Hey guys, in the manual it says not to remove the bridge bolts so it doesn't specify a torque spec.
I split mine to powder coat them. Do anyone know of a safe torque for these? Also, there isn't a number stamped on the head to indicate using the table at the end of the manual. Also, i had a couple that were a pain to remove so i decided to tap the threads. I'm pretty sure its m10x1.25 cause i compared the tap to the bolt and it lines up perfect. I did notice quite a bit of material being removed when i did this. I looks fine and the bolt threads in perfect. Anyone else done this?

Thanks,

Eddie

 

It probably says not to remove them for a reason. Those bolts hold the two sealed halves of the caliper together. Why didn't you just powder coat the whole assembly? I don't even think you can put the two back together without it pissing all over the place.

Matt

 

well mostly cause there were those two orings in there that probably wouldn't stand the 375 in powder coating. that and im stubborn lol.

 

See here

Matt

 

yeah i found that after i posted but just curious about the tap thing and if anyone else had similar experience.

 

well now i can probably guess why some material came out. I didn't realize the calipers were aluminum lol. I guess i assumed steel seeing as they were coated in that same green color that alot of the steel components were coated in, well it looked like it. I would say when a steel bolt is threaded and torqued into aluminum its going to deform the threads slightly.
I will let you know if there are any issues with re-tapping the threads.

 

I just rebuilt my front calipers (finished this morning). Last week I cleaned them, as I will be painting them with G2 when it arrives. In my cleaning, I unbolted those bridge bolts in order to get all that hard-to-reach gunk around the pistons. Upon seeing thje same thing you did, I paniced and found the already referenced thread. Long story short, I replaced the journal seals with those in my rebuild kit and reassembled the caliper halves with generous blue Loctite and torqued the bolts to 52ft-lb.

 

I just bought a spare caliper to steal the o-rings out of. Also i stripped two of the bolts trying to get them out, my stupidity. Didn't have a vise clamped to a table at the time and didn't apply heat. Did all that after and they came out very easy, damage already done of course.

 

You can't just measure the O rings and get new viton ones from McMasterCarr or something? I would never buy a used caliper to steal used o rings from it. O rings aren't designed to be re used...

 

Well the bolts too. And also just in case the tapping I done may cause issues later. I doubt it but I don't mind having some spares around.

 

The Fear mongering around a simple process is ridiculous. The whole point in coming to a forum like this is because we all love a rare care in a way that many may call perverse. Don't be afraid to open up every corner of your car and know every inch of her. The structural yield of a 10.9 steel bolt in aluminum is 20 fold what should be expected. in even the most abusive conditions.a brake system is never going to see north of 1000 psi . if you torque to 50 Ft-lbs everything should be fine. These cars of ours are not going to survive if we would rather spend on replacements rather than just fix the inherent issue.

 

My dude...
Why did you resurrect this thread just to **** all over it? Beefing-up your post count?

 

he's fear mongering his post count

 

Sometimes it's easy to miss the date on a post, and reply as though it was written yesterday? I'm going for the benefit of the doubt here, because I agree with him about opening up every corner of our cars :-). I think he should be congratulated for using the search function to find the thread in the first place!

Plus this thread was a really good read... I've got a spare pair of calipers sitting there to rebuild when I get to that part of the project :-). Nice of it to get bumped up the list ;-).