Hello, currently upgrading fuel pumps and I need to convert the power wire to 10awg. Was searching through the threads and I just want to make sure I’m understanding it properly. I was looking at the threat regarding getting power straight from the battery and they said this is basically what you’re doing:

so I guess my questions are…
Does this give me 10awg up until the resistor? Is the w/r wire where it gets smaller in gauge?
i want it to utilize the factory relay, and go straight from the relay to the fuse and then to the pump bypassing the resistor.

 

Theres no need to innovate the technique. You will remove the resistor, jump the plug and use the factory wiring to trigger a relay that will then power the pump. You will run a new wire from the battery to the pump. Follow any of the diagrams showing how to do this

 

My resistor is not bypassed by going with 10-gauge wire from the front relay box (from the speed relay output) directly to the pump. Then you don't need another relay, you preserve the resistor for low-speed idle stability, you have 10-gauge wire from the battery directly the main pump relay and have mostly 10 gauge the entire way except from the main pump relay to the speed relay. I don't exactly know the gauge of this stock wire, but I believe it's 12-14 gauge (does anyone else know?). You could add another parallel 10-gauge wire from the main relay to the speed relay. You wouldn't' want to cut the existing wire or you would potentially bypass the resistor and potentially would have no pump power until high-speed, depending on where the wire is cut in the wiring harness.
Mike

 

I only need one relay just to turn it on and off with the ignition, I’m running a haltech ecu, so the speed of it will be controlled by that. So my only goal is to have the one relay to turn it on and off with the ignition, and a 10awg power wire

 

Can I just depin the blue and blue/red wire, run a wire from the battery to the spot where the blue one was, pin that and then run a wire from where the blue/red one was back to the fuel pump? I was also thinking of utilizing a spot in the fuse box for the new fuse but all of mine are taken up, and the label doesn’t match the fuses. So idk what two of them are lol it’s a jdm car

 

Yes, that should work.
An old thread about connecting blue wire to battery: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ty-mod-615964/
And I don't see why I wouldn't be able to wire blue/red directly to the pump.

 

perfect thanks! I did see that thread, and how he utilized an open circuit fuse spot, which I guess brings me to my next question, does anyone know what the fuses are for in this fuse box? USDM label shows 3 spots occupied, and from what I could find, the jdm version has a couple variations but I was not able to find a version that has all 5 slots occupied

 

Why not just buy a direct wire kit from IRP or Sakebomb?

 

I very well could it wouldn’t be hard, I’m just **** about things looking clean in the engine bay and am trying to minimize extra wires and what not. It’d be ideal to be able to incorporate it into the OEM system

 

SBG is too expensive and IRP might not have any ready made at the moment. I paid 80 bucks and got the DIY wiring harness from Radium, and that was perfect.

 

SBG is too expensive and IRP might not have any ready made at the moment. I paid 80 bucks and got the DIY wiring harness from Radium, and that was perfect.

 

With the DIY Radium harness, you won't even know it's there. 99% of it is routed within the hatch plastics and depending on where your battery is, it's one 10 gauge red wire with a fuse. You can make that disappear.

 

interesting. I haven’t seen their kit yet. I’ll look into that, thank you!

 

Yes, running a brand new wire from the relay to the pump might only gain you 0.5-1volt on a 15A draw single pump vs the ignition circuit bypass mod.
If you take power wire from one side of that bottom 20A fuse (thats the optional TEL fuse on my JDM RHD) Then u can wire that to the relay in your pic (blue wire)

The 20A TEL fuse will now be your fuel pump fuse.

Remove 20A fuel pump fuse from inside the car (so power isn't going to the blue wire anymore even though u will insulate it)

I have about 13volts to a 340LPH pump at idle with this mod (but battery voltage is 13.6-13.8) so still a drop through factory red/white wire to the pump in the back.

 

thats great information thank you! A few questions. What’s the “TEL fuse” do? And should I switch it to a 30amp fuse? The pump is a brushless 840lph pump. Will this still only turn on the fuel pump when the car is keyed on? Haven’t had time to get to things yet due to a 4 month old at home lol free time is a valuable and rare thing now

 

Yes, read over the thread posted above which shows how to do it.
The relay is still triggered on by the ECU.
Where as before the relay ONLY got power from switched key ignition, now its constant power BUT only switched ON by the ecu (which is EXACTLY how everyones fuel pump re-wire to the boot works anyways)

Mazda just had a double safety from factory, and a massive voltage drop is because power comes from the ignition key circuit, not direct from the battery.

Id be checking the current draw of your pump, if its too much you will need to upgrade wiring and plugs in the back anyways... In which case messing with the fuse box re-wire is a waste of time.

 

How do I depin one of these spade fuses?

 

How To: My Variation of the Fuel Pump Rewire - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

Read over that, its much harder to remove the yellow clips from the relay wiring. You will need to depin those also.
Whole fuse box needs to come apart, top bottom and the little tray for the fuses

 

yea I did read that, he was fortunate to have an open pin for the spade fuse so he just has to insert the connector. Mine is currently occupied so I have to remove an existing connector. I just don’t want to break anything trying to get this thing out lol

 

Remove the little door and slide it out (as they thread shows)

shine a light into the pin and u will see the locking tab, very easy to depin with small jewellers screw driver set or just buy some actual depinning tools.

Mine was same as yours I had to remove one side of the TEL fuse and hesthsrink and cover it.

it’s much harder to depin and remove the relay one. Due to the yellow retaining clip and good luck carefully getting it back in.

If you are stuck on depinning the fuse then u have difficult times ahead

 

ohhhhhhh I didn’t scroll down far enough in the “how to” thread 😂 ok yeah, that wasn’t hard at all.

Which one is the TEL fuse? I have both spots taken up