FD won’t start CAS issue?
12-05-23, 09:40 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
12-06-23, 03:49 AM
#28
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Update
so I put starting fluid in the throttle body and guess what? It started making ignition sounds. Motor started moving but then it died.
so I’m guessing there’s no fuel going to the car?
if the car was making ignition sounds does that mean the crank angle sensors are connected right?
As for fuel I was sure it was getting fuel before because I actually had a leak at the hose that connects to the fuel pressure dampener whenever I’d try to start the car fuel would leak from there.
also my apexi shows injector duty so I’m confused here. Any other way to check if fuel is going into the motor? What could even be the issue I’ve got the connectors connected correctly. I was thinking of starting it without starter fluid and checking if spark plugs were wet
so I put starting fluid in the throttle body and guess what? It started making ignition sounds. Motor started moving but then it died.
so I’m guessing there’s no fuel going to the car?
if the car was making ignition sounds does that mean the crank angle sensors are connected right?
As for fuel I was sure it was getting fuel before because I actually had a leak at the hose that connects to the fuel pressure dampener whenever I’d try to start the car fuel would leak from there.
also my apexi shows injector duty so I’m confused here. Any other way to check if fuel is going into the motor? What could even be the issue I’ve got the connectors connected correctly. I was thinking of starting it without starter fluid and checking if spark plugs were wet
12-06-23, 04:07 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
I say this because when I crank and it doesn’t attempt to start I do smell gasoline from the exhaust. So injectors must be spraying right? Also on my apexi injector duty goes up
12-06-23, 10:04 PM
#33
I see a pattern here 
re: is it getting fuel, did you consider pulling a leading plug to see if it’s either wet or dry after attempting a crank over?
edit: apparently I wasn’t at the end of the replies, but what ^^he said.
.
re: is it getting fuel, did you consider pulling a leading plug to see if it’s either wet or dry after attempting a crank over?
edit: apparently I wasn’t at the end of the replies, but what ^^he said.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-06-23 at 10:07 PM.
12-07-23, 12:05 AM
#34
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Thread Starter
ya going to do that tomorrow and check, was a little busy today. Will give it a crank without starter fluid and see if the leading plugs are wet. Btw one time it kept running a bit off starter fluid (2 sec) after I shut the car off. Was weird.
after the starter fluid attempts it was clear it was just running off starter fluid because the exhaust smelt like starter fluid.
before starterfluid when I’d crank and it wouldn’t start at all I could smell gasoline in the exhaust. So I think it’s spraying the injectors but pulling plugs tomorrow will let me know for sure.
thanks for the help so far guys, I appreciate it! Will report back tomorrow
12-07-23, 12:19 AM
#35
I agree with the others who said that you just need to check the old-school mechanic basic things any engine needs to start: air, fuel (the proper amount, not too much or too little), compression, and a correctly-timed spark.
I don't have a PowerFC, but I think someone claimed that a PowerFC might try to fire injectors and coils even if the CAS signals are not correct. If you have a timing light, I would disconnect the fuel pump fuse and have someone crank the engine while you watch the timing mark on the crankshaft (eccentric shaft) pulley. That might be a little easier than swapping the CAS sensors.
I don't have a PowerFC, but I think someone claimed that a PowerFC might try to fire injectors and coils even if the CAS signals are not correct. If you have a timing light, I would disconnect the fuel pump fuse and have someone crank the engine while you watch the timing mark on the crankshaft (eccentric shaft) pulley. That might be a little easier than swapping the CAS sensors.
12-07-23, 06:10 PM
#36
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Thread Starter
I agree with the others who said that you just need to check the old-school mechanic basic things any engine needs to start: air, fuel (the proper amount, not too much or too little), compression, and a correctly-timed spark.
I don't have a PowerFC, but I think someone claimed that a PowerFC might try to fire injectors and coils even if the CAS signals are not correct. If you have a timing light, I would disconnect the fuel pump fuse and have someone crank the engine while you watch the timing mark on the crankshaft (eccentric shaft) pulley. That might be a little easier than swapping the CAS sensors.
I don't have a PowerFC, but I think someone claimed that a PowerFC might try to fire injectors and coils even if the CAS signals are not correct. If you have a timing light, I would disconnect the fuel pump fuse and have someone crank the engine while you watch the timing mark on the crankshaft (eccentric shaft) pulley. That might be a little easier than swapping the CAS sensors.
swapped the CAS sensors. Still no start. Now home is on top trigger is on bottom which I think is wrong and sometimes when I try cranking apexi reads 0 as the engine rpm. Sometimes it actually reads it correctly when cranking but overall no start
12-07-23, 06:25 PM
#38
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
alright update to everyone and you.
swapped the CAS sensors. Still no start. Now home is on top trigger is on bottom which I think is wrong and sometimes when I try cranking apexi reads 0 as the engine rpm. Sometimes it actually reads it correctly when cranking but overall no start
swapped the CAS sensors. Still no start. Now home is on top trigger is on bottom which I think is wrong and sometimes when I try cranking apexi reads 0 as the engine rpm. Sometimes it actually reads it correctly when cranking but overall no start
WHYYYYYYYYYYYY are you ******* with the CAS when you already knew you're getting spark?
