You mean the solenoid or the actuator?. Yeah can be deleted. Seems likely your turbos have been parralled. Meaning they operate concurently rather than sequentially.

I wonder if your ecu is stock.

 

I suppose its photo time. My ecu looks factory to me. By the way I'm following these guides. The first one is simplified and second is stock im closer to simplified because all the emission deletes. I'll put photos of my rats nest in the next post.

Simplified

Stock

 

Im also using this to reference which each solenoid is

 

This is one line with three Ts it goes to the green and white solenoids. As well as the turbo control2 which is a Mitsubishi solenoid.

The highlighted lines are everywhere this one line goes. One goes down to the turbo actuator, the blue one goes to a vacuum chamber. It also connects to the turbo control 2. The other two connections go to the white and green solenoid. The line was also connected to a check valve that goes to the double throttle control

This is the turbo control2 solenoid Mitsubishi

This shows which sides of the green and white solenoids the lines connect to. (Highlighted lines)

 

I don't have a solenoid purge control valve. My catch tank just goes to a check valve that's flipped the wrong direction to act as a cap. Should I get a solenoid purge control valve?

 

I think that three T line is maybe replacing a hard line that typically runs along the top frame of the rats nest, but who knows? Are all the harness plugs connected to solenoids? Are all, or most, of the solenoid vacuum lines connected to something, such as actuaters? Is the air control valve there? Are there three vacuum lines running to it.

Note: Those vacuum line diagrams are no scale or location exact. Some of those lines are actually very short and may be hard lines (at least part of the way).

 

The harness plug for "Charge Relief" is not plugged into a solenoid. I don't see an 8th solenoid for it and the solenoid racks seem to only have 7 slots. I believe the ACV is deleted, I believe that's just emissions. If you look at the simplified diagram it says to delete it. My rats nest mainly follows the simplified diagram that I posted. The only 3 solenoids that seem to be different are F, G, and H.
The diagram says they should be
F = Charge Control
G = Double Throttle Control
H = Charge Relief
The only other differences that I have from the simplified diagram is that my catch can is only connected to the charcoal canaster and I still have the double throttle control connected, but its connected different. I also do not have the hardline of the rats nest that sits above the solenoids, instead my pressure chamber just sits loose atop the nest. Where should my pressure chamber mount?

 

Although it is not clear in this picture the pressure chamber sits in front of the uim and has one flange attached to the uim. A second support brace normally sits under the cross over pipe and has a seat that the pressure chamber is bolted to.

 

Yeah it looks like someone removed some of the emissions stuff and didn't do a very neat job of it.

I would track down that purge control solenoid, it's worth having and they should be cheap and easy to find used.

Dale

 

Update, I removed the rest of the exhaust manifold while I was in there. The gaskets to the block were fine but I picked up some nice used OEM gaskets from the exhaust manifold to the turbo manifold because mine were tearing on the inner edges and I didn't want that sucked into my turbos. I sprayed my gaskets with copper gasket spray for hopefully an even better bond. Luckily I didn't break any studs, good thing I ordered all new ones right? Much PB blaster was used! My turbo manifold has some cracking in it but the play in the turbos is ok. Pettit said I should be able to get some more life out of them and also gave me a price on having the turbos, brick and everything blueprinted and made nice. I plan to do that later when I can. I also plan to pick up a purge control solenoid valve from them next week. I took out most of the vac lines that are different from the simplified diagram and tomorrow I'll note down how all the different ones currently are set up for me. Then I'll assemble it following the diagram and I will also be reassembling my exhaust and turbo. Hopefully I can get it all done tomorrow. The vacuum lines is the most time consuming part. After these are finished it's an oil change and spark plugs. After this I'll be diving into the cooling system, raising the car a bit and softening the suspension (car came with pretty new adjustable bc suspension) , and have the boost lowered to 6psi while I continue to make the car right. I'm very grateful to all of the help I've received from both the forums and Pettit. I'm still very lost but I feel like I'm getting somewhere.

 

Does anyone know what I need to take out to be able to reach the vac lines that seem to go into the engine? I need to get to where dark blue and teal go into the engine. I'd like to take out as little as possible as to not compromise my old wiring harness. I started taking the solenoids out.

 

Does anyone know what this is supposed to go to? It’s just a hose with a bolt in it coming out of the top of the engine about where it connected to the trans. This view is from behind the UIM between the UIM and the firewall.

 

If you have the UIM off you likely don't have to go that deep into the engine. Lowest vac line nipple(s) might be near the inside base of the LIM.

 

Have you asked Petit if you can dig in their Dumpster.?Tuner shops are tossing rats nest all the time. You might be able to find an intact solenoid rack set-up to at least be a partial guide.

 

There is a coolant hose that comes up off the keg at the back left. It normally runs up to the throttle body. The coolant then runs through the throttle body and out to a hose which takes it away from the front of throttle body and back to the filler neck. This often gets deleted, as the purpose of the coolant is to warm the throttle body. That line where it joins the keg at the back is difficult to get to if it starts leaking. Another reason to delete. It may be they have just cut the hose and plugged it with a bolt.

A vacuum line runs to the FPR in about that area at the back.

Look closely at the coolant flow diagram in the shop manual.

 

Which one of these two lines that I have my finger on do you guys have capped? I’m trying to find out which I plug the dark blue line from the diagram into.

 

I think we are looking down on the pedestal that you see in dark blue below the twin solenoids.
I

 

I don’t understand sorry. I know it’s for the twin solenoids I’m trying to find out if it should be plugged into the spot that’s capped instead of the other one my finger was touching. Because the other one is bigger and I’ll have to stretch the hose to get it to fit.

 

Do you have this piece?

 

Nope just the solenoids and solenoid rack.

 

Does anyone know if deleted rats nest solenoids can be unplugged? Mine currently are capped and plugged in but I don’t see why they need to be capped. I also feel like I should be able to get away with unplugging and pulling them out to keep as spares. I’m sure they’d last longer not in a hot engine bay.

 

The stock ecu will be looking for those solenoids and will be unhappy if it can't find them. Even if they are not actually actuating anything.

I wonder if your check engine light has been disabled.

Have you ascertained that you actually have a stock ecu?

Maybe I missed your confirmation of this.

In rare cases some folk stuff an aftermarket ecu in a stock box. In other cases the stock box has been customized with an added chip.

 

I opened each side and didn’t want to tread any further because the harness didn’t want to come out, maybe I just don’t know how to release it but I didn’t want to break it. When i opened each side I saw a large circuit board on each side, I simply assumed it was stock, the box itself definitely is stock. Not really sure what I would be looking for though. Also my check engine light has come on so not disabled. But it would go away when I turned off the car and once or twice just go off by itself while driving. It seemed to go off when I would zoom zoom, you know, the Mazda way. I wasn’t able to verify if it was just high rpms because after it happened I babied it home.

 

Some more plugs id like to identify, I found them the yellow one under the oil filler and the small black one tucked by the spark plugs

 

Just guessing:

Black one - pulled out of a harness plug?
Yellow: Air bag circuit?