good autocross setup??
#26
The Anti-Prius
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IM using a Cosmo pump from SR Motorsports. Didn't help, my car cutout with 1/4 tank of gas at the track.
Like the previous post stated, just changing the pump wont help.
The reason I changed mine was due to the mods I have. I didn't want to run into fuel starvation problems due to low flow rate.
If you bump your H.P. up the stock pump could be a weak link.
Mazda designed the fuel & cooling systems close to the max. When you change things you find out how inadequate they are for moded cars.
Like the previous post stated, just changing the pump wont help.
The reason I changed mine was due to the mods I have. I didn't want to run into fuel starvation problems due to low flow rate.
If you bump your H.P. up the stock pump could be a weak link.
Mazda designed the fuel & cooling systems close to the max. When you change things you find out how inadequate they are for moded cars.
#27
mythical Unicorn
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Fuel Pump
I will be upgrading my pump for the 2002 racing season. I have not had a problem with starvation however I do like the idea of added safety.
I anticipate I will need a pump that sits farther down into the gas tank or make something. My concern is fuel starvation.
I have noticed starvation in autocross with less than 3/4 tank. At thunderhill I was down to 1/4 and it was ok. However in autocrossing it starves much easier due to the sharper corners.
Thanks for your response. I was hoping you new of a pump that reached down further into the tank. I will check out the cosmo pump prior to purchasing anything.
Thanks
Spank
I anticipate I will need a pump that sits farther down into the gas tank or make something. My concern is fuel starvation.
I have noticed starvation in autocross with less than 3/4 tank. At thunderhill I was down to 1/4 and it was ok. However in autocrossing it starves much easier due to the sharper corners.
Thanks for your response. I was hoping you new of a pump that reached down further into the tank. I will check out the cosmo pump prior to purchasing anything.
Thanks
Spank
#28
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Fuel Level
Originally posted by Red95T-Rex
- Hoosier autocross tires
- Koni adjustable dampers
- Ground Control coil-overs with Eibach springs
- Volk TE-37 wheels
- Down pipe, Resonated Mid pipe, GReddy Power Extreme, or RB muffler (something to add a little backpressure)
- Pettit, M2, or any other true cold air induction system
- Intercooler sprayers (upgraded IC helps too if you have the $)
- Radiator sprayers (Upgraded Radiator if you plan to race for long periods of time or in hot weather)
- Bonez High performance brake pads
- Keep the stock brake rotors (slots and holes take away from friction, which you need to heat up your pads quickly)
- take out your passenger seat, spare tire, and anything else that you can unskrew or unbolt.
- Polyurethane or Vinyl bushings
- A'PEXi Power FC ECU upgrade (boost control, timing control, air/fuel control)
- Sreet Port and 3mm seals
- M2 upgraded Ball Bearing Twin Turbos
- GReddy aluminum intake arm with extra injectors
- and race with only 1/6 of a tank of gas, so there is not a large transfer of weight when you take turns sharp----any weight transfer will make the back end want to kick out.
WITH THAT SET-UP YOU WILL BE UNSTOPABLE!
(Oh, and that is also my christmas list, minus the mods I already have)
Hope that Helps, Kevin (KEMRX7@aol.com / KEMRX7---->AIM)
- Hoosier autocross tires
- Koni adjustable dampers
- Ground Control coil-overs with Eibach springs
- Volk TE-37 wheels
- Down pipe, Resonated Mid pipe, GReddy Power Extreme, or RB muffler (something to add a little backpressure)
- Pettit, M2, or any other true cold air induction system
- Intercooler sprayers (upgraded IC helps too if you have the $)
- Radiator sprayers (Upgraded Radiator if you plan to race for long periods of time or in hot weather)
- Bonez High performance brake pads
- Keep the stock brake rotors (slots and holes take away from friction, which you need to heat up your pads quickly)
- take out your passenger seat, spare tire, and anything else that you can unskrew or unbolt.
- Polyurethane or Vinyl bushings
- A'PEXi Power FC ECU upgrade (boost control, timing control, air/fuel control)
- Sreet Port and 3mm seals
- M2 upgraded Ball Bearing Twin Turbos
- GReddy aluminum intake arm with extra injectors
- and race with only 1/6 of a tank of gas, so there is not a large transfer of weight when you take turns sharp----any weight transfer will make the back end want to kick out.
