First Rotary
12-13-20, 01:45 AM
#51
Full Member
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
LegoMontego (12-13-20)
The following users liked this post:
LegoMontego (12-13-20)
12-13-20, 06:40 PM
#55
Full Member
Thread Starter
it’s pristine, I only took the side plates off so I couldn’t see everything but it looks brand new on the inside, looks a little beaten up on the outside.
12-13-20, 06:40 PM
#56
assuming a hose for a boost gauge being that its run off that red connector to the UIM nipple. It's not OEM
it also looks too small to be hose and more like a wire, maybe look what it's connected to inside or pull it off the UIM and see if its a ragtag thermocouple or something
it also looks too small to be hose and more like a wire, maybe look what it's connected to inside or pull it off the UIM and see if its a ragtag thermocouple or something
Last edited by b3delta; 12-13-20 at 06:45 PM.
12-13-20, 07:15 PM
#57
Full Member
Thread Starter
assuming a hose for a boost gauge being that its run off that red connector to the UIM nipple. It's not OEM
it also looks too small to be hose and more like a wire, maybe look what it's connected to inside or pull it off the UIM and see if its a ragtag thermocouple or something
it also looks too small to be hose and more like a wire, maybe look what it's connected to inside or pull it off the UIM and see if its a ragtag thermocouple or something
12-14-20, 12:54 PM
#58
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
That line was for a boost reference for something. That nipple on the intake manifold stock has a cap on it, that's what everyone uses for a boost gauge.
Either it had a boost gauge and it was removed or there's something else like a boost controller or something that needs to see boost. I'd find the other end of it. Should be coming out around the ECU.
Dale
Either it had a boost gauge and it was removed or there's something else like a boost controller or something that needs to see boost. I'd find the other end of it. Should be coming out around the ECU.
Dale
12-14-20, 01:13 PM
#59
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
OK, realized I was behind a bit on this thread.
First off, you have a good amount of work ahead of you to get this car sorted out by the few pictures I'm seeing. This car has been hacked on by someone in the past, either poor workmanship or it was more modified and they put it back to stock to sell. The fact the ECU is just floating around and not bolted down is a red flag.
Some notes from reading through your posts -
- That is an aftermarket fuel pump, don't know what it is though. Stock the fuel pump connects to the output with an O-ring, someone hacked that connection off and used a hose to connect the fuel pump to the output. Hose looked OK, make sure it isn't gummy or messed up. That hose has to be rated for submersion in gasoline or it comes apart. Short term that will work, long term I would look at getting a known fuel pump and installed right.
- Someone has played around in the rat's nest on top of the engine. Pull the upper intake manifold and go to work. There are threads showing the stock ECU harness and what each connector does. Step through it and make sure everything is good, plugged in, etc. up there. There are some connectors that stock are not used, that's not a big deal.
- If you're in the rat's nest you will need some vacuum line. Boost controller.com has excellent silicone hose for a great price. Get 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm and you will have plenty. If you see a hose that's baked on the rat's nest and is fine, LEAVE IT. You will have more problems with a broken solenoid than anything else.
- Hopefully your wiring harness for the ECU is usable. Sometimes they LOOK bad but WORK fine. Some good 3M electrical tape can fix a lot of the hard/crumbling tape on an ECU harness. If it needs a lot of work get it out of the car and work on it on a bench.
- As stated, find some RX-7 friends locally. Where in Florida are you? You'd be surprised what a few minutes with someone who knows these cars can tell you just by looking at it.
- Take your time, get the RIGHT part for the job and the RIGHT tool for the job. Yes, some parts are expensive, but you can find stuff used many times, clean up/fix what you have, etc. Spend money SMART on the car. Don't start buying mods or anything now or try and remove "all this crap" - get it running properly as close to stock as possible FIRST, then move forward.
- POST PICTURES. When in doubt, take pictures. Also take pictures as you take stuff apart, you'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how stuff goes together. Get some pictures up on the forum of what you are working on so we can help.
- Don't scatter shot the job. Start on one aspect, take it apart, order parts, put it back together right with the right parts, move to the next thing. If you just start taking EVERYTHING apart you will be overwhelmed and will have problems. I can't tell you how many cars I've seen where guys take them apart, get lost, it sits for 1-2 years, then it is sold for pennies on the dollar or scrapped. It's REAL easy to fall down that hole. Don't do it, we can help you.
Dale
First off, you have a good amount of work ahead of you to get this car sorted out by the few pictures I'm seeing. This car has been hacked on by someone in the past, either poor workmanship or it was more modified and they put it back to stock to sell. The fact the ECU is just floating around and not bolted down is a red flag.
