good autocross setup??
12-22-01, 02:59 AM
#3
Rotard
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- Hoosier autocross tires
- Koni adjustable dampers
- Ground Control coil-overs with Eibach springs
- Volk TE-37 wheels
- Down pipe, Resonated Mid pipe, GReddy Power Extreme, or RB muffler (something to add a little backpressure)
- Pettit, M2, or any other true cold air induction system
- Intercooler sprayers (upgraded IC helps too if you have the $)
- Radiator sprayers (Upgraded Radiator if you plan to race for long periods of time or in hot weather)
- Bonez High performance brake pads
- Keep the stock brake rotors (slots and holes take away from friction, which you need to heat up your pads quickly)
- take out your passenger seat, spare tire, and anything else that you can unskrew or unbolt.
- Polyurethane or Vinyl bushings
- A'PEXi Power FC ECU upgrade (boost control, timing control, air/fuel control)
- Sreet Port and 3mm seals
- M2 upgraded Ball Bearing Twin Turbos
- GReddy aluminum intake arm with extra injectors
- and race with only 1/6 of a tank of gas, so there is not a large transfer of weight when you take turns sharp----any weight transfer will make the back end want to kick out.
WITH THAT SET-UP YOU WILL BE UNSTOPABLE!
(Oh, and that is also my christmas list, minus the mods I already have)
Hope that Helps, Kevin (KEMRX7@aol.com / KEMRX7---->AIM)
- Koni adjustable dampers
- Ground Control coil-overs with Eibach springs
- Volk TE-37 wheels
- Down pipe, Resonated Mid pipe, GReddy Power Extreme, or RB muffler (something to add a little backpressure)
- Pettit, M2, or any other true cold air induction system
- Intercooler sprayers (upgraded IC helps too if you have the $)
- Radiator sprayers (Upgraded Radiator if you plan to race for long periods of time or in hot weather)
- Bonez High performance brake pads
- Keep the stock brake rotors (slots and holes take away from friction, which you need to heat up your pads quickly)
- take out your passenger seat, spare tire, and anything else that you can unskrew or unbolt.
- Polyurethane or Vinyl bushings
- A'PEXi Power FC ECU upgrade (boost control, timing control, air/fuel control)
- Sreet Port and 3mm seals
- M2 upgraded Ball Bearing Twin Turbos
- GReddy aluminum intake arm with extra injectors
- and race with only 1/6 of a tank of gas, so there is not a large transfer of weight when you take turns sharp----any weight transfer will make the back end want to kick out.
WITH THAT SET-UP YOU WILL BE UNSTOPABLE!
(Oh, and that is also my christmas list, minus the mods I already have)
Hope that Helps, Kevin (KEMRX7@aol.com / KEMRX7---->AIM)
12-22-01, 09:49 AM
#5
Lives on the Forum
cheat like a ******
buy an R1, cut your stock springs, upgrade your sway bars and paint them black, hollow out your cats, replace stock catback with Apexi duals, install a K&N with RB intake duct, install billet flywheel, street port your motor, install ball-bearing turbos (along with requisite fuel and ECU upgrade), install quarter-inch wheel spacers for your stock wheels, mount 245/45-16 Hoosier A3S03s, replace brakelines with steel braided versions, use Hawk HP Plus pads, get a good set of 4-point harnesses and a Bell M3 SA2000 helmet--AND CLEAN HOUSE IN SCCA'S SOLO II SUPER STOCK CATEGORY!
See you at the Nationals!
See you at the Nationals!
12-22-01, 12:47 PM
#7
Senior Member
Chadwick is right about being knocked out of any competitive classes....
Here's my suggestion:
Stock FD: Stay stock and run in Super Stock and get some Kumho or Hoosier Autocross Tires.
Modified FD: Worry about suspension and wheels/tires first. The rx-7 already has more than enough power for 95% of courses. Upgraded shock and springs....wider wheels....17x10" all around. Auto-x Tires. Upgraded front sway bar from M2 or Tripoint. Exhaust....Intake,downpipe,IC....computer is tricky because ASP rules are very unfriendly to RX-7's. Most likely people won't car on a local level though. NO boost controller which would take you into a higher class.
Just remember Auto-x is 95% driver so worry about the car last. It's also all about stickiness not power.
~Alex
Here's my suggestion:
Stock FD: Stay stock and run in Super Stock and get some Kumho or Hoosier Autocross Tires.
Modified FD: Worry about suspension and wheels/tires first. The rx-7 already has more than enough power for 95% of courses. Upgraded shock and springs....wider wheels....17x10" all around. Auto-x Tires. Upgraded front sway bar from M2 or Tripoint. Exhaust....Intake,downpipe,IC....computer is tricky because ASP rules are very unfriendly to RX-7's. Most likely people won't car on a local level though. NO boost controller which would take you into a higher class.
Just remember Auto-x is 95% driver so worry about the car last. It's also all about stickiness not power.
~Alex
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12-22-01, 01:09 PM
#8
Need to fill your tank!
You might run into fuel pick up problems if you run less than 1/2 tank of gas.
Violent turns cause the fuel to slosh all over the place. My car cutout & coughed during one event. I talked to M2 Brian & he said it was common problem with low fuel qty.
Anyone else notice this?
The tires are the most important link. Then driver ability. The car has more than enough power & suspension for stock class. It just takes skill to use it all.
Pick up a stock rims & buy some 245-45-16 cross tires. Then start practicing. Good luck & have fun.
Violent turns cause the fuel to slosh all over the place. My car cutout & coughed during one event. I talked to M2 Brian & he said it was common problem with low fuel qty.
Anyone else notice this?
The tires are the most important link. Then driver ability. The car has more than enough power & suspension for stock class. It just takes skill to use it all.