WITH THAT SET-UP YOU WILL BE UNSTOPABLE!
(Oh, and that is also my christmas list, minus the mods I already have)
Hope that Helps, Kevin (KEMRX7@aol.com / KEMRX7---->AIM)
#29
mythical Unicorn
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Re: fuel starving
Originally posted by rotarhead
I disagree with the above post, where are you getting your information?
I have a 94 that was not getting fuel on hard
turns at 1/2 tank and below. After replacing stock fuel pump with the supra tt fuel pump no more problems until about 1/4 tank and even then not nearly as bad as with a half tank using the stock pump.
I disagree with the above post, where are you getting your information?
I have a 94 that was not getting fuel on hard
turns at 1/2 tank and below. After replacing stock fuel pump with the supra tt fuel pump no more problems until about 1/4 tank and even then not nearly as bad as with a half tank using the stock pump.
Your statement tells us how fast you are going!
Don't get pissed, just pointing out a fact!
#30
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As far as the starvation goes, lower the pickup if you can(whether you get a new pump or not).
As far as AutoX setups go, I've been doing some research myself.
First of all, forget about Super Stock, unless you're out there just to have fun because there's now way you can seriously compete against a 405HP Z06 vette.
Second, decide how much money you want to spend. To be in a competetive class and not blow a whole lot of money, ASP is your place. But that means there's a whole lot of things you can't mess with. The biggest one you can't mess with is BOOST!!! I've gotten some suggestions from AutoXers that won nationals in a FD. Shocks, go with double adjustable konis(from tripoint I think). Tripoint makes the sway bars of choice as well. I forget what the choice is for ASP but call them and they'll tell you. Exhaust, forget those fancy catback systems, 3" straight is the way to go. Breaths the best, weighs the least, and it even sounds good. I got mine done for $150 and it was worth every cent. Hoosiers are great, but super expensive. Kumhos are a whole lot cheaper but not as sticky. 17" rims are probably the way to go to keep things light. And don't forget the alignment!!!
For some more money, and the ability to mess with all the boost you want, the new SM2 is your place. In street mod, you can do almost anything. You can even throw in a 3 rotor I think(any motor that was made from the same manufacturer). Stick with a sequential turbo setup. Single turbo will kill you in AutoX.
SM2 is where I'm planning on going eventually but I'm going to work my way up. See you at the track.
As far as AutoX setups go, I've been doing some research myself.
First of all, forget about Super Stock, unless you're out there just to have fun because there's now way you can seriously compete against a 405HP Z06 vette.
Second, decide how much money you want to spend. To be in a competetive class and not blow a whole lot of money, ASP is your place. But that means there's a whole lot of things you can't mess with. The biggest one you can't mess with is BOOST!!! I've gotten some suggestions from AutoXers that won nationals in a FD. Shocks, go with double adjustable konis(from tripoint I think). Tripoint makes the sway bars of choice as well. I forget what the choice is for ASP but call them and they'll tell you. Exhaust, forget those fancy catback systems, 3" straight is the way to go. Breaths the best, weighs the least, and it even sounds good. I got mine done for $150 and it was worth every cent. Hoosiers are great, but super expensive. Kumhos are a whole lot cheaper but not as sticky. 17" rims are probably the way to go to keep things light. And don't forget the alignment!!!
For some more money, and the ability to mess with all the boost you want, the new SM2 is your place. In street mod, you can do almost anything. You can even throw in a 3 rotor I think(any motor that was made from the same manufacturer). Stick with a sequential turbo setup. Single turbo will kill you in AutoX.
SM2 is where I'm planning on going eventually but I'm going to work my way up. See you at the track.
#31
Do it right, do it once
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It is hard to say what mods you need to make the FD a beast auto-xer. There are so many posers out there modding the hell out of the cars and still getting beat by Neons, average drivers in Neons.
If you have any sort of budget, stay with stock wheels with R-compound tires. Hoosiers seem to be the fastest, but Kuhmo V700s aren't far behind, they last longer and cost about 40% less. This combo is really more than just about anyone can handle. If your losing by .2 sec then the Hoosiers will give you the edge. If your losing by 2 sec, then you need to learn to drive.
