gas tank swap ?
#4
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
It is so simple a guy like you really doesn't need instructions.
I bought a new 95 or 96 tank from Mazdacomp last year for my 93. Installation was very straightforward.
Run the car very low on gas. You don't want to deal with 3-5 gal of gas in a bucket/tank.
Disconnect the fuel pump electrical and hoses.
Open gas door and remove gas cap and then remove the two small bolts that hold the black flange around the filler neck.
There is a ground strap that attaches somewhere near/on the filler neck, I'm not sure where it is.
Get under the car and remove the two bolts that hold the two straps, these support the tank. Now the tank will be free. Drop that puppy down.
I hope I didn't forget anything...
On the swap, I bought a NEW tank and it didn't have the thick rubber padding that insulates the tank from rubbing the body. I removed all the rubber and foam padding from the existing tank and used rubber cement to attach it to the new tank.
R+R filler neck and the fuel pump assy to the new tank, don't forget the little flapper that prevents gas from flowing back up the filler neck.
Installation is the reverse of removal (I always wanted to say that).
I'd say the entire job took me about 1hr. The hardest part was dealing with that freakin' ground strap, I didn't see it until the tank was hanging by it so I had to struggle to remove it.
Do us all a favor and measure the amount of gas you put in the car to get it started and the amount you put in it at the gas station.
I put about 1gal of gas in my tank and drove the car to a gas station about 1mi away. IIRC the manual states the tank holds 21gal or so. I don't think my car took more than 15-16gal.
I bought a new 95 or 96 tank from Mazdacomp last year for my 93. Installation was very straightforward.
Run the car very low on gas. You don't want to deal with 3-5 gal of gas in a bucket/tank.
Disconnect the fuel pump electrical and hoses.
Open gas door and remove gas cap and then remove the two small bolts that hold the black flange around the filler neck.
There is a ground strap that attaches somewhere near/on the filler neck, I'm not sure where it is.
Get under the car and remove the two bolts that hold the two straps, these support the tank. Now the tank will be free. Drop that puppy down.
I hope I didn't forget anything...
On the swap, I bought a NEW tank and it didn't have the thick rubber padding that insulates the tank from rubbing the body. I removed all the rubber and foam padding from the existing tank and used rubber cement to attach it to the new tank.
R+R filler neck and the fuel pump assy to the new tank, don't forget the little flapper that prevents gas from flowing back up the filler neck.
Installation is the reverse of removal (I always wanted to say that).
I'd say the entire job took me about 1hr. The hardest part was dealing with that freakin' ground strap, I didn't see it until the tank was hanging by it so I had to struggle to remove it.
Do us all a favor and measure the amount of gas you put in the car to get it started and the amount you put in it at the gas station.
I put about 1gal of gas in my tank and drove the car to a gas station about 1mi away. IIRC the manual states the tank holds 21gal or so. I don't think my car took more than 15-16gal.
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#9
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Originally posted by damian
by the way, did you change the tank cuz of the old tank fuel starve issues?
by the way, did you change the tank cuz of the old tank fuel starve issues?
I can now run the car down to about 1/4 tank with no problems at the auto-x. I think that is acceptable.
#14
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Originally posted by rockshox
i believe the tanks were changed in 94 95 and 96
i believe the tanks were changed in 94 95 and 96
I *think* that the 96+ tank is the one to have but I also remember someone saying the 95+ tank has the same p/n...