jmadams74

This is the post we all dread -- I blew the engine this weekend. I may do a separate post on that when I stop kicking myself long enough. In the meantime, planning for replacement.
My goal is simple: RELIABLE, high 300's RWHP. My current mods are detailed in my profile garage, but basically all the bolt-ons, PFC, 550/1300, cosmo pump, etc. What I'm thinking is mild streetport, 3mm Mazda seals, heavy duty water seal, BNR stage 3 sequential turbos. Some of the things I'm unsure about: extra oil and water porting, new vs. reconditioned rotor housings, balancing, other items? Again, not looking for a supercar, but a fast reliable, fun, 99% street driven car making close to 400 RWHP. I've read most everything out here and feel I'm on the right track, but several of you have been down this road and can offer advise to both do it right and at the best price. Rebuild shop advise is welcome as well: Rotary Performance (just learned Chris isn't taking on any new work); Gotham; Pineapple; Pettit? Sorry for the long post and I appreciate your help and advise.

impactwrench

Please buy my currently functional Pettit street ported single turbo Microtech controlled motor so I can put a V-8 in mine.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

In my opinion:

2mm stock mazda seals are perfectly suitable for your application.

Get a decent streetport, a mild streetport is a waste of time.

New rotor housings all the way.

Balancing/oil and water porting is up to you really.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

what are the advantages of the oil and water porting?

rynberg

We had similar mods and goals for the car:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=rebuild

jmadams74

Rich and Tyler, thanks so much for your replys (I read every word of your rebuild thread, Tyler, and it was very informative). You guys are really nice to take the time to help out without being overly judgemental, etc.
Rich: as best I can tell in a nutshell, the 3mm seals over the 2MM seals is not necessary for the power/use I am seeking, but are still a considerable realiability factor if you ever get to the "edge."
Rich & Tyler: Porting recommendations if I am concerned with passing GA smog (pretty strict). New rotor housings -- Thank you for affirming this. Tyler, have you been happy with your flywheel (good time to address that while apart). What RWHP are you making now Tyler?
I don't think there is a rebuild shop in Atlanta? Charlie at Mazcare does fantastic work, but doesn't build engines. . .any suggestions?
Sounds like I'm in for a long period w/o the car. . .glad I got wife an RX-8 last Xmas, lol!

Improved FD

you sound like exactly where I was a year ago, I had my motor rebuilt with 3 mm seals (as Rich said, you don't NEED them, but I believe they are a great insurance policy against minor detonation, saved my *** already during a 16 psi run), street port, ceramic coated UIM and LIM, BNR stage 2s, PFC, 850/1200s, Cosmo pump, Aeromotive regulator and fuel filter, all braided lines, RB light weight flywheel, etc, etc....I run 14 psi on pump gas with a BDC tune

take it to RX-7 World in Rock Hill, SC....Ernst is a great guy and builds rock solid engines (he used to work on aircraft engines)

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

The thing I don't like about 3mm seals---they have to be milled perfectly. having said that, there is one place I know of that you can send your rotors to have them correctly milled.

I think the light flywheel is a great idea, I highly recommend it.

As far as smog, isnt there any way around it? get the car inspected in another county etc.

I have seen a few receipts from mazcare, and their prices were astronomical. I wouldn't recommend you go there unless you enjoy spending huge amounts of cash.

If you don't mind travelling, you can always bring the car up to NJ and Ihor and I can build you a motor. That's my suggestion, but I may be a bit biased

Improved FD

yep....RX-7 World has special tooling set-up for this and did a great job on my car

rynberg

I would get a streetport. I am happy with my 11-lb flywheel. I would not like a lighter one, nor would I recommend it to someone with a stock daily driven car. I have not been back to a dyno since I cleared up my ignition breakup. I made 344 rwhp at 13-13.5 psi with ignition breakup on a conservative tune on 91 octane (10.8 AFRs). With the breakup cleared up and running 15 psi, I should be in the 355-365 rwhp range, which I'm happy with on 91 pump gas.

Improved FD

15 psi on 91 sounds risky to me, good luck though....I'd throw a few gallons of 100 in there

DCrosby

I "Tried" making 400 rwhp with a GT35/40 setup vmount... etc... etc... I must have spent $14k+ on the whole thing over 2 years, trying to make it as fun as a good set of running twins... well on some cars the rotary gos are with you and on some they're not... I happen to have experienced both sides of that coin.... Doing things "Right" the first time and not getting to impatient is KEY.... needless to say it didn't work out...

On things that went right, dealing with Gotham Racing has never resulted in any dissapointments other than things taking longer, but turning out better....

jmadams74

So what should all this cost? 3,500 - 4,000 for the engine, 2,400 turbos, 400 flywheel, 500 misc. parts, 1000 r&r engine = around 8,000?

Improved FD

that was about my bill