Pick up a stock rims & buy some 245-45-16 cross tires. Then start practicing. Good luck & have fun.
12-22-01, 01:49 PM
#9
Lives on the Forum
dan and sled
Take it easy Dan, that was just a tongue-in-cheek post, regarding the amount of cheating that goes on in the stock classes at my local level
To their credit, most people don't care until you start winning every time.
On a serious note, I do agree with sled man on the fuel tank issue. I experience this at the high-speed road racing courses, so I try not to run with anything less than half-a-tank. Gas mileage on a high speed track is bewteen 5-6 miles/gallon, so a half-tank is only good for ~10 laps out at Putnam Park (1.77 miles/lap), until fuel cut-out starts.
As for autocrossing goes, I would say it's driver skill first, then tires, then preparation. Personally, I suck-*** autocrossing, but do very well on a high-speed circuit.
To their credit, most people don't care until you start winning every time. On a serious note, I do agree with sled man on the fuel tank issue. I experience this at the high-speed road racing courses, so I try not to run with anything less than half-a-tank. Gas mileage on a high speed track is bewteen 5-6 miles/gallon, so a half-tank is only good for ~10 laps out at Putnam Park (1.77 miles/lap), until fuel cut-out starts.
As for autocrossing goes, I would say it's driver skill first, then tires, then preparation. Personally, I suck-*** autocrossing, but do very well on a high-speed circuit.
Last edited by SleepR1; 12-22-01 at 01:51 PM.
12-22-01, 03:01 PM
#11
Lives on the Forum
Check your local rules. If they go by SCCA, all you can do to run in Super Stock is a catback, shocks, race tires, brake pads and the front sway bar. Alignment is of course free as well.
The fuel pickup problem is normal; keep half a tank in it.
The fuel pickup problem is normal; keep half a tank in it.
12-22-01, 03:20 PM
#12
Senior Member
I heard from my mechanic that 94 and 95 models have a different fuel tank will better protection from fuel starvation during turns etc. I think I've autocrossed with about a 1/4 tank and not had any problems. I suppose you could switch tanks for the same thing.
12-22-01, 03:42 PM
#13
SleeperR1, didn’t see anything in your post to suggest you where joking around, it is common to use an emote like 
, :p or 
when you are joking so that people will see you are being humorous. No harm, no foul .
Fuel starvation is a problem with all model years for the FD3S, anytime you start pulling over 1g while turning left with a half of tank or less. Upgrading the fuel pump will not solve the problem unless you use a different pickup.
If you are not fuel starving with a half of tank, you are not going fast enough !!!
, :p or when you are joking so that people will see you are being humorous. No harm, no foul . Fuel starvation is a problem with all model years for the FD3S, anytime you start pulling over 1g while turning left with a half of tank or less. Upgrading the fuel pump will not solve the problem unless you use a different pickup.
If you are not fuel starving with a half of tank, you are not going fast enough !!!
12-22-01, 04:58 PM
#14
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fuel starving
I disagree with the above post, where are you getting your information?
I have a 94 that was not getting fuel on hard
turns at 1/2 tank and below. After replacing stock fuel pump with the supra tt fuel pump no more problems until about 1/4 tank and even then not nearly as bad as with a half tank using the stock pump.
I have a 94 that was not getting fuel on hard
turns at 1/2 tank and below. After replacing stock fuel pump with the supra tt fuel pump no more problems until about 1/4 tank and even then not nearly as bad as with a half tank using the stock pump.
12-22-01, 05:26 PM
#15
Where did I get my information? Hmmm…racing and taking to many others that race RX7s.
Pickup location and not the fuel pump its self causes fuel starvation unless of course you have a faulty pump that is shorting out or something. If there is no gas at the pickup, it doesn’t mater how good the fuel pump is at pumping fuel. The Rx7 suffers from a lack of baffles in the tank, which allows all the gas to move to one side very quickly. I personally didn’t think my car had the problem, that was until I started pulling sustained 1.3 lateral G’s in the corners.
Dan
Pickup location and not the fuel pump its self causes fuel starvation unless of course you have a faulty pump that is shorting out or something. If there is no gas at the pickup, it doesn’t mater how good the fuel pump is at pumping fuel. The Rx7 suffers from a lack of baffles in the tank, which allows all the gas to move to one side very quickly. I personally didn’t think my car had the problem, that was until I started pulling sustained 1.3 lateral G’s in the corners.
Dan
12-22-01, 05:55 PM
#17
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fuel starvation
I guess I had a fuel pump problem you seem much more expierienced than I. I didn't Know a rx7 could stay on line at 1.3gs I thought 1g was pretty damn good. My car has baffles in the tank and my fuel pump is very close to bottom of my baffle.
12-23-01, 10:17 AM
#23
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally posted by Chadwick
I was not having a fuel problem per say, was just making sure that the fuel system was not a weak leak. Last thing you want is to run lean with a rotary.
Dan
I was not having a fuel problem per say, was just making sure that the fuel system was not a weak leak. Last thing you want is to run lean with a rotary.
Dan
Ditto.
the_saint
12-23-01, 10:44 AM
#24
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Fuel pump
Well thats good enough for me I definately just had a faulty fuel pump. Thanks for answering all my questions and have a merry X-mas. chatwick keep pulling those G
#s and good luck racing.
#s and good luck racing.
12-23-01, 10:25 PM
#25
mythical Unicorn
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Re: fuel cut during autocross
Originally posted by rotarhead
Definately a problem but if you upgrade your
fuel pump you can toss her around with as little as 1/4 tank.
Definately a problem but if you upgrade your
fuel pump you can toss her around with as little as 1/4 tank.