Anyone know how long an engine would last if one of the rotor wasn't getting oil from the OMP?

what would happen, what would blow when it does?

 

if youre having issues with your omp. . . dump some 2stroke premix in the gas tank. . . that way you dont have to KNOW what blows. . .

if this is some sort of test (its a strange one first of all. . . cause i dont know WHY anyone would want to TEST this. . . oil is G-O-O-D!!!), then just go on out and try it. . . and let us all know what happens.

 

I don't know the exact length of time, but it won't last to long...I found one of my OMP lines broken when I did a vacuum line replacement on my car(I posted pics on here)...I fixed it by blocking off OMP and running premix...I don't know how long I was running with a broken line but I'm glad I found it when I did...I'm guessing the apex seals would build up a lot of heat and would seaze up and break--good bye housing and other parts.

 

Alex tell to JF to put some good Motul oil when he fill up the gas tank!!! I put about 120 ml per tank. It's a cheap and good solution!

Kevin

 

we just found out one of the lines wasn't getting oil, we also had a very strange hissing sound coming from the engine. We replace the OMP and it also cured the sound. So if it stopped working just when the sound started, it didn't miss oil for a while.

But since that time, the engine runs like **** and we can't find the problem.

 

If that's the case I'd do a compression test (the ghetto $25 piston tester method works for this) and make sure all the rotor faces have good compression then I'd run premix for a couple of tanks until you're sure that the rotors are getting enough oil.

FDs have the four injector system like the FCs do, right? Where it has one pair on the intake and one on the housing?

In my FC I just pulled the OMP, blocked it off and plugged the OMP lines. I've been premixing for over a year and it definatly works well and it runs smoother. If you get a decent TCW-3 oil (I actually get teh Walmart branded stuff and it works great) it doesn't even smoke any more then it would with the OMP and mine doesn't smell like a chainsaw unless I've been beating the crap out of it for awhile.

 

we are now positive the OMP works (we changed it). Plus, we found out when we removed the defect one that it was cracked and broke in our hand. Anyone ever had a similar problem?

 

I thought that was half the fun...

 

I had the position sensor on my old OMP go bad because my front cover leak had been dripping very hot motor oil on it for quite some time. It finally got fed up with that and began giving error codes. The pump was actually functioning correctly, but the ECU was getting no report from the sensor so it got pissed off.

 

My 12A lasted about 12k without the OMP functioning properly. The mechanical linkage wasn't connected therefore the OMP was only providing enough oil for idle. Plus I had a small oil leak in the upper dowel pin section on the engine. I believe this is where the OMP get it's oil supply from by looking at the oil route diagram. That leak would lower the oil pressure to the OMP. So I'm not really sure how much oil the engine was actually getting. Anyways I lost the engine due to carbon lock at 134k. Both housings had major flaking but the apex seals turned out fine. The chrome housing surface was glazed over on some parts.