tsmysak1

....and yes, I have read the mutiltude of flooding posts for the last 26 minutes...

When the engine gets flooded, have you all experienced a lack of compression too due to the excess gasoline disrupting the apex seals? Hence, the reason for the ATF?

I think my car is seriously flooded, and when it cranks, it seems to turn over rather smoothly, indicating it is not getting good compression. I think the injectors are leaking (or something because it is always very rich at start up - lots of gas smell for a minute) and I started it just for moment to pull it into the garage. The next morning flood-o-rama.

Comments?

Brent 94

iTrader: (1)

When you pulled it into the garage...did you let it warm up to normal operating temps?

tiger18

iTrader: (1)

Is the flooding happening all the time,,, whats milage on engine,,,

tsmysak1

Nope, I knew the risk was that it might flood when I turned the key off, and it got me....

tsmysak1

65k - Happened once before- Exact same circumstance... Started cold, pulled into the garage, shut it off.... Fool me once, shame on me, fool me twice...duh...it will only fool me a few more times before I get it....

Anyway, does this indicate an injector issue?

NewbernD

iTrader: (1)

Nope. The ECU injects a huge amount of fuel when the engine's cold. Just need to let it warm up before you kill it.

DrunkenBowler

On quick little trips such as trips from the garage to the driveway or vise versa, you should get the rpm's up to 2500 - 3000, then kill it. Just a rumor though.

tsmysak1

What kind of car pays you back for not letting it warm up!!?!?!?

LOL

I give it a nice place to park, and always keep it clean and .......

Oh well, I stopped by and cranked it over lunch...its flooded for sure...Really flooded

BUT, it is a hobby and I shouldn't be upset, right?

So, my first question was this: does flooding greatly reduce the effective compression? If not, I got a bigger problem, because it is not cranking like normal. It is spinning as if the starter motor was almost free to turn by itself...It doesn't sound normal either, but when I pulled the plugs (the first time) it did do the strong woosh woosh woosh ...It could be a low battery too I guess. The battery seemed to go down very quickly this time.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Flooding should not change compression.

Flooding causes hard starting because engines run on vaporized fuel, not so much fuel as to wet the interior of the combustion chamber. So once the spark plugs get wet, they can't effectively ignite the mixture and the fuel just piles up.

If it's not cranking like it should, the battery is probably in rough shape. What's the voltage on it?

Dave

Stix37867

iTrader: (1)

Actually sometimes it floods bad enough to where the seals can't seal anymore. It happened a lot to my brothers' fb's.

sevensix

iTrader: (1)

your battery is drained. charge it up before your next set of cranking

bajaman

Yeah, a seriously (or even moderately) flooded engine just does this strange little 'whirrrrr....whirrrrrrrrr....whirrrrrrrrr' and doesn't even sound right at all.

Mazda REALLY should have put some warning on the visor of these cars such as
"WARNING! Do NOT start a cold engine and shut off less than 5 minutes after starting. Serious flooding and subsequent hard/no starting WILL result!"

My FC was an absolute BITCH about flooding, and my FD has stood on my ***** a couple of times as well....lol!
No wonder the rotary has such a poor reputation. It really DOES deserve it. We are just the fools that put up with the **** because all in all it is SO cool!

tsmysak1

Hey all,

I really appreciate the posts... I am pretty savvy about fixing this car, but sometimes it just decides to do something new and throws me for a loop. Getting your experience really helps ALOT!!

Thanks !!!!

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Guys flooding is a direct result of poor compression and weak spark. If your engine are flooding, you have sticking/stuck seals and **** loads of carbon build-up. Period!

Check out the experiment I did in this thread. Keep in mind my engine has over 100k on it. I couldn't flood my engine no matter how hard I tried too. And it sat up for 2 months.

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/flooding-what-flooding-521685/

tsmysak1

Not buying it...sorry...

I know I have 100 psi on the rear rotor and a little bit down on the front. Somehow from your experience, you deduced that you have no carbon build up. How do you do that? Steam cleaning? Also, repeated startings in a row is not likely to create the same effect that is described in this thread....and like your singular responder stated, the temperature made a difference. Had you read my post carefully, you would have noticed that both flooding events were preceeded by simply pulling the car in the garage and shutting it off. Did you pull the plugs between starts to determine the degree of non-atomized fueling that could possibly be present? I did and the plugs were dripping wet. If I only had enough compression and no stuck seals..... oh ya...and better spark....and if the planets hadn't aligned I would have been driving the FD rather than posting about it. LOL

I don't think you can make these generalizations or get anyone else to agree with such harsh and absolute statements.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If that's true, (it seems many people believe it), I don't understand why it would affect compression. The apex seals are still pressed tight to the housing, and the side seals and corner seals are spring loaded too. I'm not suggesting it isn't true, but I just can't come up with how this happens.

Dave

t-von

iTrader: (8)

What kind of experience with these engines do you have that you would disprove someone else's knowledge and factual experience I know for a fact that I don't have a carbon infested engine. Obviously you didn't read my link to my post. The explanation to the things that's Ive done to my car (maintenance's wise) is in there. 100 psi doesn't mean diddley. If the engine is carbon infested, all it takes is for a couple seals to get stuck to quickly loose compression. Side and corner seals will stick very easily from carbon. You ever notice how hard it is sometimes to pullout stuck corner and side seals while doing a rebuild on an engine that's carbon infested? If you do then you know that your 100psi reading could quickly change to 60 psi in a heat beat.



Not likely? You need to stop quessing. Where did I say anything about temperature in my post here? Just to blow that out of the water recently I cranked up the car and drove it to my work shop. Engine was on maybe one minuet. I shut it down, and restarted it again. NO FLOODING! The car sat in my garage for a week while I did PPF reinforcement and tail light repair. It cranked right up again. Backed it out of the garage then shut it down again so I could lock the garage. The car started up again no problem. My car isn't a freek of nature. I know what it takes to keep them from flooding. Period! I'm just trying to help you guys understand the steps you can take to prevent flooding. Obviously YOU choose not to listen or read the links I post. I've owned 4 different Rx7's over the past 16 yrs. So I have a **** load of ownership experience. By the way my Fc did flood once in the past in a similar matter compared to the way yours did. It was started up and moved a couple feet then shut down. Both of my 1st gens have flooded at on point or another. That's was the first time my Fc ever did that. Both my Fc and Fd were well maintained, the only difference was the Fd received routine carbon cleanings and engine flushes. The FC never got such treatment and it was also granny driven.


Lastly if you and anyone else wants to continue to be paranoid about flooding these engines, by all means be my guess. Those of us who understand the TRUE causes dont worry about it.