*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

[Soooo Engine is out today and a 1/4 of the way disassembled totaling in 8 hours plus about 3 hours yesterday.
It was unbelievable how much water came out of the spark plug holes when I cranked the engine by hand at least 3 cups total in both housings...
waiting for a friends engine stand to mount it to. Basically the car has 120k miles Im unsure if the engine was rebuilt previously or what,
Ive had it since 90k, is there any way to tell? I have been using the RA removal dvd and
the forums and It worked out great thus far.Any comments appreciated.

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

Your 4 door is faster than your sportscar lol

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Looks good. Take your time, take pictures & label things. Buy a box of zip-lock bags & some freezer tape. Keep all bolts and small pieces together & label them. This will help.

I'd highly recommend doing some more work while the engine is out. I don't know your plans for modifications, but now is the perfect time for a new clutch, fuel, ditching emissions, PFC, single turbo, upgraded radiator, intercooler, and all the goodies.

Obviously you may not be able to afford it all, but do the essentials. Another great time to get that engine bay SUPER clean.

GL OP

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Fun isn't it? I pulled my engine last year and it was an absolute blast. A lot easier than people would think but like everyone said, get painters tape and just mark every connector so you know where to connect everything again. Same thing goes for any nuts/bolts. Zip lock bag and label them.

Take your time and do everything right the first time around and you won't spend time tracing down any problems. I was amazed that my car started up first time turning the key after dropping it back it. I have put around 1500 miles on the car since I've got it running and tuned and it goes back the 18th for another Steve Kan session with water injection.

Good luck!

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

Thank you every one for the advise, I have been zip locking bolts left and right and placing them on top to their respected parts on a table. I would absolutely like to make some modifications if money allows, but unfortunately living here in the PRC (Peoples Republic of California) Emissions have to stay :/

Also I was thinking Manual steering rack and ditching the A/C what do you guys think?

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

I ditched my AC living here in CA. When it's really hot, I just drive with no shirt and just my underwear.

greenday_5606

No shirt and in your underwear in a fd...well that's just every mans dream

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

haha good point, glad I don't have leather! working on a mount adapter for the engine now, couple more hours and I'll be done

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

PS can definitely go. I like my car much better without it.

A/C I would keep. As I kept mine. You will have to get innovative with no PS but keeping the AC. Issue is running the idler. Not impossible though.

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

Thanks XL, You mean innovative by trying to figure out the belt?

Some Progress from yesterday, almost a short block now

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

Just waiting for my RA rebuild DVD and a proper engine stand adapter and I'll be tearing this motor apart.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

+1 on the RA Bruce video. You are in good hands!

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

I happy to hear that, And my pineapple adapter came today took 2 and a half days! very happy!

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

QFT

pluto

orginial factory engine with paper intake gasket... suprised you didn't get any vacuum leak...

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

Oh it did have a vac leak and a pretty rough idle, you cant see in the picture but there is a big piece missing from the gasket after I pulled the LIM off. So do you think the paper gasket could be evidence of the engine being an original non rebuilt engine? cause it has 120k miles

Looks like Ill try to convert the rack

Got the RA DVD today and have watched half of it, very excited to start the tear down, anyone know a good place to buy the micrometers and dial indicators?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Figure an Oil pan Brace during re-assembly.
*Send the injectors out for cleaning and flow testing
*Inspect, do a continuity check and re-wrap the engine harness. I like the silicone fusion tape.
*Good time for new plug wires and coil harness.
*The metal front cover gasket comes highly recommended over the standard orange one that normally comes in the gasket kits.
*Replace or delete the FPD. Banzai has a how-to on deletion.
*If the car is primarily street driven I'd keep BOTH the A/C and PS.

wstrohm

Strongly advise you to delete the EGR valve and block-plate the holes. The later EGR gasket has a hole that's so small it fills and blocks up with carbon anyway. We pass CA emissions with no problems after deleting the EGR system; its presence was a political decision, not a technical one, since the rotary already recycles some exhaust gas due to its design. However, if you do that, you will need to make a change to the EGR sensor circuitry to avoid a CEL. (Circuit here)... can be added next to the PCME (ECU) or put in the engine compartment. I also removed the EGR system's solenoid valve in the rack; it gives you a spare solenoid. (Remember to plug vacuum source or there will be a leak.)

The 2010 CA emissions test on our '94 FD with the EGR system removed looked like this. Note in the upper left listing that "EGR Visual" passed and "EGR Functional" was "N/A." Also note the sniffer test results. This was on the original (nearly) stock engine at 101,861 miles. Clearly removal of the EGR system does not hurt emission test results.

pluto

from the looks of it, it looks like an orginal engine. Mazda changed to the metal gasket in 96 or 97 from paper. If it was a mazda reman, you should have a plate next to your trigger sensor saying mazda remanufacture.....

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

Great Suggestions! I have been eying their oil pan brace, on the ps and a/c its going to drivin half and half street and track

Thank you very much for the helpful links! I was already throwing egr codes when I pulled the engine and was wonder what I should do so thanks!


Ok, interesting, where is the trigger sensor if you dont mind me asking? and is this some kind of record then for longest lasting original engine? 120k HAHA

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I think he means the trigger wheel on the back of the main crank pulley. It "triggers" the CAS...Crank Angle Sensor. Remans have a metallic tag just above there glued to the front cover.
I agree that if you still had a paper UIM to LIM gasket, it's probably the original engine.

pluto

I don't think you have the highest mileage on the orginal engine. I thought Batman replaced his original at 200k miles... but I think you might be one of the few that still has the original engine lasted this long in the car.

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

well just checked and there is no stamp, and with the paper gasket it must be original, that makes me feel better, I must have done something right right to have maintained it for the past 30k, No updates though, need to remove that huge 54mm flywheel nut before I can tear into the engine

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

just went on a $200 tool shopping spree :P feels like Christmas, found the flywheel nut at tractor supply co for $14 compared to sears at $30... let the work begin!

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

Ok huge progress report,

-Engine is fully disassembled
-Rust on the rotors comes off with slight rub so no pitting that I can tell
-side housing step wear by touch is very minimal, I have a dial gauge to tell for sure.
-water seal damage seen in pictures, some spots almost 3 inches of seal missing
-No obvious damage done, will have to wait to clean the parts before I can take measurements

Can anyone give me an idea of what seals I should reuse and what I should not? Bruce reuses springs and side seals in the video, I kinda want new everything in there so I can have piece of mind, but maybe Im wrong...