FD ring and pinion gear sets?
Thread Starter
Super Snuggles
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,091
Likes: 34
From: Redmond, WA
And just for laughs, a few comparisons...
1. McLaren F1
2. Pettit Banzai 20B
3. Chris Bergemann's 767 RWHP Supra Turbo
4. My car, best numbers from the list above
0-60 mph (seconds):
1. 2.81
2. 3.48
3. 2.97
4. 2.96 (3.00:1)
0-100 mph (seconds):
1. 7.01
2. 7.29
3. 6.77
4. 6.94 (4.11:1)
Quarter mile (seconds, mph):
1. 11.03 @ 133.11
2. 11.31 @ 129.66
3. 10.74 @ 137.16
4. 11.16 @ 132.86 (3.33:1)
0-200 mph (seconds):
1. 29.99
2. 32.82
3. 23.66
4. 27.09 (2.80:1)
Top Speed (mph, drag limited):
1. 231.78
2. 217.57
3. 213.32
4. 234.74 (3.45:1)
40-70 mph (seconds):
1. 1.95
2. 1.59
3. 1.71
4. 1.43 (3.70:1)
40-100 mph (seconds):
1. 4.79
2. 4.81
3. 4.17
4. 4.01 (2.80:1)
70-140 mph (seconds):
1. 7.87
2. 8.22
3. 6.97
4. 7.07 (2.91:1)
What does this prove? Nothing. Well, it proves that a 750+ RWHP Supra is pretty damn hard to beat.
However, it does indicate that depending on where you decided to pick your fight, that my car could be a very good contender from a roll with the right diff. ratio, and on slicks, a quarter mile shootout with the Supra would be really interesting.
It also indicates that for what I've spent on my conversion (and it could have been done a bit cheaper), that it's probably a fair trade for what it'd do to Pettit's Banzai 20B, in my opinion.
And finally, it goes without saying that coming very close or surpassing the performance of a McLaren F1 for about 1/10th the cost is a pretty good feat no matter which way you look at it.
So you be the judge... which differential ratio should I go with?
(all numbers calculated with street tires, 0.5 second shift delay, 0.2 second clutch engagement delay, published coefficient of drag, calculated frontal area, and so on, using Car Test 2000)
1. McLaren F1
2. Pettit Banzai 20B
3. Chris Bergemann's 767 RWHP Supra Turbo
4. My car, best numbers from the list above
0-60 mph (seconds):
1. 2.81
2. 3.48
3. 2.97
4. 2.96 (3.00:1)
0-100 mph (seconds):
1. 7.01
2. 7.29
3. 6.77
4. 6.94 (4.11:1)
Quarter mile (seconds, mph):
1. 11.03 @ 133.11
2. 11.31 @ 129.66
3. 10.74 @ 137.16
4. 11.16 @ 132.86 (3.33:1)
0-200 mph (seconds):
1. 29.99
2. 32.82
3. 23.66
4. 27.09 (2.80:1)
Top Speed (mph, drag limited):
1. 231.78
2. 217.57
3. 213.32
4. 234.74 (3.45:1)
40-70 mph (seconds):
1. 1.95
2. 1.59
3. 1.71
4. 1.43 (3.70:1)
40-100 mph (seconds):
1. 4.79
2. 4.81
3. 4.17
4. 4.01 (2.80:1)
70-140 mph (seconds):
1. 7.87
2. 8.22
3. 6.97
4. 7.07 (2.91:1)
What does this prove? Nothing. Well, it proves that a 750+ RWHP Supra is pretty damn hard to beat.
However, it does indicate that depending on where you decided to pick your fight, that my car could be a very good contender from a roll with the right diff. ratio, and on slicks, a quarter mile shootout with the Supra would be really interesting.
It also indicates that for what I've spent on my conversion (and it could have been done a bit cheaper), that it's probably a fair trade for what it'd do to Pettit's Banzai 20B, in my opinion.
And finally, it goes without saying that coming very close or surpassing the performance of a McLaren F1 for about 1/10th the cost is a pretty good feat no matter which way you look at it.
So you be the judge... which differential ratio should I go with?
(all numbers calculated with street tires, 0.5 second shift delay, 0.2 second clutch engagement delay, published coefficient of drag, calculated frontal area, and so on, using Car Test 2000)
Last edited by jimlab; Apr 1, 2002 at 07:04 PM.
As I already told you I'd go with 3.70 as I like peak G-forces and you don't get those with the higher rear ends. 1.6 Gs peak in 1st gear sounds great to me. The McClaren peak is about 1G in first. I did the CARTEST2000 on the McClaren.
