
i spent 2 years fixing mine before i really got to drive her... it's a good feeling of success when it goes.

just bear in mind, odds on there'll be some teething issues: maybe a turbo coolant hose has scored a tiny leak, maybe the boost pattern won't be quite right - but it'll be worth it!

i had a TPS issue that gave me ALL SORTS of problems... fixed now and runs like a charm, only faster.