Earls Tube to AN compression fitting install question
 

Hey guys,

alright so i'm about to finish setting up the fuel system, now heres my question to you guys...I found on the Triple-R site that these Earls fittings are the correct ones to go from the body fuel hard lines to AN fittings.

I didnt want to just clamp an SS hose over the hardline.

now my question is, how do I install these damn things??

This is what I was thinking of doing. Please let me know if its the right way to do it

-Cut bulged edge off the hard line

-Slide on the bottom of the fitting onto the pipe (red part of the fitting)

-Use a flaring tool to flare the pipe end

-place the brass compression thing and screw on the blue AN part


please let me know if this is correct!!


thanks for your help guys :icon_tup:







Attachment 692659

Attachment 692660

actually a buddy of mine on facebook just gave me this link of how to do it

i guess this thread can be used as a reference for anyone who wants to do this mod

heres the video:

I don't know if you've seen, but there are also quick disconnect OEM hard line adapters that are AN fittings on the other end. If you're not interested in hacking your hard line that could be the way to go. Russell and JEGS, off the top of my head, both make such products.

definitely interested

link?

Here's one for starters...you'd want the female ends...

Russell Performance - Specialty Fuel EFI Adapter Fittings

is it this...just to make sure:


Russell Fuel Rail Fitting Adapters 640860 - SummitRacing.com

That's a 5/16 to 6 AN, just be sure you don't need the 3/8 to 6 AN. I don't currently own a FD, so can't be 100% sure which you need.

thanks for the heads up!

sending those compression fittings back to Summit tomorrow, ordered the quick release ones LOL

yep i know bringing back from the dead but were the compression fittings ever installed?

Better to use a dash 5 tube nut and sleeve, flare the hardline to 37° and use your adaptor of choice - rather than risk an olive imho. I believe the pressure rating isn't much beyond base pressure either.

It isn't proper to try to use a swaged "compression" fitting of a softer material than the hard line is made of and additionally you need to size the fitting to the size of the tube (Metric not Standard).

The proper way to do this is to use a properly sized, quality, precision compression fitting that is harder material than the tube you are putting it onto.

I was familiar with the quality of Swagelok brand from my work on industrial machinery so this is what I used.

"-8M0-7-6" is a stainless 8mm tube compression fitting to 3/8" NPT Female thread and then you use a common aluminum 3/8" NPT Male to -6AN fitting from Jegs or Summit.
Always use the stronger material for the female end to attain the highest pressure rating. This combination would be 4,500psi I think.

If you have to keep the assembly slender but you have some length you can use a "-8M0-6-6" stainless 8mm compression fitting to 3/8" compression fitting to a "-6-TA-1-6AN" stainless 3/8" tube to -6AN fitting.

I haven't found a metric one piece adapter for 8mm compression fitting to -6AN.

Example-

https://www.swagelok.com/search/find...-8M0-7-6&item=

That's what I did... flare for -5AN tube nut and sleeve and use a male to male -5 to -6 adapter all in stainless.

Attachment 653904

Attachment 653905

I did the exact same thing. I got an AN flaring tool for stainless steel lines, and got the same type and size fittings you did. I'm hoping it doesn't leak lol.

Attachment 640316
Attachment 640317
Attachment 640318
Attachment 640319
Attachment 640320

Is there enough flex in the stock lines to do this in the car? I'd hate to have to remove the lines just to flare the ends

I doubt it, unless you cut off the lines along the bottom of the car instead of near the ends like I did, where they are well up the firewall in the front and up the rear subframe area in the back. The tool is too big to get up in there. Removing the lines isn't that bad though. The worst part I think was pulling the smaller hardlines that were above the rear subframe and go between these lines and the fuel tank. But even that wouldn't be bad if you have the rear subframe out.

I was planning on pulling the charcoal canister line and fuel feed line and running a -8 sized hardline all the way to the front. I talked to a shop in Denver and they said they'd build me a line and even said it was finished, but I heard from an inside source that it was never built. That worked out though because I had already thought about just using the charcoal canister as another line and then tee the lines together in the engine bay.

One thing I want to point out though...it looked to me like the feed and return fuel lines were seamless stainless steel and the charcoal line looked like it had a seam and was copper or something. That's what they looked like after flaring anyway. So I'm gonna use the charcoal line as the return line since it won't have quite as much pressure as the feed lines.