Hello folks,

What are some good options for brake replacement, rotors and pads?

I am not looking for big brake kit nor do I race and track my car; I've been looking at products from IRP, RX7.com and banzai racing;

But being fairly new to the game, I really have no idea what to choose.

Any input is much appreciated.

Thank you.

 

Really, OEM type blank rotors and good street performance pads is all you need. That and flush the brake fluid with some new fluid. The FD has top notch brakes, just get them working 100% and you are good.

"Street performance" is what you want to look for. Some pads are race pads that will eat up rotors and are super noisy, they are only for track use.

Cross drilled or slotted rotors won't give you any performance, they look neat though.

Painting calipers is also a nice easy thing to do, looks sharp.

Dale

 

I use Hawk HP pads on OEM rotors. I have thought about the 929 master cylinder upgrade to increase the piston size before trying to upgrade to a big brake kit since I like the stock calipers in the front. Anyone with any experience with the master cylinder upgrade?

 

Do you feel they are too sensitive? If you aren't putting larger or more cylinders at the calliper I really don't know why you would bother changing the master, the factory brakes seem pretty well weighted to me. Do you need a firmer pedal?

 

Agree that if you are NOT planning track time the OEM brakes are just fine.

OEM / equivalent blank rotors and any 'performance' pad will be just fine. I am very happy with Hawk HPS pads and use them on my RX-7 and on my Subaru STi with no concerns. Minimal dust, quiet and they grip better than stock. I am using EBC Red pads on my E63 and they are very nice as well for a street friendly pad that is superior to OEM and would use them on my RX-7 when needed.

Also FRESH brake fluid, and SS lines make for a very firm pad. I find that on the street I have yet to experience the need for more brakes. On moderate track use the stock brake system is still fine.

How old is the brake fluid you are using @BrianZhong ?

 

I like the looks of slotted rotors and look for the zinc coated versions which help keep them looking good. OEM aren’t coated. I think mine are Stop-tech at all four corners but there are others. The OEM pads are pretty good IMO, but currently running EBS RED pads and surprisingly they seem to make a little less dust but perform just as well or better.
A good time to check the pins and guides for wear.
I recall being fairly surprised at the solid pedal feel when I switched to stainless brake lines. I think you’d like that even for a streeted car. I also installed a master cylinder brace. Easy and not expensive. It helped too but wasn’t as dramatic as the stainless lines.
—-> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...eview-1124934/

 

I was wondering about the 929 master cylinder upgrade because it seemed like a easy way to increase stopping power. Slides, I don't think the pedal feel is too sensitive but compared to other sports cars I have driven it seems like it takes a bit more effort than I would expect for a such a light weight and great handling car as our FDs. I am dating myself here but Rob Robinette's old site recommended it. Chips Motorsports sells them as an FD upgrade. check out https://chipsmotorsports.com/product...inder-upgrade/

 

Remember the brakes on our cars are OLD at this point, it's hard to gauge what the brakes originally were like. Brake systems have a TON of things that affect how brakes feel, tiny little things make a difference.

I've never messed with the 929 master, but it may be worth doing since I believe the masters are NLA or at least hard to come by.

Zinc coated rotors are a great idea, it keeps the rotors looking good and not have rusty hubs and lips that look like crap.

Dale

 

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...th=144_371_372

Zeckhausen is a great option. All he does is brakes and used to own an FD. Plus he occasionally answers the phone if you want to talk to a human.
I'd probably lean towards the Hawk HPS 5.0 since I feel that the HPS just doesn't have enough bite to them.
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/p...ducts_id=28621

 

Really? I've used both the Hawk HPS and the HPS 5.0 pads on my FC and I honestly can't discern any differences between the two. I assumed the HPS 5.0 moniker was just a new marketing branding of the same old HPS pads, and since both are still available from the vendors I checked, I was planning on just getting whichever set costs less for the FD when it's time.

 

FD brakes are awesome. This goes for street and the track. Only upgrade necessary are pads.

And increasing the size of your MC bore actually decreases line pressure. It does increase volume, which is important if you start adding caliper pistons.

https://www.dentonisd.org/site/handl...apter%2010.pdf

 

I have not had good luck using aftermarket pads on street-driven cars, even ones that are supposedly for the street. They never seem to have the initial bite of an OEM pad (even after proper bedding in), and require 2-3 pedal applications before they feel responsive. Most people seem to have no problem with street pads like Hawk HP or StopTech Street though, so YMMV.