The FD is really a monster on the course in stock form. Of course we all know the C5 Vette (Z06 and std version) are faster. The C5 knocked the FD out of the trophies nationally before the Z06 came out. So besides the fact that you won't beat a good C5 driver I'd suggest ASP. Do the bolt on mods, play with setup ALOT. I ran my car in SS for two years, switched to ASP. It took me 3 alignments to get my setup to work better than stock (with custom alignment).
Bigger brakes are a waste of $$.
Removing pass seat? Dumb idea.
PFC= prepared class
Street port= prepared class
3mm seals, we all know you don't need them to run lots of boost. Running lots of boost= Prepared again...
Running with a little gas, bad idea as others have mentioned.
I think setup and driver skill is far more important than anything. Of course after you do it for a while you'll find that your 10mo old tires don't stick like new ones either.
If you have any sort of budget, stay with stock wheels with R-compound tires. Hoosiers seem to be the fastest, but Kuhmo V700s aren't far behind, they last longer and cost about 40% less. This combo is really more than just about anyone can handle. If your losing by .2 sec then the Hoosiers will give you the edge. If your losing by 2 sec, then you need to learn to drive.
The FD is really a monster on the course in stock form. Of course we all know the C5 Vette (Z06 and std version) are faster. The C5 knocked the FD out of the trophies nationally before the Z06 came out. So besides the fact that you won't beat a good C5 driver I'd suggest ASP. Do the bolt on mods, play with setup ALOT. I ran my car in SS for two years, switched to ASP. It took me 3 alignments to get my setup to work better than stock (with custom alignment).
Bigger brakes are a waste of $$.
Removing pass seat? Dumb idea.
PFC= prepared class
Street port= prepared class
3mm seals, we all know you don't need them to run lots of boost. Running lots of boost= Prepared again...
Running with a little gas, bad idea as others have mentioned.
I think setup and driver skill is far more important than anything. Of course after you do it for a while you'll find that your 10mo old tires don't stick like new ones either.
#32
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Originally posted by turbojeff
Bigger brakes are a waste of $$.
Removing pass seat? Dumb idea.
Bigger brakes are a waste of $$.
Removing pass seat? Dumb idea.
#33
mythical Unicorn
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ASP & Boost
You can run an upgraded ECU with the Fuel Cut removed and still be legal in ASP. Rule states that you cannot manipulate the boost.
I have called and it was confirmed that upgraded ECU is fine for ASP.
Allan
I have called and it was confirmed that upgraded ECU is fine for ASP.
Allan
#34
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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So what freakn class would i run in? I've got every single bolt on, BNR stage 3 turbos, street port Power FC, 17psi of boost, making about 500Bhp, front anti sway bar, tower strut brace, toe links, trailing arms, koni yellows, eibach springs.
Any ideas? I havent got into Auto cross cause I figured I'd be playing with some hardcore race cars.
STEPHEN
Any ideas? I havent got into Auto cross cause I figured I'd be playing with some hardcore race cars.
STEPHEN
#35
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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I was doing a search for some info...sorry for bringing this back from the dead. By the time I got to the end of the post I forgot it was old haha
STEPHEN
STEPHEN
#36
Perpetual Project
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Originally posted by SPOautos
I was doing a search for some info...sorry for bringing this back from the dead. By the time I got to the end of the post I forgot it was old haha
STEPHEN
I was doing a search for some info...sorry for bringing this back from the dead. By the time I got to the end of the post I forgot it was old haha
STEPHEN
#37
Senior Member
Originally posted by SPOautos
So what freakn class would i run in? I've got every single bolt on, BNR stage 3 turbos, street port Power FC, 17psi of boost, making about 500Bhp, front anti sway bar, tower strut brace, toe links, trailing arms, koni yellows, eibach springs.
Any ideas? I havent got into Auto cross cause I figured I'd be playing with some hardcore race cars.
STEPHEN
So what freakn class would i run in? I've got every single bolt on, BNR stage 3 turbos, street port Power FC, 17psi of boost, making about 500Bhp, front anti sway bar, tower strut brace, toe links, trailing arms, koni yellows, eibach springs.
Any ideas? I havent got into Auto cross cause I figured I'd be playing with some hardcore race cars.
STEPHEN
#38
mythical Unicorn
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What Class to run in?
