Dual In Tank Fuel Pumps: Post how you are setup
#1
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Dual In Tank Fuel Pumps: Post how you are setup
Hey Guys,
So I am wanting to install a second intank pump and "Y" them together inside the tank but not sure about how to get the 12v source to them safely..
Can you post how yours is setup and if you have pics please post also..
Thanks,
David
So I am wanting to install a second intank pump and "Y" them together inside the tank but not sure about how to get the 12v source to them safely..
Can you post how yours is setup and if you have pics please post also..
Thanks,
David
#3
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go in the single turbo area or do a long search. Im running twin walbro's but ran them out of the tank each to a seperate rail, then to the fpr and used the stock feed and return lines as return lines
#4
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Crap.. I'm not sure if I took pictures or not, but I simply jumped one pump to the other for power/grnd (which has been argued unsafe, but I've had no issues) and used a 3/8" plastic Y I found at a motorcycle shop (made for fuel) to tie them together in the tank. I ran it right out the stock line.
It's better (for higher HP) to run them parallel (or like teamafx). Use the stock feed and return lines as feed lines. Go straight to the primary and secondary rails from there. After the rails, tie them into the left and right sides of the FPR, and run the return line through what used to be the charcoal canister line. I've never done this, and am not quite sure what happens to the canister though..
rfreeman on nopistons has a huge writeup on his install.. which is VERY nice. It's in the 3rd gen section somewhere I think..
Justin
It's better (for higher HP) to run them parallel (or like teamafx). Use the stock feed and return lines as feed lines. Go straight to the primary and secondary rails from there. After the rails, tie them into the left and right sides of the FPR, and run the return line through what used to be the charcoal canister line. I've never done this, and am not quite sure what happens to the canister though..
rfreeman on nopistons has a huge writeup on his install.. which is VERY nice. It's in the 3rd gen section somewhere I think..
Justin
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Originally Posted by jdhuegel1
It's better (for higher HP) to run them parallel (or like teamafx). Use the stock feed and return lines as feed lines. Go straight to the primary and secondary rails from there. After the rails, tie them into the left and right sides of the FPR, and run the return line through what used to be the charcoal canister line. I've never done this, and am not quite sure what happens to the canister though..
#6
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Originally Posted by jspecracer7
That's how I've had my fuel run for over 2 years now. No issues. I even jumpered one pump from the other. I think eventually I'll run them parallel but I've had no fuel issues so why bother.
#7
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Originally Posted by jdhuegel1
Thanks for the input. Matter of fact.. you helped convince me that it was safe to begin with!
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#8
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Originally Posted by RotorMotor
?? as in you wired the second pump in parallel with the first one? did you need to beef up the wiring going to the first pump then?? ive heard its already a little thin.
#9
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I have two. Ran two seperate sets of thicker wiring to the relay. The pumps are T'd together into the stock fuel line for now, but will more than likely run two seperate lines in the future if I stay set up this way. I'll try to dig up pictures of how I attached the pumps to one another.
-Nic
-Nic
#11
Just discussed this a few days ago...here are a few images and a link with the discussion; Scroll to the bottom:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=395465&page=2
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=395465&page=2
#12
Rob, your pumps look nicely mounted..might have to change mine a bit, but I'd consider running power lines to each pump individually with their own relays/fuses. Otherwise you may power starve the pumps.
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After the noisy POS SX fuel pump took a **** on me at a major intersection in the summer time and I had to push the car out of the road, I was forced to switch pumps.
My mechanic made a slick looking "Y" design with 2 Nippodenso pumps. Now, my pumps are silent and I should have enough fuel to support more horsepower than my car will ever have with a 13B (I guess I'll just have to go 20B).
Sorry no pictures. My mechanic has pictures, so I'll see if I can get them from him. I'm not sure how they're wired, but I did have upgraded wiring pre-installed for the SX, so it has definitley been upgraded.
My mechanic made a slick looking "Y" design with 2 Nippodenso pumps. Now, my pumps are silent and I should have enough fuel to support more horsepower than my car will ever have with a 13B (I guess I'll just have to go 20B).
