I went through emissions today and i failed. Really bad

Hydrocarbins, on a load (reading 388 standard 220)
hydrocarbins, idle (1175 220
carbon monoxide load (9.23 1.20
carbon monoxide idle (8.16 1.20


I have a new mazda rebuilt motor with all new vac. lines I changed out my power fc with my stock computer. I connected my air pump, mid cat pipe. The car is basically stock except for the intake and exhaust. How can I be failing so bad. My friends rx7 passed right through. And his car doesn't even run that great. I ran codes on the stock computer and it came back with a bad knock sensor. Could this cause the problem?? Please help this really sucks. Do I really ned the pre-cat?

 

anyone

 

Here's what my RX-7 got on it's emmision test. It's stock with 88k miles on it.
------------------------------Reading----------Allowed
Hydrocarbins, on a load---------24-----------------141
hydrocarbins, idle--------------23-----------------136
carbon monoxide load----------.05-----------------.79
carbon monoxide idle-----------.04-----------------.76

If you took it to the testing station without running it for about 30 minutes, this could be the case since you have no pre-cat and didn't allow for your main cat to warm up.

And no, you don't need a pre-cat as long as you allow the car to warm up before testing. The knock sensor could also be your cause as well.

 

I live in arizona. My car warms up in about 5 mins. I even got on it really hard on the way there. The guy i bought the car from lived in payson az were they don't require emissions. So the car has never required emissions I tried passing with no air pump. Big mistake. The guy at the emissions place told me that i had the worst reading of any car he had ever seen. He also told me hehas worked there for 10 years. Does anyone think I would have better luck with the p fc??? Thanks for the reply

 

Like I said, the knock sensor could be your problem. I'll talk to my step dad tomorrow as he's certified in Emission Testing.

 

It may only take 5 minutes for your engine to warm up, but your main cat may take at least 15 minutes to get nice and hot. Remember, the hotter your cat is, the more efficiently it works. Read this to learn how a catalytic converter works:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm

If you keep your revs up, then your cat will heat up faster (especially while making boost), so maybe some fast driving or driving in a lower gear will raise your cat's temps more quickly.

 

that link answered some other questions that would ask in the future.... thanks dude.

 

when u swaped out the PFC for the stock ECU did u remember to connect the 4 emmision wires?

 

eventhough your airpump might be hooked up, it sounds like it's not pumping.. I got similar readings on my first FD when the airpump wiring harness was shorting out against the airpump housing. The airpump itself has a cluch, the inside of the pulley should be spinning as well as what the belt is connected to. Check it, if it is, you might want to check and see if it is pumping any air. hope that pushes you in the right direction.

-Greg

 

You might try a search on this. I think there was a fairly big discussion about this recently. It talked about a lot of very interesting things you could do to help yourself pass. Things like not going into boost etc.
If it's not on this site, it's on the Lightning in a World of Thunder site. The Lightning site is worth looking at for tips about this topic anyway.
Good luck. I'm lucky, we only have emissions every 2 years (for now) in Boston. It should be noted that my car ran so badly on the machine(and it was running great in general), that it fucked up their machine.
They couldn't do any more testing that day. I overloaded their system I guess. They gave me a sticker to get me the hell out of there. I laughed all the way home.

 

Just thought i'd throw in that i passed no problem with power fc, intake, downpipe, hi flo cat, exhaust. not even close to failing.

 

Sounds like a vacuum line is routed wrong. I failed horribly before I got 2 hoses connected correctly. It had nothing to do with my cat, air pump, etc.

 

So if I have a 3" downpipe inplace of the pre-cat and I run my car for about 30 minutes before testing and the cat is hot I can still pass emissions? Cool.

 

What I have experieced back here in uk is after an engine rebuild, V-bad emissions, it sounds as if the housings are back to front, its not too hard to check, remove the plunum and the coil pack stamped on the top is either an F or an R ( F = Front Rotor)
Worth a look as it will stuff up the emisions without fail.
Happy hunting
Chris P

 

I had the same problem as rotary-tt. Got my vacuum lines right and I passed with 4 HC out of 220HC, and 0.00 CO at idle and at high idle. I was pretty impressed considering my mods.

 

no one answered my question, but if you can pass with all of that, and I see that you have a downpipe, then i should be able to too right? RIGHT!