Some notes from reading through your posts -
- That is an aftermarket fuel pump, don't know what it is though. Stock the fuel pump connects to the output with an O-ring, someone hacked that connection off and used a hose to connect the fuel pump to the output. Hose looked OK, make sure it isn't gummy or messed up. That hose has to be rated for submersion in gasoline or it comes apart. Short term that will work, long term I would look at getting a known fuel pump and installed right.
- Someone has played around in the rat's nest on top of the engine. Pull the upper intake manifold and go to work. There are threads showing the stock ECU harness and what each connector does. Step through it and make sure everything is good, plugged in, etc. up there. There are some connectors that stock are not used, that's not a big deal.
- If you're in the rat's nest you will need some vacuum line. Boost controller.com has excellent silicone hose for a great price. Get 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm and you will have plenty. If you see a hose that's baked on the rat's nest and is fine, LEAVE IT. You will have more problems with a broken solenoid than anything else.
- Hopefully your wiring harness for the ECU is usable. Sometimes they LOOK bad but WORK fine. Some good 3M electrical tape can fix a lot of the hard/crumbling tape on an ECU harness. If it needs a lot of work get it out of the car and work on it on a bench.
- As stated, find some RX-7 friends locally. Where in Florida are you? You'd be surprised what a few minutes with someone who knows these cars can tell you just by looking at it.
- Take your time, get the RIGHT part for the job and the RIGHT tool for the job. Yes, some parts are expensive, but you can find stuff used many times, clean up/fix what you have, etc. Spend money SMART on the car. Don't start buying mods or anything now or try and remove "all this crap" - get it running properly as close to stock as possible FIRST, then move forward.
- POST PICTURES. When in doubt, take pictures. Also take pictures as you take stuff apart, you'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how stuff goes together. Get some pictures up on the forum of what you are working on so we can help.
- Don't scatter shot the job. Start on one aspect, take it apart, order parts, put it back together right with the right parts, move to the next thing. If you just start taking EVERYTHING apart you will be overwhelmed and will have problems. I can't tell you how many cars I've seen where guys take them apart, get lost, it sits for 1-2 years, then it is sold for pennies on the dollar or scrapped. It's REAL easy to fall down that hole. Don't do it, we can help you.
Dale
The following users liked this post:
Redbul (12-14-20)
12-14-20, 02:51 PM
#60
Full Member
Thread Starter
OK, realized I was behind a bit on this thread.
First off, you have a good amount of work ahead of you to get this car sorted out by the few pictures I'm seeing. This car has been hacked on by someone in the past, either poor workmanship or it was more modified and they put it back to stock to sell. The fact the ECU is just floating around and not bolted down is a red flag.
Some notes from reading through your posts -
- That is an aftermarket fuel pump, don't know what it is though. Stock the fuel pump connects to the output with an O-ring, someone hacked that connection off and used a hose to connect the fuel pump to the output. Hose looked OK, make sure it isn't gummy or messed up. That hose has to be rated for submersion in gasoline or it comes apart. Short term that will work, long term I would look at getting a known fuel pump and installed right.
- Someone has played around in the rat's nest on top of the engine. Pull the upper intake manifold and go to work. There are threads showing the stock ECU harness and what each connector does. Step through it and make sure everything is good, plugged in, etc. up there. There are some connectors that stock are not used, that's not a big deal.
- If you're in the rat's nest you will need some vacuum line. Boost controller.com has excellent silicone hose for a great price. Get 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm and you will have plenty. If you see a hose that's baked on the rat's nest and is fine, LEAVE IT. You will have more problems with a broken solenoid than anything else.
- Hopefully your wiring harness for the ECU is usable. Sometimes they LOOK bad but WORK fine. Some good 3M electrical tape can fix a lot of the hard/crumbling tape on an ECU harness. If it needs a lot of work get it out of the car and work on it on a bench.
- As stated, find some RX-7 friends locally. Where in Florida are you? You'd be surprised what a few minutes with someone who knows these cars can tell you just by looking at it.
- Take your time, get the RIGHT part for the job and the RIGHT tool for the job. Yes, some parts are expensive, but you can find stuff used many times, clean up/fix what you have, etc. Spend money SMART on the car. Don't start buying mods or anything now or try and remove "all this crap" - get it running properly as close to stock as possible FIRST, then move forward.
- POST PICTURES. When in doubt, take pictures. Also take pictures as you take stuff apart, you'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how stuff goes together. Get some pictures up on the forum of what you are working on so we can help.
