First Rotary
12-12-20, 05:23 PM
#28
Probably gonna have to live with the lower one. See that little c clamp? Better have a spare before removing it.
On the top one. Better have some spare studs ready.
Be careful not to brush off the wire on the O2 sensor.
(likewise on the water level sensor (but that is another story.))
On the top one. Better have some spare studs ready.
Be careful not to brush off the wire on the O2 sensor.
(likewise on the water level sensor (but that is another story.))
12-12-20, 06:14 PM
#29
Full Member
Thread Starter
Probably gonna have to live with the lower one. See that little c clamp? Better have a spare before removing it.
On the top one. Better have some spare studs ready.
Be careful not to brush off the wire on the O2 sensor.
(likewise on the water level sensor (but that is another story.))
On the top one. Better have some spare studs ready.
Be careful not to brush off the wire on the O2 sensor.
(likewise on the water level sensor (but that is another story.))
12-12-20, 06:33 PM
#30
Yes you can pull the brick with the engine still in. Theres a good thread on here about getting the exact studs needed to restud the entire thing with studs from McMaster-Carr. Good time to port the wastegate and re do allll the vacuum lines while you have it all out
12-12-20, 11:53 PM
#31
Banker Weighs In
I already suggested spending $2500 on his rat's nest lol!
Set of gaskets and replacement studs from the turbo manifold, out, etc. is about $1500.
Better set priorities and a budget.
Given his wastegate axle is loose, indicating a lot of use, I would wonder if there is a surprise waiting when he can take a look at the cold side turbo fans.
Is there a way to remove the snapped stud? Such as the double nut technique, if there are any threads showing at all.?
Likely there will be more snapped studs.
Set of gaskets and replacement studs from the turbo manifold, out, etc. is about $1500.
Better set priorities and a budget.
Given his wastegate axle is loose, indicating a lot of use, I would wonder if there is a surprise waiting when he can take a look at the cold side turbo fans.
Is there a way to remove the snapped stud? Such as the double nut technique, if there are any threads showing at all.?
Likely there will be more snapped studs.
12-12-20, 11:59 PM
#32
I already already suggested spending $2500 on his rat's nest lol!
Set of gaskets and replacement studs from the turbo manifold, out, etc. is about $1500.
Better set priorities and a budget.
Given his wastegate axle is loose, indicating a lot of use, I would wonder if there a surprise waiting when he can take a look at the cold side turbo fans.
Is there a way to remove the snapped stud? Such as the double nut technique, if there are any threads showing at all.?
Likely there will be more snapped studs.
Set of gaskets and replacement studs from the turbo manifold, out, etc. is about $1500.
Better set priorities and a budget.
Given his wastegate axle is loose, indicating a lot of use, I would wonder if there a surprise waiting when he can take a look at the cold side turbo fans.
Is there a way to remove the snapped stud? Such as the double nut technique, if there are any threads showing at all.?
Likely there will be more snapped studs.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post10669635
12-12-20, 11:59 PM
#33
Full Member
Thread Starter
I already suggested spending $2500 on his rat's nest lol!
Set of gaskets and replacement studs from the turbo manifold, out, etc. is about $1500.
Better set priorities and a budget.
Given his wastegate axle is loose, indicating a lot of use, I would wonder if there is a surprise waiting when he can take a look at the cold side turbo fans.
Is there a way to remove the snapped stud? Such as the double nut technique, if there are any threads showing at all.?
Likely there will be more snapped studs.
Set of gaskets and replacement studs from the turbo manifold, out, etc. is about $1500.
Better set priorities and a budget.
Given his wastegate axle is loose, indicating a lot of use, I would wonder if there is a surprise waiting when he can take a look at the cold side turbo fans.
Is there a way to remove the snapped stud? Such as the double nut technique, if there are any threads showing at all.?
Likely there will be more snapped studs.
12-13-20, 12:03 AM
#35
Full Member
Thread Starter
12-13-20, 12:09 AM
#37
Drill and sleeve
There is a technique to drill out the stud and put a sleeve in the resulting hole so a new stud/bolt can go in. I have no idea if that would work here. If you move to remove your twin turbos (they come out as a unit), you are likely to break some more studs. And, as I indicated, likely you should replace all the gaskets, in that area.
Porting will cause runability issues, and probably better done if you plan to get an aftermarket ecu.
Your ecu is likely 25 years old, so how many years more can it last?
No cat? You may have backpressure issues the stock ecu will not like.
Porting will cause runability issues, and probably better done if you plan to get an aftermarket ecu.
Your ecu is likely 25 years old, so how many years more can it last?
No cat? You may have backpressure issues the stock ecu will not like.
Last edited by Redbul; 12-13-20 at 12:11 AM. Reason: added info.
