Guys. Think the injectors are stuck.

I connected two alligator clips to the secondary injector and put one on the ground where the UIM goes and the other I touched the 12v battery positive terminal with. No sound.

This is crazy considering I spent good money to get them cleaned and flow tested but I guess it’s the cleaning solution. To free them, someone said to tap the head of them while I attempt the click test? Can I tap the metal cover that secures them in the fuel rail or do I have to unscrew that? Man it’ll be hard to get to the primaries that’s for sure considering my setup is stock

 

I haven't seen it myself but I've heard it's common for injectors to get stuck if they sit for a while after cleaning. Something about the cleaning solutions commonly used tends to gum up when it dries out. Some manufacturers or shops will ship injectors in small sealed bags to avoid them drying out. You might be able to get your unstuck by connecting 12V repeatedly while running carburetor cleaner through them. Here's an example of a pretty nice DIY setup on a Subaru which has side-feed injectors similar to the OEM RX7 injectors:

 

no way to do this with the injectors still in the fuel rail? With the caps on? Because I have the stock setup and now I’m dreading taking off a ton of vaccum lines again but if that’s what I have to do that’s what I have to do

 

Maybe take the whole rail out as a unit and work on them that way. (See above).

 

You might be able to use your old harness to set up a test rig, if it still has the injector plugs attached. Strip out the wires, leaving them connected to the plugs.

I had a bin of about 20 old injectors. They had been sitting around for who knows how long.

I took them to a shop and had them tested.

About 80% still worked.

 

Just in time for Christmas:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/355154311698...Bk9SR9CCwe6RYw

 

I don't know if you want the carburetor cleaner getting into the engine. It might be OK if you change the oil quickly, but I can't predict if it's worth the risk. I agree it's a lot of work removing the vacuum lines, it's not quick and there's risk of damaging solenoids or causing drivability problems by making mistakes during the disassembly / reassembly process.

 

Hey guys I can easily get the secondaries out of the rail with the rail still in the car and the primaries are harder to unscrew the caps but I think I can do it with my torque screwdriver and an extension! Was very happy to hear that. Got busy so will finish attempting primaries tomorrow.

Now the big question is how to unstick them…With Christmas around the corner if I send them back to the guys who cleaned them I’ll probably get them back near the end of January. If I can unstick them myself I can drive sooner.

what do you guys think? I already had them cleaned in October but do you think it’s better if I send them out or try to free them myself?

 

Well, the shop that just refurbished my set is actually working on a spare set for me.

I'd expect they'd finish soon.

The refurb includes spare rails.

The cost is likely close to C$600 including eight new seals.

 

Last night, when we went to put the rails back in we looked into the LIM below the injectors. In the LIM there is a diffuser that helps the injected gas bounce into the chamber. Between it and the injector there is a hard rubber spacer. We found than mine were swollen and deformed. Luckily I had a spare NIB set.

You might want to take a look to see the condition of yours.

Surprising the deflector is made of hard plastic and looks very frail.

I have seen cases where they break.

It looked like my deflectors are OK, but we did not want to risk removing.

 

Pic below shows the residue of my spacers and the frayed vacuum line that was running to my FPR.


Injectors Parrs Ref. No.

Dintegrated spacers

PN of replacement spacers.

 

yup I changed all this myself including brand new diffusers during my maintenance

 

I wouldn't be surprised if your primary injectors are stuck shut. It happened to me, I sent out both primary and secondary injectors to a reputable company; they sat for a couple months as I got everything together to reassemble the fuel system and undo a bunch of poorly executed mods before I could get it back together. When the car was up and running, I found the secondary's completely stuck - even with battery voltage applied they would not budge. Total hassle, I bought new secondary inj for $$, put them in and fixed the problem. Got real good at R&R of the intake over this issue. Not sure if it's just FD injectors or what, I have had injectors cleaned for some other cars before where they sat for awhile and never had this problem. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the engine fell on its face at around 3500RPM, never imagined that the injectors that were working would no longer work - and both of them at that. As a last resort after looking at EVERYTHING for a problem I checked the injectors and that was where the problem was. Replaced them. Fixed. At least in my case my car started and ran, it would have been much worse if it had been the same as OP's situation.

Don't think I will ever mess with cleaning injectors for FD again, or if I do I will hit them with 9v before installation to make sure then actually work.

 

Always good to have a spare at a reasonable price:

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/...uggest_history

 

Guys sorry for the wait.

reason for the wait was because one of those screws on the injector caps the primary one got stripped so I tried drilling it out and using fine valve grinding compound. Rubber band etc. all the tricks under the moon and nothing worked until I found some extra strong pliers and that worked.

so I pulled the injectors with the rats nest, everything on the stock FD still on and then performed a click test again with them out of the car and guess what? They don’t click. They’re stuck. So I’m sending them back

 

Yup - the injector cleaning/testing company I use for my F2000 Zetec injectors sends them to me in vacuum sealed bags. They can sit for years that way and will work if they're quickly installed and used after opening the bags. The cleaning fluid turns to varnish if exposed to air for any extended period.

 

I was going to mention the stuck machine screws are sometimes a pain. Sorry.

Aware of that potential problem, i had the entire set of rails removed (four big bolts) and let the injector shop worry about those screws.

The shop needed the rails in any event to set up for testing.

******************

With my shiny cleaned injectors back in, the car is running quite rich. We guess it was tuned on the old injectors. So next step is to go for a retune.


*************

I have heard that the Power FC can run stock set-up, but have never actually met anyone with that arrangement. It is important to know if it works, because if you want to "stay sequential" the alternative is to stay with a 30 year old stock ECU.

 

Hey guys I have half a year old gas in the tank and if I don’t want to drain it (difficult with my driveway being inclined like crazy) do you guys think I can get away with simply letting it idle for a long time? Let it burn off mostly with idle and then I can go bring it 5 fresh gal and then drive it to the gas station?

is idling dangerous too? I heard when gas sits it loses grade and I don’t want my engine to detonate or something

 

IMO, driving the car gently is much less detrimental to the engine than extended idling. Just stay out of boost by driving gently and you'll be OK. If it were me, I'd drive it to the gas station right off the bat and dilute the old stuff with the fresh gas, then drive conservatively until it's time to get gas again. 6-month old gas shouldn't be in that bad shape to cause any issues anyway. Normally aspirated RX7's (I owned an FB for 12+ years) were notable that they ran fine on regular, so if you stay out of boost you'll be OK.

 

yeah I got half a tank of that bad gas so I was thinking of also driving it gently and getting it diluted. Guess I’ll just take it for long drives at night when traffic is gone driving like a grandma around town to empty it

 

Drain it. It can't be that hard.

* Based on 30 hours and $5000 to recover from a tank of bad gas.

 

Wait, is the car running or not?

Six month old gas is a non-issue. Just fill it up with new gas.

 

What about if the gas is green?

 

https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shoppin...m%20the%20tank.

 

better than brown!