Earls Tube to AN compression fitting install question
#1
Earls Tube to AN compression fitting install question
Hey guys,
alright so i'm about to finish setting up the fuel system, now heres my question to you guys...I found on the Triple-R site that these Earls fittings are the correct ones to go from the body fuel hard lines to AN fittings.
I didnt want to just clamp an SS hose over the hardline.
now my question is, how do I install these damn things??
This is what I was thinking of doing. Please let me know if its the right way to do it
-Cut bulged edge off the hard line
-Slide on the bottom of the fitting onto the pipe (red part of the fitting)
-Use a flaring tool to flare the pipe end
-place the brass compression thing and screw on the blue AN part
please let me know if this is correct!!
thanks for your help guys
alright so i'm about to finish setting up the fuel system, now heres my question to you guys...I found on the Triple-R site that these Earls fittings are the correct ones to go from the body fuel hard lines to AN fittings.
I didnt want to just clamp an SS hose over the hardline.
now my question is, how do I install these damn things??
This is what I was thinking of doing. Please let me know if its the right way to do it
-Cut bulged edge off the hard line
-Slide on the bottom of the fitting onto the pipe (red part of the fitting)
-Use a flaring tool to flare the pipe end
-place the brass compression thing and screw on the blue AN part
please let me know if this is correct!!
thanks for your help guys
#3
I don't know if you've seen, but there are also quick disconnect OEM hard line adapters that are AN fittings on the other end. If you're not interested in hacking your hard line that could be the way to go. Russell and JEGS, off the top of my head, both make such products.
#4
I don't know if you've seen, but there are also quick disconnect OEM hard line adapters that are AN fittings on the other end. If you're not interested in hacking your hard line that could be the way to go. Russell and JEGS, off the top of my head, both make such products.
link?
#5
Here's one for starters...you'd want the female ends...
Russell Performance - Specialty Fuel EFI Adapter Fittings
Russell Performance - Specialty Fuel EFI Adapter Fittings
#7
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#10
Rotary Freak
Better to use a dash 5 tube nut and sleeve, flare the hardline to 37° and use your adaptor of choice - rather than risk an olive imho. I believe the pressure rating isn't much beyond base pressure either.
#11
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
It isn't proper to try to use a swaged "compression" fitting of a softer material than the hard line is made of and additionally you need to size the fitting to the size of the tube (Metric not Standard).
The proper way to do this is to use a properly sized, quality, precision compression fitting that is harder material than the tube you are putting it onto.
I was familiar with the quality of Swagelok brand from my work on industrial machinery so this is what I used.
"-8M0-7-6" is a stainless 8mm tube compression fitting to 3/8" NPT Female thread and then you use a common aluminum 3/8" NPT Male to -6AN fitting from Jegs or Summit.
Always use the stronger material for the female end to attain the highest pressure rating. This combination would be 4,500psi I think.
If you have to keep the assembly slender but you have some length you can use a "-8M0-6-6" stainless 8mm compression fitting to 3/8" compression fitting to a "-6-TA-1-6AN" stainless 3/8" tube to -6AN fitting.
I haven't found a metric one piece adapter for 8mm compression fitting to -6AN.
Example-
https://www.swagelok.com/search/find...-8M0-7-6&item=
The proper way to do this is to use a properly sized, quality, precision compression fitting that is harder material than the tube you are putting it onto.
I was familiar with the quality of Swagelok brand from my work on industrial machinery so this is what I used.
"-8M0-7-6" is a stainless 8mm tube compression fitting to 3/8" NPT Female thread and then you use a common aluminum 3/8" NPT Male to -6AN fitting from Jegs or Summit.
Always use the stronger material for the female end to attain the highest pressure rating. This combination would be 4,500psi I think.
If you have to keep the assembly slender but you have some length you can use a "-8M0-6-6" stainless 8mm compression fitting to 3/8" compression fitting to a "-6-TA-1-6AN" stainless 3/8" tube to -6AN fitting.
I haven't found a metric one piece adapter for 8mm compression fitting to -6AN.
Example-
https://www.swagelok.com/search/find...-8M0-7-6&item=
#15
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
I doubt it, unless you cut off the lines along the bottom of the car instead of near the ends like I did, where they are well up the firewall in the front and up the rear subframe area in the back. The tool is too big to get up in there. Removing the lines isn't that bad though. The worst part I think was pulling the smaller hardlines that were above the rear subframe and go between these lines and the fuel tank. But even that wouldn't be bad if you have the rear subframe out.
I was planning on pulling the charcoal canister line and fuel feed line and running a -8 sized hardline all the way to the front. I talked to a shop in Denver and they said they'd build me a line and even said it was finished, but I heard from an inside source that it was never built. That worked out though because I had already thought about just using the charcoal canister as another line and then tee the lines together in the engine bay.
One thing I want to point out though...it looked to me like the feed and return fuel lines were seamless stainless steel and the charcoal line looked like it had a seam and was copper or something. That's what they looked like after flaring anyway. So I'm gonna use the charcoal line as the return line since it won't have quite as much pressure as the feed lines.
I was planning on pulling the charcoal canister line and fuel feed line and running a -8 sized hardline all the way to the front. I talked to a shop in Denver and they said they'd build me a line and even said it was finished, but I heard from an inside source that it was never built. That worked out though because I had already thought about just using the charcoal canister as another line and then tee the lines together in the engine bay.
One thing I want to point out though...it looked to me like the feed and return fuel lines were seamless stainless steel and the charcoal line looked like it had a seam and was copper or something. That's what they looked like after flaring anyway. So I'm gonna use the charcoal line as the return line since it won't have quite as much pressure as the feed lines.
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