What are you using on the fittings where they go into the fuel rails? Is there any special thread sealant required on any of the fittings or joints to prevent leaks?

I have a similar setup going in, and have searched with no avail on how to seal up the fuel lines!

Your Post, and this one:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=1#post5464142

have been the most informative i have found.
Thanks for all the pics and the hard work.

P.S. I am using all russel fittings, lines and a Sard FPR. Thanks

 

well, there are 2 kinds of fittings my kit had, pipe thread style and compression style ...

the pipe thread ones I put teflon tape on for sealant, these were the elbow connections that threaded into the actual rails

the compression fittings I do not, they typically dont need it, and these were all the erls style fittings on the braided fuel lines.

 

So common teflon tape will do the job for sealing the threaded fuel angles etc? any paste is needed or something of the sort?

Thanks

 

>>So common teflon tape will do the job for sealing the threaded fuel angles etc?

that is all i used for the pipe threaded ones

 

Thanks!!! I was just not sure if it would be enough!


Thanks for your write up.... awsome help!

George

 

i had the 1680's and the kg secondary rail on the car when i bought it... now i bought the kg primary rail and 850's i have to finish the install. someone told me you can adjust for the 850's in the dataloggit so dont use resistors. then someone swore you need to use resistors. what am i suppose to do here? i checked my 850's and it goes from 2.8 to 2.9 ohms... so what is recommended experienced brothas.

 

anyone?

 

can u run standard fuel lines and fittings with these rails?

 

So what power level are you guys shooting for to need this setup and how much does it cost geneally speaking to go this way? given all the resistors/ or the other box/controller and the system itself? I dont need that much fuel for what im doing but i love the clean look of this setup. nice writeup!

 

this will supply pretty much whatever your fuel pump can pump to the rails. 1680's and 850's is a lot of fuel. resistors are not of much cost at all. go to kgparts.com for all the pricing and options for what you want... if you do the ultimate kit like i have you will never have to upgrade. still looking for some resistor help guys...

 

"OWHAT" you use the stock fuel lines that go to the tank. the fittings are no longer used if you get the ultimate kit. its pretty much from the firewall forward.

 

reviving this thread in hopes of solving a problem

car starts up and runs fine at light load (fuel pressure 36 to 38 psi), but when I get into the throttle just below 0 boost, fuel pressure abruptly drops to zero like a light switch and the car sputters and dies...then when I turn the key off and reset the igniton it fires right back up....the fuel pump, TPS, and fuel pump relay (usual culprits) are all new...I'm stumped...I recently upgraded the injectors to 850 primaries/1200 secondaries and I'm wondering if the resistor issue discussed in this thread could be causing the problem; however, if the injector failed, wouldn't the fuel line pressure increase? it's almost like there is a short in the system

any suggestions? thanks...

 

I had fuel pump restior go bad like what your describing, it would start good and then die within about 5 secounds. i jumped out the resistor and now it gets 12 volts all the time. give it a try, good luck! I mean 12 volts instead of the 9/12 volts.

 

thanks...are you talking about the resistor that mounts underneath the master cylinder/brake booster?

I didn't think resistors "went bad"...but I guess nothing on this car is safe

 

Yes that is the one, i left it in place and jumped it out until im finished with all the up grades. By the way the fuel pump relay is why you have fuel pressure, when it converts you have about 5 secounds of idle time unless you push the pedal down. does this sound like your problem?

 

ok let me cover a few things:

>>fuel pressure abruptly drops to zero

>>I recently upgraded the injectors to 850 primaries/1200 secondaries and I'm wondering if the resistor issue discussed in this thread could be causing the problem;

the resistors cant relly cause a massive FP drop. but can you find out if its dying from being flooded with fuel or dying cuz its starving the fuel? in other words, I am trying to find out if the pressure drop cuz the injectors are jumping to 100%, or the pressure drops cuz of somthign else and not enough fuel pressure gets to the injectors.

id bet its not the resistors...its somthgin else....


the things that control FP are the pump and FPR.

 

fuel pressure drop on the gauge of the fpr? you have the aeromotive one with the built in gauge right? does the car run or what tell me whats going on i have all my stuff worked out. its funny cause i was the one pming you a week ago or so... help me help you

 

We were talking about the fuel pump resitor, it is the source of power to the fuel pump, it will give 9 volts at idle and low rpm but increases to 12 volts on demand. If it goes bad you will get pressure from fuel relay but the pump will quit giving about 5 secounds of fuel!

 

^^^ i didnt read the 6th page i thought i was the last one to post in this thread. so please disreguard the last post of mine. im a dumbass hell i wont even bother editing the post i like to laugh at myself sadly. with that said carry on!

 

yes, I have the aeromotive fpr with a gauge mounted on it that I temporarily pull inside the car for diagnostic purposes...I also installed the GM 3 bar map sensor a few weeks ago and I was thinking this might be the problem, but I've been watching the Commander closely, and boost pressure isn't doing anything funny when the car dies, in fact it never even reaches positive pressure

the car runs fine at low load for a quite awhile, but when you get on the gas (not sure when the secondaries kick on) it's like there is a short: the fuel pressure 'blips' and then falls right off to near zero, then goes completely dead within a few seconds....but when I reset the ignition it starts right back up with 38 psi

I think there must be a short somewhere...and btw this problem happened out of the blue, the 3 bar map sensor was installed when BDC did the tune and everything was working great for several weeks

 

it's starving...when I pulled the pump there was no pressure in the lines and the car never seems flooded...it re-primes and fires right back up

 

I just installed one of these with a Ground Zero lower intake manifold. I did not use any of the stock atomizers. I was able to get a good seal with the primaries using new stock injector insulators. The injector o-ring will seal against the aluminum spacer Keith provides and the seal between the spacer and motor is achieved by the rubber insulator. As for the 2ndaries, I was having trouble getting the spacers to seat deep enough into the injector bungs in the lower intake manifold. I'm not sure if it was an issue with the ground zero manifold, or because it was ceramic coated and some got into those areas. I fixed the issue by carefully taking a dremel with a sanding drum and cleaning up the inside of the injector bungs. Not precise machining by any means, but I was able to get a good seal with no leaks.

 

I used silicone on the outside of the spacers just incase injecter rides up in spacer did pressure test on intake and it held good. I dont know if its needed but it didnt take any time to do it!

 

Is (in my case was) this a soft rubber o-ring that seals the atomizer inside the LIM?

 

Nope. That ring is part of the atomizer itself. The rubber grommets look like little donuts and sit above the atomizer.