Agreed that the stock FD brake setup is quite good with fresh fluid/hardware. They also make rebuild kits for the OEM calipers. Brake master cylinder brace and stainless lines are worthwhile upgrades to increase pedal feel.

 

929 master won't change how the brakes function, it will just take more pressure to lock up the brakes. Your leg will be the only thing that knows anything was changed, the car won't care.

The only thing that will improve single stop performance is tire compound

 

Stoptech pads are crap IMO. I like EBC yellow in my other cars. FD gets DTC 60/30s, which are awesome on the track but completely suck on the street.

It's important to property bed the brakes, esp the higher performance pads

 

I absolutely destroyed a set of street/track pads on my Fd with only basic modifications at a free practice day in a relatively low speed track. I’m going to the factory big brakes and will run track specific pads. There is nothing more frustrating that having to finish your session and day early due to brakes.

 

Braking performance are determined by pad/rotor friction mu, tire/road surface friction mu, caliper/rotor swept area and heat dissipation for repeated full brakings.
I used and liked porterfield RS4? in late 90's autox days. Hawk black doesn't stop well cold early in the morning. Porterfield has more modulation between partial and full braking.

Earlier FD's or USDM 298? mm discs are fine unless you're doing 5+ time attack (not for fun power sliding) laps during the summer and there are plenty of pad makers.
929 masters simply gives you higher boiling point with more fluid capacity and more leverage to push the caliper pistons in while piston diameters and swept area stays the same.
I don't think there is a point in larger 929 masters if you have stock calipers and discs rather the pads matter the most.

While I did upgraded to 96+ optional 314mm or "17inch" brakes and 929 masters, I found that the swept area remains the same as they use the same caliper at the back and front calipers use offset sized pistons but of same swept area.
Couple differences are larger diameter rotor and more fluid both of which will have better heat dissipation.
I have not been to the track, as my FD just began crawling on the street after a long long time but I'm sure it is a upgrade but not more in an absolute braking stopping power rather for longer full performance brake use.
I'm sure OEM 17inch system will last longer firmly before 16inch kit brake pedal hits the floor in 10 laps but as far as absolute braking in a single stop goes they'd likely to perform the same.
FDs are light cars and with modern sticky tires braking performance are very good with well maintained stock system.

But then, a coolness factor?
AP/Brembo 6pots front 4pots at the back in that black/red color with slotted rotors sure do look good.
Yeah I painted them calipers red

 

Wish I had EBD for better trail turn in tho!

 

Where would be a good place to get OEM rotors? The dealership?

 

Aftermarket blanks (e.g. Centric) is just as good as OEM and probably a whole lot less than going to the stealership. If you want to dress it up a little, there's slotted but don't get drilled. They crack

 

to get Mazda stuff you need to buy from Mazda. aftermarket is fine, and basically every brake rotor comes from the same factory, so just buy on price/availability

 

This but does Mazda even still make FD rotors? I suspect they are all aftermarket now. They don't even make Miata rotors iirc.

OEM parts can be sourced at a nice discount from Ray Crowe.

 

I have not used the 5.0 but have used the HPS. I felt the HPS did not have enough bite. Judging by the description, it seems like the 5.0 addresses this. Hopefully...

Beyond that Hawks, I do agree with apexhittinbull on the Porterfields having better feel and bite but they are built to order.

For the other posters talking about big brakes and the 929 master cylinder, the OP does not track the car so it really doesn't apply to just a stock refresh / maintenance.

 

@BrianZhong
If your car is one of those low mileage super original versions and you want to keep it as OEM as possible then I’d recommend giving Ray Crowe a call too. My suspicion is that you’ll just get something like Centric vented iron rotors. Those will function just fine. But if you’re not fixed to OEM you could source something like Power Slot’s which will perform the same and with the zinc coating and painted hat, they’ll look good for a lot longer. And I doubt they’ll cost much more.

Brake Rotors (93+ RX-7)

 

+1 more for a good set of aftermarket rotors (Here's another name to make it even more confusing...Brembo) , some good performance/street pads (Porterfield R4-S are what I like) and a fluid flush. ATE is good stuff. If the pedal is feeling squishy after the flush, you might wanna think about new lines.

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...waAr33EALw_wcB

https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-1034.html

https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...!&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I boiled ATE. RBF