Sorry no pictures. My mechanic has pictures, so I'll see if I can get them from him. I'm not sure how they're wired, but I did have upgraded wiring pre-installed for the SX, so it has definitley been upgraded.
#15
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Originally Posted by rob20rx7
Nice! Looks just like mine (minus the fance fittings!)
#16
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Ok, Great...this is exactly the kinda responses I was looking for...
In this photo I see some huge power wires going to the pumps...Where are the coming from? and are they "Y"ed together outside the tank and running one power wire to the source? can you explain this wiring? (explain it as if you were telling it to a 5 year old)
i have to say that this is the setup I saw some time ago that I wanted to duplicate...Now on this setup it seems the power and ground wires were also upgraded but just thickened up inside the tank...Or is it just that I can't see the rest of the wiring?
I guess I pretty much have the plumbing down..It's just the wiring I am not too keen on...
It seems if you beef up the wiring inside the tank (as in the second photo) you aren't getting the full benefit of thicker wires as if you ran thicker wires straight from the battery...Can you explain the wiring how the wiring is setip on photo 2?
Also, what is that putty looking stuff used to seal the tank in photo 1? Would have to be air tight to keep the pressure in the tank right?
The photo below I am just putting as a comparison...This is my stock pump coming out before I replaced it with the supra pump...As you can see the stock wiring compared to above is quite a bit smaller.
In this photo I see some huge power wires going to the pumps...Where are the coming from? and are they "Y"ed together outside the tank and running one power wire to the source? can you explain this wiring? (explain it as if you were telling it to a 5 year old)
i have to say that this is the setup I saw some time ago that I wanted to duplicate...Now on this setup it seems the power and ground wires were also upgraded but just thickened up inside the tank...Or is it just that I can't see the rest of the wiring?
I guess I pretty much have the plumbing down..It's just the wiring I am not too keen on...
It seems if you beef up the wiring inside the tank (as in the second photo) you aren't getting the full benefit of thicker wires as if you ran thicker wires straight from the battery...Can you explain the wiring how the wiring is setip on photo 2?
Also, what is that putty looking stuff used to seal the tank in photo 1? Would have to be air tight to keep the pressure in the tank right?
The photo below I am just putting as a comparison...This is my stock pump coming out before I replaced it with the supra pump...As you can see the stock wiring compared to above is quite a bit smaller.
#17
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You would have to wear shoes, and upgrade the wires as follows for optimal performance:
Take two wires 12guage or thicker and run them straight from the battery with fuses inline. From there put each wire into a relay (near the tank would be easiest, or next to the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment) and wire them so when the stock fuel pump relay is triggered these will supply the two pumps with current. then run it through the car and drill a hole in top of the fuel pump housing. Install a rubber grommet, run the wires through along with the same size wire for ground. So now you will have two 12gauge wires (positive) and two 12gauge wires (ground) running through the grommet. Seal the top and bottom of the grommet with a silicone or some other gas-proof sealant. Then wire them to the pump. When grounding the wires make sure to sand any paint away and test the grounds with a test light before driving the car.
Take two wires 12guage or thicker and run them straight from the battery with fuses inline. From there put each wire into a relay (near the tank would be easiest, or next to the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment) and wire them so when the stock fuel pump relay is triggered these will supply the two pumps with current. then run it through the car and drill a hole in top of the fuel pump housing. Install a rubber grommet, run the wires through along with the same size wire for ground. So now you will have two 12gauge wires (positive) and two 12gauge wires (ground) running through the grommet. Seal the top and bottom of the grommet with a silicone or some other gas-proof sealant. Then wire them to the pump. When grounding the wires make sure to sand any paint away and test the grounds with a test light before driving the car.