Originally posted by SPOautos
So what freakn class would i run in? I've got every single bolt on, BNR stage 3 turbos, street port Power FC, 17psi of boost, making about 500Bhp, front anti sway bar, tower strut brace, toe links, trailing arms, koni yellows, eibach springs.
Any ideas? I havent got into Auto cross cause I figured I'd be playing with some hardcore race cars.
STEPHEN
So what freakn class would i run in? I've got every single bolt on, BNR stage 3 turbos, street port Power FC, 17psi of boost, making about 500Bhp, front anti sway bar, tower strut brace, toe links, trailing arms, koni yellows, eibach springs.
Any ideas? I havent got into Auto cross cause I figured I'd be playing with some hardcore race cars.
STEPHEN
I currently run in SM2.
Love to see ya running in one of the National Events.
Allan
#39
Car>woman
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http://mouton.best.vwh.net/sccasolo/
read this, know it. mod according to which class you want to race in. learn to drive. stock wheels with sticky tires. and for those of you who say rx7's aren't competetive against z06's, a local rx7 recently finished second in his class against 3 vettes. 2 being z06's and the 3rd a redular c5. oh, and learn to drive. wow, i too just realized this is an old thread. noise falling on deaf ears i suppose.
read this, know it. mod according to which class you want to race in. learn to drive. stock wheels with sticky tires. and for those of you who say rx7's aren't competetive against z06's, a local rx7 recently finished second in his class against 3 vettes. 2 being z06's and the 3rd a redular c5. oh, and learn to drive. wow, i too just realized this is an old thread. noise falling on deaf ears i suppose.
#40
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Don't put too much worth on regional results. Nationals is the true measure of what cars dominate a class. SS is a lost cause. No way a legal SS RX-7 will be competitive at Nationals .... I even doubt it at Divisionals. ASP is sort of a dying class; but one could be competitive there. Again though, more Z06's will start sorting out in ASP this year ... tough competition. SM2 is really the only place left to go. And it gets expensive in a hurry. I'm almost setup for SM2 and so far, appear to be competitive. We'll see at the National Tour.
#41
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by 3isacharm
and for those of you who say rx7's aren't competetive against z06's, a local rx7 recently finished second in his class
and for those of you who say rx7's aren't competetive against z06's, a local rx7 recently finished second in his class
Originally posted by 3isacharm
oh, and learn to drive.
oh, and learn to drive.
Given equal talent under the helmet a Z06 is a better car for autox. Why RX-7 drivers take this personally I don't know, but thems the facts.
#42
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Damon, you won't have Donovan to kick around in SS this year at the Tour. He and Amita decided to stick with the E36 and stay safely tucked away in BS. Hopefully, DFL is not in the plan for you this year. I'll be rootin' for ya.
#43
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it just seems that people make it out to be a lost cause, and if this guy is asking what a good setup is, he probably won't be going to nationals (no offense). good point though.
#44
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Who actually made it down to SD for nationals? I think I saw Spank in his Black SM2 but I didn't get a chance to talk to him since he was in the middle of fixing something in the back of his car.
#45
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by redrotorR1
Damon, you won't have Donovan to kick around in SS this year at the Tour. He and Amita decided to stick with the E36 and stay safely tucked away in BS. Hopefully, DFL is not in the plan for you this year. I'll be rootin' for ya.
Damon, you won't have Donovan to kick around in SS this year at the Tour. He and Amita decided to stick with the E36 and stay safely tucked away in BS. Hopefully, DFL is not in the plan for you this year. I'll be rootin' for ya.
Last edited by DamonB; 03-20-03 at 03:11 PM.
#46
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Originally posted by Houdini
Who actually made it down to SD for nationals?
Who actually made it down to SD for nationals?
#47
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Originally posted by DamonB
Well crap. He failed to mention that to me We had a friendly rivalry going at the Divisionals and Tours. I guess this means I automatically win by default Does that make Amita tire warmer or is she staying in BSL?
Well crap. He failed to mention that to me We had a friendly rivalry going at the Divisionals and Tours. I guess this means I automatically win by default Does that make Amita tire warmer or is she staying in BSL?
#48
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by redrotorR1
half of which I know are fairly to very good drivers.
half of which I know are fairly to very good drivers.