Dual In Tank Fuel Pumps: Post how you are setup
02-24-05, 09:45 PM
#51
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by iluvmy3rdgen
The fuel pulsation dampner always leaks after time and is in need of attention. As for the fuel pressure, you can search that as I am unsure and it has been talked about before.
Originally Posted by RotorMotor
if youve got a digicam lying around, id really love to see some pics of where exactly it is, and how its done. did they end up using an aftermarket fuel filter or the stock one?? thanks, heath
02-24-05, 09:47 PM
#52
I live in a Museum
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: NY, 10992
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by apneablue
you know, I always thought it was called "dampener" but it's actually "damper" I didn't believe till I saw it writting on the box when I bought one.
Here you go...I don't even need to jack the car up to change it.
Here you go...I don't even need to jack the car up to change it.
02-24-05, 10:46 PM
#53
Injected with a Poison
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i thought of running 2 se[erate wires but my tunner brought up a good point. if you have two seperate wires and one fails then you may not notice intime before your car runs lean... then pop goes the weasal. with both off of one if one fails then car wont start and you will know something is wrong. you dont want these cars running if they are not up to tee. as for shrink wrap. its all good. if you can get the fuel proof one, then awsome. i dont have it and you dont need it a all. this set up runs in my car with a relay straight from the battery in the rear and a signal wire from the haltech.
hope this helps!
hope this helps!
02-25-05, 12:07 AM
#55
DRIVE THE ROTARY SPORTS
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CA (Bay Area)
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by apneablue
you know, I always thought it was called "dampener" but it's actually "damper" I didn't believe till I saw it writting on the box when I bought one.
Here you go...I don't even need to jack the car up to change it.
Here you go...I don't even need to jack the car up to change it.
so whats the verdict on the stock fuel filters?? im building a 20b right now and the highest id ever end up HP wise would be around 600... but for now ill most likely be around 450. am i ok in assuming that this filter will be ok for ~ 450HP to the wheels??
02-25-05, 12:31 AM
#56
DRIVE THE ROTARY SPORTS
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CA (Bay Area)
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by iluvmy3rdgen
The fuel pulsation dampner always leaks after time and is in need of attention. As for the fuel pressure, you can search that as I am unsure and it has been talked about before.
02-25-05, 08:48 AM
#57
Glug Glug Glug Burp
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Scott AFB, IL
Posts: 3,819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RotorMotor
is the stock fuel pulsation damper (when new) fine for any power level/or any amount of fuel flow?? i.e. can it be used w/ the 2 pumps @ say 600HP??
02-25-05, 09:01 AM
#58
Photo Diety
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rob, you brought up a very good point... I thought about it for a while and realized the weak link isn't the dual wires themselves, but the fuses! One fuse could blow and I'd never, ever know it until it's too late...time for a redesign! I think these pumps draw somewhere around 12 to 14 amps but I'm not positive. One 25A fuse "may" work. Did Carlos tune your car? My CLR engine should be done next week.
Rotormotor, if you're going with a 20B, by all means upgrade the fuel filter to something a bit larger. Barry Grant makes a very nice EFI pump with an integrated filter. Aeromotive makes several in-line fuel filters. One can purchase 25ft. of aluminum fuel line for EFI from Summitracing.com along with a pipe bender for under $50. You'll be able to run larger line to the front and with flare fittings, attach the inline filter at some point. I definitely wouldn't stick to the stock fuel filter.
Rotormotor, if you're going with a 20B, by all means upgrade the fuel filter to something a bit larger. Barry Grant makes a very nice EFI pump with an integrated filter. Aeromotive makes several in-line fuel filters. One can purchase 25ft. of aluminum fuel line for EFI from Summitracing.com along with a pipe bender for under $50. You'll be able to run larger line to the front and with flare fittings, attach the inline filter at some point. I definitely wouldn't stick to the stock fuel filter.
02-25-05, 09:02 AM
#59
Photo Diety
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On another note, I know many people making over 400rwhp with the stock regulator and damper. Myself included! Naturally I'm making changes now but my hp goals are heading north.
02-25-05, 12:20 PM
#60
DRIVE THE ROTARY SPORTS
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: CA (Bay Area)
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rx7tt95
Rob, you brought up a very good point... I thought about it for a while and realized the weak link isn't the dual wires themselves, but the fuses! One fuse could blow and I'd never, ever know it until it's too late...time for a redesign! I think these pumps draw somewhere around 12 to 14 amps but I'm not positive. One 25A fuse "may" work. Did Carlos tune your car? My CLR engine should be done next week.
Rotormotor, if you're going with a 20B, by all means upgrade the fuel filter to something a bit larger. Barry Grant makes a very nice EFI pump with an integrated filter. Aeromotive makes several in-line fuel filters. One can purchase 25ft. of aluminum fuel line for EFI from Summitracing.com along with a pipe bender for under $50. You'll be able to run larger line to the front and with flare fittings, attach the inline filter at some point. I definitely wouldn't stick to the stock fuel filter.