Did you pull the plugs yet or not? Were they wet?
Don't do anything else until you look at the dang spark plugs. Just one spark plug will suffice!
I am going to go ahead and take a guess that you aren't getting fuel, since messing with the fuel system was why you took everything apart in the first place.
12-07-23, 06:55 PM
#39
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Thread Starter
WHYYYYYYYYYYYY are you ******* with the CAS when you already knew you're getting spark?
Did you pull the plugs yet or not? Were they wet?
Don't do anything else until you look at the dang spark plugs. Just one spark plug will suffice!
I am going to go ahead and take a guess that you aren't getting fuel, since messing with the fuel system was why you took everything apart in the first place.
Did you pull the plugs yet or not? Were they wet?
Don't do anything else until you look at the dang spark plugs. Just one spark plug will suffice!
I am going to go ahead and take a guess that you aren't getting fuel, since messing with the fuel system was why you took everything apart in the first place.
I did pull the leading trail plug but only after attempting to crank with starting fluid so the plug does look wet but it could just be starting fluid. The tip of the spark plug is also black now when they’re brand new and used to be silver.
I swapped the CAS connectors based off of recommendations from others. Attached is a pic of the spark plug I pulled
12-07-23, 07:08 PM
#41
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Thread Starter
other than that I made multiple attempts to deflood it by pulling egi fuse and cranking before and nada. Even starting fluid I thought would make the fuel in there combust but nada. So I’m thinking to use ATF on the spark plugs now?
so it’s getting gas, spark, and air. Should start. Should have compression too as it was very healthy running before it sat for 3 months to be serviced by me.
12-07-23, 07:16 PM
#43
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oh also will a too high premix ratio in the gas tank result in issues starting? I might have added a little too much premix so I’m thinking about adding another 5 gal of gasoline only. My OMP is still there
12-07-23, 07:34 PM
#44
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
what’s a good idea then? What if I left one spark plug hole unplugged overnight hoping the fuel will evaporate?
oh also will a too high premix ratio in the gas tank result in issues starting? I might have added a little too much premix so I’m thinking about adding another 5 gal of gasoline only. My OMP is still there
oh also will a too high premix ratio in the gas tank result in issues starting? I might have added a little too much premix so I’m thinking about adding another 5 gal of gasoline only. My OMP is still there
You can easily google how to do this.
A bit too much premix isn't going to stop the car from starting.
12-07-23, 08:09 PM
#45
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Thread Starter
To unflood a badly flooded car, you need to take all the plugs out, disable the EFI system (no fuel, no spark), and crank the car until you blast all the fluid out of the engine.
You can easily google how to do this.
A bit too much premix isn't going to stop the car from starting.
You can easily google how to do this.
A bit too much premix isn't going to stop the car from starting.
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scotty305 (12-07-23)
12-08-23, 09:11 AM
#47
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12-08-23, 11:05 AM
#49
Rotary Freak
^^^
Short of a manufacturing boo-boo, that would have been correct.
I'd enlist a helper if doing this alone! Bit harder to see with a centre electrode plug, but if you have it dark enough, cranking with the plugs out and in the leads you should see some evidence of them working if everything's good. Unless the injector plugs have been messed with somehow and EGI in place, there should be plenty evidence of fuel shooting out of the plug holes once the CAS wiring is corrected.
Originally Posted by Xion
They’re just labeled trigger and home and I put trigger on top where NE goes and home on bottom where G goes.
I'd enlist a helper if doing this alone! Bit harder to see with a centre electrode plug, but if you have it dark enough, cranking with the plugs out and in the leads you should see some evidence of them working if everything's good. Unless the injector plugs have been messed with somehow and EGI in place, there should be plenty evidence of fuel shooting out of the plug holes once the CAS wiring is corrected.
12-08-23, 06:34 PM
#50
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Thread Starter
^^^
Short of a manufacturing boo-boo, that would have been correct.
I'd enlist a helper if doing this alone! Bit harder to see with a centre electrode plug, but if you have it dark enough, cranking with the plugs out and in the leads you should see some evidence of them working if everything's good. Unless the injector plugs have been messed with somehow and EGI in place, there should be plenty evidence of fuel shooting out of the plug holes once the CAS wiring is corrected.
Short of a manufacturing boo-boo, that would have been correct.
I'd enlist a helper if doing this alone! Bit harder to see with a centre electrode plug, but if you have it dark enough, cranking with the plugs out and in the leads you should see some evidence of them working if everything's good. Unless the injector plugs have been messed with somehow and EGI in place, there should be plenty evidence of fuel shooting out of the plug holes once the CAS wiring is corrected.
so I took out all spark plugs and disconnected the harness that goes to the ignition coils. I also disconnected the EGI relay. I cranked and no fuel shot out but it did sort of smell like gasoline.
are you saying to leave egi in and disable ignition coils to see if it is at least injecting gasoline? That seems like a good idea