1. oil/coolant gaskets
2. oil/coolant gaskets
3. oil/coolant gaskets
4. gaskets for the twins to y pipe
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. look like crush washers for omp?
10.
11. crush washers for the oil cooler.. inlet front of engine block, outlet by oil filter neck
12.
13.
14. omp oring
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.

 

LoL this is why I kept all my parts in the little baggies with the P/N's on them to cross reference the parts diagram during my build. I knew it would confuse the hell out of me hehe

 

I did baggies also, I can pretty much gauge where the washers and gaskets will go but it just seems like a lot of o rings and I just dont know yet where they'll be going :P

 

RA OMP adapter runs into the turbo oil return, so I had to do some trimming of the plastic connector...





Element proofing



RA adapter installed



New custom OMP lines built by yours truly



How it sits now, rats nest isn't bolted in yet because I'm waiting for my primaries to come back from RC, already have new 1300s

 

Bueller? help with post 97 and 101?

 

nice build. bro

 

Thanks dude

 

5, 6 and 13 look like the orings for the top part of the coolant neck (remove 2 bolts where cap is to get to oring), the oil neck and one might be for the oil level sensor in the oil pan. It's hard to tell just looking at them.

19 looks like the 2 located under the oil filter pedestal.

Just go through the parts manual/FSM and on each step compare the old oring size to what you have there.

 

Thanks, I will try my best, whats really getting me is number 10, there is like a copper spacer in the center...

 

I believe those #10 rings were used in the OMP oil injector bosses on some engines.
But, you would NEVER want to use them in that location unless your housings came factory with them as there would not be sufficient space.

I did a complete rebuild on a '93 touring not long ago and my housings did not require them so I discarded same.

Ted

 

Interesting, I never saw anything that looked like them when I did the tear down...

Well the primary injectors come today from RC so a lot will be getting done

 

Started the car today! first try!

unfortunately there is a fuel leak so I had to shut it off once I noticed it 10 min later... I did the pulsation dampener delete so I think its coming from that area, the fuel runs down the rear iron so that's why I think its that area.

Fuel system is 550 1300 both from RC with their o rings

I will try to pull the uim off after work today and report back

 

Fuel leak is fixed, adjusted the tps, idles perfectly at 800, and took her for her first drive, damn that feels good!

 

Congrats, now enjoy. How long did it take from start to finish?. I think I will do that in a couple of months although the car is apparently doing fine, but based on its age, I want to rest assured that i can count on it when traveling far from home...

 

i just got my fd and im considering doing the same in a few weeks. your thread has given me all the inspiration i need lol. great job with everything

 

Awesome thread. I must get hold of this dvd. Also, is it common to wire brush all your rotors and housings like that? Just thinking about scratching/gouging that's all?

 

Thank you all for the nice comments, the car currently has 400 miles logged! with no other hiccups!

Start to finish was a little over 3 months but most of may was nothing because of waiting on parts and finals at school.

I dont know how common it is, but on banzi's website they have videos and it was recommended to use a wire wheel on the rotors I dont think the brass is hard enough to scratch the metal but it destroyed all the rust and carbon, now the housings were sent to goopy performance to have their refinishing service done.

 

 

Plans now are break in, custom smic, alcohol injection, tune, custom "M2 like" intake, battery relocation

 

you really should have the SMIC duct in place and just cover the holes you don't need.

 

Ya Ill get on it asap thanks