12-13-20, 12:21 AM
#38
Full Member
Thread Starter
There is a technique to drill out the stud and put a sleeve in the resulting hole so a new stud/bolt can go in. I have no idea if that would work here. If you move to remove your twin turbos (they come out as a unit), you are likely to break some more studs. And, as I indicated, likely you should replace all the gaskets, in that area.
Porting will cause runability issues, and probably better done if you plan to get an aftermarket ecu.
Your ecu is likely 25 years old, so how many years more can it last?
No cat? You may have backpressure issues the stock ecu will not like.
Porting will cause runability issues, and probably better done if you plan to get an aftermarket ecu.
Your ecu is likely 25 years old, so how many years more can it last?
No cat? You may have backpressure issues the stock ecu will not like.
12-13-20, 12:21 AM
#39
Banker weighs in too
I bought the gaskets and studs from Mazda, so likely overpaid. Exhaust manifold gaskets (2) were C$180 each. Studs were like C$15 each. You can reuse, or find ok used, I suppose.
I have accumulated fifteen sets of used twin turbos. So I'd be interested in how the refurbishment thing works.
I have accumulated fifteen sets of used twin turbos. So I'd be interested in how the refurbishment thing works.
12-13-20, 12:27 AM
#40
Full Member
Thread Starter
I bought the gaskets and studs from Mazda, so likely overpaid. Exhaust manifold gaskets (2) were C$180 each. Studs were like C$15 each. You can reuse, or find ok used, I suppose.
I have accumulated fifteen sets of used twin turbos. So I'd be interested in how the refurbishment thing works.
I have accumulated fifteen sets of used twin turbos. So I'd be interested in how the refurbishment thing works.
12-13-20, 12:37 AM
#41
FSM for You
Better get an Factory Service Manual before going much further. Use it as a pillow for a week or so and you will be good to go.
There was a link to a three part manual on a recent thread. Use the search function to find links for manuals.
The air pump has a "do not remove this air pump" plaque on it. I saw it in one of your pictures above.It is under the "crossover pipe" which feeds the intercooler.
The ecu is located in the drivers footwell sidewall (LHD). It is not hard to access. You can see if it has been replaced by a power FC or other.
There was a link to a three part manual on a recent thread. Use the search function to find links for manuals.
The air pump has a "do not remove this air pump" plaque on it. I saw it in one of your pictures above.It is under the "crossover pipe" which feeds the intercooler.
The ecu is located in the drivers footwell sidewall (LHD). It is not hard to access. You can see if it has been replaced by a power FC or other.
12-13-20, 12:39 AM
#42
Full Member
Thread Starter
Better get an Factory Service Manual before going much further. Use it as a pillow for a week or so and you will be good to go.
There was a link to a three part manual on a recent thread. Use the search function to find links for manuals.
The air pump has a "do not remove this air pump" plaque on it. I saw it in one of your pictures above.It is under the "crossover pipe" which feeds the intercooler.
The ecu is located in the drivers footwell sidewall (LHD). It is not hard to access. You can see if it has been replaced by a power FC or other.
There was a link to a three part manual on a recent thread. Use the search function to find links for manuals.
The air pump has a "do not remove this air pump" plaque on it. I saw it in one of your pictures above.It is under the "crossover pipe" which feeds the intercooler.
The ecu is located in the drivers footwell sidewall (LHD). It is not hard to access. You can see if it has been replaced by a power FC or other.
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b3delta (12-13-20)
12-13-20, 12:47 AM
#46
Full Member
Thread Starter
I’ll have to check when I can. I want to get her running soon I’m getting depressed. I want to get it running now so I can space out the parts a bit. I definitely want gauges so I can see what’s going on.
12-13-20, 12:47 AM
#47
This Link is worth its weight in Gold
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...TtRMWrkQL_8wxQ
You can send thanks to Zepticon for orginally posting this.
You can send thanks to Zepticon for orginally posting this.
12-13-20, 01:03 AM
#48
You are in the right place
You are in the right place. The RX7 community is full of great people who are willing to help. Look at the number of 15 year members on here willing to give you advice. I think there is a strong group of owners in Florida. Try to get to their meets. Find a local mentor. Find out who is parting out cars, so you can get used parts more cheaply.
Boost gauge and AFR gauge recommended.
12-13-20, 01:07 AM
#49
Full Member
Thread Starter
You are in the right place. The RX7 community is full of great people who are willing to help. Look at the number of 15 year members on here willing to give you advice. I think there is a strong group of owners in Florida. Try to get to their meets. Find a local mentor. Find out who is parting out cars, so you can get used parts more cheaply.
Boost gauge and AFR gauge recommended.
Boost gauge and AFR gauge recommended.