- Don't scatter shot the job. Start on one aspect, take it apart, order parts, put it back together right with the right parts, move to the next thing. If you just start taking EVERYTHING apart you will be overwhelmed and will have problems. I can't tell you how many cars I've seen where guys take them apart, get lost, it sits for 1-2 years, then it is sold for pennies on the dollar or scrapped. It's REAL easy to fall down that hole. Don't do it, we can help you.
Dale
First off, you have a good amount of work ahead of you to get this car sorted out by the few pictures I'm seeing. This car has been hacked on by someone in the past, either poor workmanship or it was more modified and they put it back to stock to sell. The fact the ECU is just floating around and not bolted down is a red flag.
Some notes from reading through your posts -
- That is an aftermarket fuel pump, don't know what it is though. Stock the fuel pump connects to the output with an O-ring, someone hacked that connection off and used a hose to connect the fuel pump to the output. Hose looked OK, make sure it isn't gummy or messed up. That hose has to be rated for submersion in gasoline or it comes apart. Short term that will work, long term I would look at getting a known fuel pump and installed right.
- Someone has played around in the rat's nest on top of the engine. Pull the upper intake manifold and go to work. There are threads showing the stock ECU harness and what each connector does. Step through it and make sure everything is good, plugged in, etc. up there. There are some connectors that stock are not used, that's not a big deal.
- If you're in the rat's nest you will need some vacuum line. Boost controller.com has excellent silicone hose for a great price. Get 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm and you will have plenty. If you see a hose that's baked on the rat's nest and is fine, LEAVE IT. You will have more problems with a broken solenoid than anything else.
- Hopefully your wiring harness for the ECU is usable. Sometimes they LOOK bad but WORK fine. Some good 3M electrical tape can fix a lot of the hard/crumbling tape on an ECU harness. If it needs a lot of work get it out of the car and work on it on a bench.
- As stated, find some RX-7 friends locally. Where in Florida are you? You'd be surprised what a few minutes with someone who knows these cars can tell you just by looking at it.
- Take your time, get the RIGHT part for the job and the RIGHT tool for the job. Yes, some parts are expensive, but you can find stuff used many times, clean up/fix what you have, etc. Spend money SMART on the car. Don't start buying mods or anything now or try and remove "all this crap" - get it running properly as close to stock as possible FIRST, then move forward.
- POST PICTURES. When in doubt, take pictures. Also take pictures as you take stuff apart, you'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how stuff goes together. Get some pictures up on the forum of what you are working on so we can help.
- Don't scatter shot the job. Start on one aspect, take it apart, order parts, put it back together right with the right parts, move to the next thing. If you just start taking EVERYTHING apart you will be overwhelmed and will have problems. I can't tell you how many cars I've seen where guys take them apart, get lost, it sits for 1-2 years, then it is sold for pennies on the dollar or scrapped. It's REAL easy to fall down that hole. Don't do it, we can help you.
Dale
12-14-20, 07:55 PM
#63
You ain't seen nothin' yet.
Is the Turbo out, or just the downpipe? Old turbos often have cracks around the ports. Sometimes quite severe.
What does the other side of the turbo casing look like?
What shape was the gasket in? does it look like that crack would have been the leaking point?
What does the other side of the turbo casing look like?
What shape was the gasket in? does it look like that crack would have been the leaking point?
12-14-20, 07:59 PM
#64
Full Member
Thread Starter
turbo is in the leak was from the side in a previous picture i posted you can see the dye. The gash on the bottom isn’t a crack and it’s new. We’re debating either jb weld or just rtf and a new gasket. Debating wether I should try taking the two remaining studs out and do all new studs or just replace the two that are out. I could put a rethreader on the studs that are still in so at least that side will be clean.
12-14-20, 09:31 PM
#66
Full Member
Thread Starter
The Rx7 was a very unrealistic purchase for me to make but it’s my dream car and was tired of waiting, so I’m not the best on funds right now. Anywhere I can reuse or save money is the idea right now. However if the ecu will save my car from kabooming, that’s saving money in my eyes. I’m looking for my gaskets and studs now. I’m also going to check out the vacuum line I was recommended.
12-14-20, 09:35 PM
#67
Full Member
Thread Starter
Turns out the line on the intake manifold does in fact go to the turbo timer. Which turns out is also a boost gauge. It’s a Blitz DTT Dual Turbo Timer.
Edit: Looking a bit further into this Blitz DTT, it seem it was giving me an over boost warning. I assume that’s configured in the unit itself so it might just be configured wrong. But I’m currently looking for the manual for it but there’s a few different ones.
Edit: Looking a bit further into this Blitz DTT, it seem it was giving me an over boost warning. I assume that’s configured in the unit itself so it might just be configured wrong. But I’m currently looking for the manual for it but there’s a few different ones.