#19
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Search it, it has been discussed many times before.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/y-twin-fuel-pumps-1-feed-line-372570/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/y-twin-fuel-pumps-1-feed-line-372570/
#20
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Drill a hole in the fuel pump assembly cover and install a 90 degree bulkhead fuel fitting. Earls makes them, or you can use something less expensive from a hydorlcs store. Secure the 2nd pump along side the first with some hose clamps. You're going to have to play around with the positioning of the pumps to get them to fit right, especially the way the sock filters point. At this point you can chose to run a new fuel line for the 2nd pump, use the existing vent line as a 2nd feed, or t the two fuel pump outlets together and use just the stock feed line. The stock feed is pretty small, and I like to keep the vent to prevent fuel vapor smell, so I like to run a new line. The problem with this however, is that it is more work to add another hard line, and running a soft line the length of the car can be dangerous. In your case I would probably just T the two pumps together. Makes it alot simpler. Some people run a pump for each fuel rail, but that becomes a real pain and I don't see much benefit in it. The stock wiring is barely adequate for a single pump, so you need to upgrade it. The stock setup also runs the pump at 9 volts (if I recall correctly) and then steps it up to 12v via relay under load. The best way tp get power in my opinion is if you already have the battery relocated in the bins or trunk. Run a power wire to the pumps. I forgot what guage I used, but it was at least twice as thick as stock. You also need to incorporate a relay into this. Don't use the starter relays alot of people use. They click loudly as they cycle and are not designed for extended use. Gotham usually has the proper ones in stock. Other than that, make sure any hose you use is marked as fuel injection hose and for high pressure. The other cheep stuff will burst over time. Also, solder and heat shrink. everything. I don't trust the crimp connectors for critical applications like fuel.
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i have 2 nipondenso pumps that i was planning on using for my project car... but i was thinking it would be nice to mount the two pumps on opposite corners of the tank, so when the fuel starts sloshing around you would (hopefully) prevent starving the motor. anyone done this?
PS for the electrical connections is there special gasoline resistant wire that you need? it seems that there would be but i havent tackled this project yet.
PS for the electrical connections is there special gasoline resistant wire that you need? it seems that there would be but i havent tackled this project yet.
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The stock fuel tank is already setup so that you don't have to worry about fuel starvation during hard cornering. That's why there's that metal thingy (for lack of a better word :LOL inside the tank.
#23
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Thanks for the pics rob20rx7... looks like you T the ground wires close to the second pump, is there a reason why? also, no one use fuel/oil resistant shrink wraps??
Do you think the stock wires will handle the load and not over heat?? Thats one of my concern with your set up. Also, has anyone consider capacitor in between the battery and the pumps?? to reduce initial current drop when pumps turn on due to the high load.
I guess all those years I thought running your car close to empty was dangerous was all a myth.
Do you think the stock wires will handle the load and not over heat?? Thats one of my concern with your set up. Also, has anyone consider capacitor in between the battery and the pumps?? to reduce initial current drop when pumps turn on due to the high load.
Originally Posted by jspecracer7
The stock fuel tank is already setup so that you don't have to worry about fuel starvation during hard cornering. That's why there's that metal thingy (for lack of a better word :LOL inside the tank.
Last edited by Herblenny; 02-22-05 at 07:12 AM.
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Originally Posted by herblenny
Thanks for the pics rob20rx7... looks like you T the ground wires close to the second pump, is there a reason why? also, no one use fuel/oil resistant shrink wraps??
Do you think the stock wire is going to handle the load and not over heat?? Thats one of my concern with your set up.
I guess all those years I thought running your car close to empty was dangerous was all a myth.
Do you think the stock wire is going to handle the load and not over heat?? Thats one of my concern with your set up.
I guess all those years I thought running your car close to empty was dangerous was all a myth.
Well I wouldn't call it a myth. But inside the tank are metal "walls" that trap a certain amount of fuel inside of them so that you don't go lean under hard cornering. Problem is that if you have little fuel in my tank, then that little bit of fuel left inside the walls probably won't do anything.
#25
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Originally Posted by herblenny
I guess all those years I thought running your car close to empty was dangerous was all a myth.
I wouldn't go that far... Low fuel + hard cornering could possibly cause problems, but under normal fuel levels you should be more than safe.