Rotormotor, if you're going with a 20B, by all means upgrade the fuel filter to something a bit larger. Barry Grant makes a very nice EFI pump with an integrated filter. Aeromotive makes several in-line fuel filters. One can purchase 25ft. of aluminum fuel line for EFI from Summitracing.com along with a pipe bender for under $50. You'll be able to run larger line to the front and with flare fittings, attach the inline filter at some point. I definitely wouldn't stick to the stock fuel filter.
. im still prepping to drop the motor in so it will be a few months before im even dealing with upgrading the fuel system.
02-25-05, 12:25 PM
#61
I live in a Museum
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: NY, 10992
Posts: 930
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RotorMotor
is the stock fuel pulsation damper (when new) fine for any power level/or any amount of fuel flow?? i.e. can it be used w/ the 2 pumps @ say 600HP??
03-01-05, 03:39 PM
#62
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jdhuegel1
Most aftermarket fuel systems eliminate it. I don't think you'll be able to get over ~350 - 400 with the stock crap - so it's pretty much gone after that regardless.
With this setup (according to RPs fuel calculator) it should be good for 650rwhp at 88% IDC....
01-19-06, 08:04 AM
#63
NRX7HVN
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 597
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've searched until my eyes hurt...anyone have a link to a write up on wiring two walbros together? Any help would be appreciated but I can't search anymore for now, my eyes are killing me!
03-11-06, 08:09 PM
#65
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: tampa
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
use the stock power fp power wire to switch on a relay that is wired directly from the battery to the fp
you can do this for each pump or get a single 50 amp relay to run both.
so on the coil(switching side) one wires gets permenently grounded
the other goes to the stock fp power wire
on the load side one terminal goes to the battery
one terminal to the pump or pumps
you will need some ~10 gague wire
i would make/buy a bulkhead fitting to run the wires into the tank
make sure to use fule tank hose as regular fp hose is not realy ment to be submergered in fuel just carry it
for god sakes be careful how you rig it all up as any "problems" can become deadly
you can do this for each pump or get a single 50 amp relay to run both.
so on the coil(switching side) one wires gets permenently grounded
the other goes to the stock fp power wire
on the load side one terminal goes to the battery
one terminal to the pump or pumps
you will need some ~10 gague wire
i would make/buy a bulkhead fitting to run the wires into the tank
make sure to use fule tank hose as regular fp hose is not realy ment to be submergered in fuel just carry it
for god sakes be careful how you rig it all up as any "problems" can become deadly
03-12-06, 05:40 AM
#66
sold--no longer in debt
Dual walbros, rewired. (constant 12v)
When I ran them on stock wiring, the car had a really bad stumble when it would switch the pumps from 9v to 12v.
03-12-06, 08:08 AM
#67
Originally Posted by mad_7tist
use the stock power fp power wire to switch on a relay that is wired directly from the battery to the fp
you can do this for each pump or get a single 50 amp relay to run both.
so on the coil(switching side) one wires gets permenently grounded
the other goes to the stock fp power wire
on the load side one terminal goes to the battery
one terminal to the pump or pumps
you will need some ~10 gague wire
i would make/buy a bulkhead fitting to run the wires into the tank
make sure to use fule tank hose as regular fp hose is not realy ment to be submergered in fuel just carry it
for god sakes be careful how you rig it all up as any "problems" can become deadly
you can do this for each pump or get a single 50 amp relay to run both.
so on the coil(switching side) one wires gets permenently grounded
the other goes to the stock fp power wire
on the load side one terminal goes to the battery
one terminal to the pump or pumps
you will need some ~10 gague wire
i would make/buy a bulkhead fitting to run the wires into the tank
make sure to use fule tank hose as regular fp hose is not realy ment to be submergered in fuel just carry it
for god sakes be careful how you rig it all up as any "problems" can become deadly
03-12-06, 10:18 PM
#72
sold--no longer in debt
Originally Posted by RxSeven1
is it 100% neccassary to have a relay? what if you used a switch to turn on and off the fuel pumps? it couls also be like a anti theft device...
03-13-06, 04:32 AM
#73
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gallatin, TN
Posts: 1,457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cloead
And it could also be an engine detonation device. Just use relays, its not hard at all. Just as much work as using a switch.
At any rate, I do agree that running a relay is the best choice, however, running a switch will also work just fine.
-Alex
03-13-06, 05:02 AM
#74
Originally Posted by TT_Rex_7
Hmmm, I must be missing something, because I don't see how the hell using a switch would be considered a "detonation device." You do know that race cars have a switch for their fuel pumps, correct? If the switch is off, and you try and start the car, it'll either start and run till the gas in the fuel line runs out, or it won't start at all. If you some how flick the switch off while driving, it'll stall. So where in the hell does detonation come into play?!
At any rate, I do agree that running a relay is the best choice, however, running a switch will also work just fine.
-Alex
At any rate, I do agree that running a relay is the best choice, however, running a switch will also work just fine.
-Alex
Last edited by HDP; 03-13-06 at 05:05 AM.