Ken
Ken
I take it back, I'd stick with 4.11 because of the peak Gs and road perforamce when you floor it is always better, you just have to shift more often, nothing wrong with that.
Ken
Ken
Thread Starter
Super Snuggles
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,091
Likes: 34
From: Redmond, WA
But if you grab a lower gear at the wrong rpm, you're just going to get tire spin, not acceleration. Watch the Darius 240Z videos. Power is nothing if you can put it to work.
As far as road performance goes, the numbers show a 2.80 or 2.91 gear is going to perform better from a roll. I don't know about you, but it's tough to get a shift throw under 0.5 seconds.
As far as road performance goes, the numbers show a 2.80 or 2.91 gear is going to perform better from a roll. I don't know about you, but it's tough to get a shift throw under 0.5 seconds.
Originally posted by jimlab But if you grab a lower gear at the wrong rpm, you're just going to get tire spin, not acceleration. Watch the Darius 240Z videos. Power is nothing if you can put it to work.
I agree you are going to have "wheel spin" problems, especially with all that torque.
You talk about street tires. What are you using for "static friction" in CARTEST2000. I was using 2 for street and 3 for drag radials and 4 for slicks. The author of the program does not have a clue.
As far as road performance goes, the numbers show a 2.80 or 2.91 gear is going to perform better from a roll. I don't know about you, but it's tough to get a shift throw under 0.5 seconds.
I agree you are going to have "wheel spin" problems, especially with all that torque.
You talk about street tires. What are you using for "static friction" in CARTEST2000. I was using 2 for street and 3 for drag radials and 4 for slicks. The author of the program does not have a clue.
As far as road performance goes, the numbers show a 2.80 or 2.91 gear is going to perform better from a roll. I don't know about you, but it's tough to get a shift throw under 0.5 seconds.
Ken
'94 white, base, pep, red leather,
mods: street port & polished stage II, Hurley racing seals, upgraded coolant seals, PFS PMC, XS T04e single turbo kit, SMIC (400+cu.in.), Aquamist 2s water injection kit, Pettit ss resonated MP, Pettit ss cat-back, RP Racing fuel pump, 1200cc injectors, Profec B(10&15psi), Centerforce clutch,
under pulley kit(no air pump), Pettit short shifter kit, boost gauge, LaBreck's bushings, Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html
Jim,
Any date on the dyno tuning??
Any estimate when you'll actually have something you can drive on the road?
This is going to be the fastest car you've ever driven, I would guess. Do you really think you'll be able to control it?
I already have had people tell me I will not be able to control mine. I'm already a little concerned.
Dave at KDR tells me of at least two people that wrapped their new high powered cars around trees shorthly after they left with them. Not very funny.
Ken
Any date on the dyno tuning??
Any estimate when you'll actually have something you can drive on the road?
This is going to be the fastest car you've ever driven, I would guess. Do you really think you'll be able to control it?
I already have had people tell me I will not be able to control mine. I'm already a little concerned.
Dave at KDR tells me of at least two people that wrapped their new high powered cars around trees shorthly after they left with them. Not very funny.
Ken
Thread Starter
Super Snuggles
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,091
Likes: 34
From: Redmond, WA
No idea on the dyno or when the car will roll under its own power. You wouldn't believe the amount of stuff I'm still waiting on other people for...
I was told that the engine might dyno last weekend (it didn't), and my consolation prize was a couple pictures, one of which was posted above. However, they were taken over 4 weeks ago, so I don't have any pictures of it in the cell, or completed, although I do know what my valve covers look like now.
As you can see, the intake is pretty low profile. (compare it to the height of the valve covers) I gained some significant hood clearance and got a better flowing design.
When the engine is done being tuned, I'll have numbers (of course), video, and more pictures. Then it'll be on its way up, and as soon as I get a few important pieces, like my engine cradle, for example... I'll put it in the car.
I was told that the engine might dyno last weekend (it didn't), and my consolation prize was a couple pictures, one of which was posted above. However, they were taken over 4 weeks ago, so I don't have any pictures of it in the cell, or completed, although I do know what my valve covers look like now.
As you can see, the intake is pretty low profile. (compare it to the height of the valve covers) I gained some significant hood clearance and got a better flowing design.
When the engine is done being tuned, I'll have numbers (of course), video, and more pictures. Then it'll be on its way up, and as soon as I get a few important pieces, like my engine cradle, for example... I'll put it in the car.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Butte, MT
I don't know if this helps much but I ran into http://www.re-amemiya.co.jp/shopping/ and found a 3.909 gear set. It's a little hard to navigate but if you use http://babelfish.altavista.com/tr to translate the site you will have an easier time. The gear set is around $500. I also understand that RE Amemiya is selling products internationally.
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