you know, I always thought it was called "dampener" but it's actually "damper" I didn't believe till I saw it writting on the box when I bought one.

Here you go...I don't even need to jack the car up to change it.

 

Nice relocation.

 

i thought of running 2 se[erate wires but my tunner brought up a good point. if you have two seperate wires and one fails then you may not notice intime before your car runs lean... then pop goes the weasal. with both off of one if one fails then car wont start and you will know something is wrong. you dont want these cars running if they are not up to tee. as for shrink wrap. its all good. if you can get the fuel proof one, then awsome. i dont have it and you dont need it a all. this set up runs in my car with a relay straight from the battery in the rear and a signal wire from the haltech.

hope this helps!

 

With the twin pumps is the fuel pressure doubled or just the volume?

 

wow i like that alot... im trying to think of any possible situations where it would be a problem/hazzard... but nothing comes to mind. i like!

so whats the verdict on the stock fuel filters?? im building a 20b right now and the highest id ever end up HP wise would be around 600... but for now ill most likely be around 450. am i ok in assuming that this filter will be ok for ~ 450HP to the wheels??

 

is the stock fuel pulsation damper (when new) fine for any power level/or any amount of fuel flow?? i.e. can it be used w/ the 2 pumps @ say 600HP??

 

Most aftermarket fuel systems eliminate it. I don't think you'll be able to get over ~350 - 400 with the stock crap - so it's pretty much gone after that regardless.

 

Rob, you brought up a very good point... I thought about it for a while and realized the weak link isn't the dual wires themselves, but the fuses! One fuse could blow and I'd never, ever know it until it's too late...time for a redesign! I think these pumps draw somewhere around 12 to 14 amps but I'm not positive. One 25A fuse "may" work. Did Carlos tune your car? My CLR engine should be done next week.

Rotormotor, if you're going with a 20B, by all means upgrade the fuel filter to something a bit larger. Barry Grant makes a very nice EFI pump with an integrated filter. Aeromotive makes several in-line fuel filters. One can purchase 25ft. of aluminum fuel line for EFI from Summitracing.com along with a pipe bender for under $50. You'll be able to run larger line to the front and with flare fittings, attach the inline filter at some point. I definitely wouldn't stick to the stock fuel filter.

 

On another note, I know many people making over 400rwhp with the stock regulator and damper. Myself included! Naturally I'm making changes now but my hp goals are heading north.

 

thanks for the recomendations... sorry im so clueless... all im good at is buying parts really . im still prepping to drop the motor in so it will be a few months before im even dealing with upgrading the fuel system.

 

If you are using the stock rails which they are compatible with then I don't see why it wouldn't. But it has been said that the high end aftermarket FPR's come with dampers built it. Some just eliminate it with no ill effects.

 

I am not too keen on how this setup works but I have a milled stock primary rails running 850 primaries and 1600 secondaries in an aftermarket rail...When I was using an aftermarket top feed rail for the primaries I didn't use the damper but when I went back to the stock milled primary rail I had to put in the damper (well, Gotham did)...

With this setup (according to RPs fuel calculator) it should be good for 650rwhp at 88% IDC....

 

I've searched until my eyes hurt...anyone have a link to a write up on wiring two walbros together? Any help would be appreciated but I can't search anymore for now, my eyes are killing me!

 

im looking for a write up too.. but if i do end up doing it without a writeup, then i will for sure try and write one...

 

use the stock power fp power wire to switch on a relay that is wired directly from the battery to the fp

you can do this for each pump or get a single 50 amp relay to run both.

so on the coil(switching side) one wires gets permenently grounded
the other goes to the stock fp power wire
on the load side one terminal goes to the battery
one terminal to the pump or pumps

you will need some ~10 gague wire
i would make/buy a bulkhead fitting to run the wires into the tank

make sure to use fule tank hose as regular fp hose is not realy ment to be submergered in fuel just carry it

for god sakes be careful how you rig it all up as any "problems" can become deadly

 

Dual walbros, rewired. (constant 12v)

When I ran them on stock wiring, the car had a really bad stumble when it would switch the pumps from 9v to 12v.

 

What size relay for a single pump, 25 amp?

 

Need a good wirteup from the gentleman that used the Nos tee and other fittings. Give us a parts list and numbers for them

tom

 

Anyone?

 

30 amp relay is plenty and is what I use

tom

 

is it 100% neccassary to have a relay? what if you used a switch to turn on and off the fuel pumps? it couls also be like a anti theft device...

 

And it could also be an engine detonation device. Just use relays, its not hard at all. Just as much work as using a switch.

 

Hmmm, I must be missing something, because I don't see how the hell using a switch would be considered a "detonation device." You do know that race cars have a switch for their fuel pumps, correct? If the switch is off, and you try and start the car, it'll either start and run till the gas in the fuel line runs out, or it won't start at all. If you some how flick the switch off while driving, it'll stall. So where in the hell does detonation come into play?!

At any rate, I do agree that running a relay is the best choice, however, running a switch will also work just fine.

-Alex

 

If the switch is accidentally switched off while making a WOT run... BOOM!!!! The fuel would not just stop flowing, it would tapper off(lean out). I would leave nothing to chance, anything can happen.

 

If you use a switch, I would suggest you still use a relay and have your switch ground the trigger side of the relay to turn the pump on.