First Rotary
 

I recently purchased my very first rotary. It's a 93 for the most part stock from what I can see. I'm experiencing some troubles with keeping it running after start. RPMs are low until it dies out. I'm planning to do fuel pump and plugs. I started it this morning it was cold so I let it warm up, I ran inside to make my breakfast shake before leaving for work and came out to a stalled car. After that it would not start, I pulled the EGI fuse and with the gas pushed down I cranked it for 15 seconds as I saw someone saw to do on here. After doing it twice the car started but it didn't want to stay on. So I took another car to work. When I got home I decided I'd turn the key just once and see if it would start. It did, but seemed like it was starving. I want to try a fuel pump and plugs, I'm looking at the walbro 255. Can I run this on a stock FD? Do I need to change anything else to make it work? As far as I know the only mods are exhaust and a boost timer, previous owner believes the rad has been upgraded but I haven't checked under the plastic.

1. How old is the fuel?
2 . Do you have a contact to run the diagnostic codes?
3. What condition are the plugs?
4. Is the alternator going?

1.Fuel is fresh and premixed 1 oz to 1 gal
2.I have access to a million ob2 scanners but no ob1, and I don’t know anyone who knows how to read the blinks. Also check engine light isn’t on.
3. I’ve not had a chance to check the ones in there but the plugs are cheap I was going to replace them regardless. I was going to ask about platinum vs copper for the plugs if that has any effect other than platinums are supposed to last longer. The plats are not stocked.
4. I’ve not checked. I should be able to tomorrow or this weekend.

1. Sock for fuel intake could be sucking up debris.
2, Search this site for downloads of the FSM (Factory Service Manual). That will give you the codes.
3. What is exhaust pipe telling you? Coolant smell? Fuel smell? Black smoke? Blake smoke could indicate burning oil and fouling plugs,
4. Is cat clogged and providing too much back pressure?
5. Check TPS? Why is the ecu telling the motor to idle slowly?
6. Replace O2 sensor. ($50).

It sounds like it may have flooded. Before doing anything else, put in new plugs.

Advance Auto Parts typically stocks the BUR7EGP and BUR9EQP plugs. Here in rinky-dink Pensacola I can get them in town at Advance.

I wouldn't get too excited with doing the fuel pump, but I would pull the pump and make sure the tank and pump look OK and it isn't a horrible mess in there.

How many miles are on the car? Do you know the health of the engine - either if it was replaced or do you have a compression test?

Welcome aboard!

Dale

Odo is broken l, I think it fell in? But the title was 120k three months ago. As far as the previous owner knows the engine is original. Do they compression test the same as a normal engine because if they do I can. I ordered new plugs from advance already and new plug wires. The wires will be here Wednesday the plugs I should have today.
No black smoke I think I’ve had some blue though.

I’m going to pull the pump tonight. I’ll be sure to save that manual somewhere. Exhaust I think has given blue on start up but that’s it. Not sure about the cat but I do have a brand new one in the trunk that came with the car. Makes me wonder why it’s there. I’ll see if advance carries any o2

Car will generally start, run, and drive with a bad or broken O2 sensor. The old 1-wire O2 sensors were pretty crap. Big difference is fuel economy on a stock setup sucks with a bad O2.

Rotary engines need a different compression test to get good numbers. You can use a piston tester to get a general idea of blown/not blown, but knowing how worn or how tight it is requires a rotary tester. May want to see if there's a local rotary FB group or something that has the proper tester.

Wires aren't as big of a deal as plugs. Also NGK wires are the way to go, any cheeseball ones will fall apart on you. The NGK's last for damn ever and are like $25 for the set. If you have the plugs, go ahead and swap them out and worry about wires another day.

Dale

Watch your head
 

Some compression testers might screw too far in the spark plug hole and could damage your seals. This is one reason the spark plugs look like they do (flat top).

Make sure you reconnect the coils to the plugs in the right locations.

If going to a shop for a compression test consider having a "smoke test" to find any vacuum hose or other air leaks.

If you start diving into the vaccum lines and solenoids, be very mindful that they could break. Get proper tools for pulling vacuum lines and be very careful (dish detergent helps).

If you have original (25 year old) solenoids perhaps look into replacement cost before diving in.

So I’m in the hood in proper light now and I found a rats nest.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0d60f9784.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1d1d24a49.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...13b077548.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...05f3e5017.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d5c2d0f13.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...60935affe.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dc2dbca6e.jpeg

Fuel pump removed
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3e1ebbb7a.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e83b6103a.jpeg

Doesn't look like the usual sock.

Vacuum hoses have been redone at some point. The red one shows how that type of hose can split. The jagged ends are prone to splitting. I recommend a smoke test. You will want to download the electrical troubleshooting manual and the Wiring diagrams. Completely new engine harness are about $1500, probably worth it right out of the gate. Set of new solenoids might be about $1000 to gather together. Braided vacuum hose in 3mm and 6mm would be better. You will need about 19 feet. Run your codes. Look inside your ecu to see if it is pristine. VIN indicates your car is about 28 years old. That is very old age for plastics that have been subject to many "heat cycles". Start looking for a replacement TPS.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1d1d24a49.jpeg

is that even the stock pump? I didn’t think it was

That blue and orange connector might be for the air pump. If so the air pump might not be working.

See if the air pump connector is attached to anything. Should be found on top of the air pump.

That is likely you UIM to firewall ground. Best to check all your grounding points.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...13b077548.jpeg

Yeah. I don't know. Better find out. A bad/cheap fuel pump replacement at the beginning of my rebuild, was not discovered until "dyno day" at the end of the build.

So other than all the random connectors that are disconnected and I have no idea what they are, I have an exhaust leak. And I sound like a lawn mower. I guess that’s first on the list along with the spark plugs I just got.

Examples
 

Here is my UIM to firewall ground. Important ground. Second picture is the disconnected air pump connector. I am just using the air pump as a pulley, so it is not connected.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0c3ade850d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bf3a9a5bff.jpg

Is the O2 sensor screwed in? Located at the top of the downpipe?

the o2 is indeed there, is that the only one?

Why delete the air pump? It’s emissions right? Is that a safe mod?

Could be a bung for an aftermarket AFR sensor. Remove that for a lawnmower sound. But likely its gasket failure.

Feed the poor.
 

They eliminated smog testing here. 98% of modern cars passed. So the remaining 2% was old cars (likely owned by poorer people). Therefore, it was acting as a tax on the poor. They already had an exception that you did not have to spend more than $2500 to make your car compliant.

You can still get ticketed and likely you'd have to pay to get the smog stuff reconnected.

Still have the stock cat.

Air pump, through the ACV, recirculates the air back to the intake box most of the time in any event.

Stock ecu needs to have the air entering the exhaust stream before the O2 sensor . It is calibrated to expect that air to be there.

I have a Power FC ecu.

We don’t have emissions here either in Florida. I’m going to go take a look at my ecu and see whats up with it if it’s stock or aftermarket. If the pumps already deleted it might be easier to just get the new ecu but I need to figure out what’s going on with these wires I’d like to not have to buy a new wiring harness.