Last edited by LegoMontego; 12-14-20 at 09:40 PM.
12-14-20, 11:13 PM
#68
ECU Blues
I'd be curios to see a picture of the ecu and what its model number is.
If you dive into the rats nest, it is almost certain you will start breaking solenoids. They are about $100 each new. The double on is $200. It likes to break easy.
A smoke test, which blows smoke through the intake system ,will show you if there are any leaks in the vacuum system or the rat's nest. A smoke test likely cost no more than $100 (I pay $50). If there are no leaks, then better to leave well enough alone.
A codes check checks at about 75 inputs, including solenoids. This will tell you if there are any that need replacing.
These two tests beat trial-and-error by a hundred miles.
The manuals should have a troubleshooting matrix which lists symptoms and the systems that might be affected.
This would point you to the proper places to look for problems.
If you dive into the rats nest, it is almost certain you will start breaking solenoids. They are about $100 each new. The double on is $200. It likes to break easy.
A smoke test, which blows smoke through the intake system ,will show you if there are any leaks in the vacuum system or the rat's nest. A smoke test likely cost no more than $100 (I pay $50). If there are no leaks, then better to leave well enough alone.
A codes check checks at about 75 inputs, including solenoids. This will tell you if there are any that need replacing.
These two tests beat trial-and-error by a hundred miles.
The manuals should have a troubleshooting matrix which lists symptoms and the systems that might be affected.
This would point you to the proper places to look for problems.
12-14-20, 11:22 PM
#69
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'd be curios to see a picture of the ecu and what its model number is.
If you dive into the rats nest, it is almost certain you will start breaking solenoids. They are about $100 each new. The double on is $200. It likes to break easy.
A smoke test, which blows smoke through the intake system ,will show you if there are any leaks in the vacuum system or the rat's nest. A smoke test likely cost no more than $100 (I pay $50). If there are no leaks, then better to leave well enough alone.
A codes check checks at about 75 inputs, including solenoids. This will tell you if there are any that need replacing.
These two tests beat trial-and-error by a hundred miles.
The manuals should have a troubleshooting matrix which lists symptoms and the systems that might be affected.
This would point you to the proper places to look for problems.
If you dive into the rats nest, it is almost certain you will start breaking solenoids. They are about $100 each new. The double on is $200. It likes to break easy.
A smoke test, which blows smoke through the intake system ,will show you if there are any leaks in the vacuum system or the rat's nest. A smoke test likely cost no more than $100 (I pay $50). If there are no leaks, then better to leave well enough alone.
A codes check checks at about 75 inputs, including solenoids. This will tell you if there are any that need replacing.
These two tests beat trial-and-error by a hundred miles.
The manuals should have a troubleshooting matrix which lists symptoms and the systems that might be affected.
This would point you to the proper places to look for problems.
12-14-20, 11:40 PM
#70
If your are LHD you should have a diagnostic plug. A shop should be able to plug a device to check the codes. Check the codes against the manual.
If you are RHD you need to find a shop that has a JDM code reader. Some local member might have a reader. They are portable.
If you do not have a code reader, the manual should show you how to count the blips.
If you are RHD you need to find a shop that has a JDM code reader. Some local member might have a reader. They are portable.
If you do not have a code reader, the manual should show you how to count the blips.
12-14-20, 11:54 PM
#71
Full Member
Thread Starter
If your are LHD you should have a diagnostic plug. A shop should be able to plug a device to check the codes. Check the codes against the manual.
If you are RHD you need to find a shop that has a JDM code reader. Some local member might have a reader. They are portable.
If you do not have a code reader, the manual should show you how to count the blips.
If you are RHD you need to find a shop that has a JDM code reader. Some local member might have a reader. They are portable.
If you do not have a code reader, the manual should show you how to count the blips.
12-14-20, 11:58 PM
#72
Full Member
Thread Starter
I ordered all the exhaust brick studs from mc master car. I only need two right now but if I end up having to take the rest of the brick out I’ll have spare studs. They are however only steel. As for the gasket I’m looking at one from pineapple racing it’s graphite. Any thoughts?
https://www.pineappleracing.com/afte...-graphite.aspx
https://www.pineappleracing.com/afte...-graphite.aspx
The following users liked this post:
b3delta (12-15-20)
12-15-20, 01:41 AM
#74
Full Member
Thread Starter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xsu9...970chevelle396
I guess there are several kinds of smoke machine.. The above shows one. You can scroll toward the middle.
I guess there are several kinds of smoke machine.. The above shows one. You can scroll toward the middle.