Hey guys I just had a shop put in my dp. In the process, they broke a stud. They told me that they have to put the pipe on with only three studs unless i want to pay 400 bucks to pull the turbo and rethread the hole. They are going to use the stock gasket with gasket goo. I'm planning on running it like that untill i have the money to fix it. My buddy from MA told me that he ran it with three studs unknowingly. He had a little leak but said it was still runable. I just want to hear your stories.

My question is:
Is anyone here running their pipe with three studs?
If it doesn't leak as of right now, how long do you think it would last me?
Would it start to leak if i put it under 10 lbs of boost?

I did a search but didn't come up with any results of other people that is running the pipe with 3 studs.

Thanks Guys

 

They should be able to drill it out with a smaller diamter drill bit, so it doesn't ruin the threads. Well, i'm assuming that they can get to the stud without pulling the turbos.

Why didn't you buy M2 or RotaryExtreme's DP?

I have a broken stud on my Efini y-pipe and the boost leak is extremely noticable and makes a whistle sound.

Oh my DP is a HKS but it didn't fit flush and I had an exhaust leak. I purchased some manifold repair goop which hardens with heat and it fixed it, not perfectly but enough.

 

thanks for the reply.
I used this pipe because it was my brothers. I payed him 150 for it. I know the m2 pipe doesn't require removal of studs but i'm on a tight budget.

 

why do you have to pay if they broke it?

 

Thats a very good question.

 

get it fixed. if you are gonna do it do it right....try to do it yourself and save yourself some bucks if possible. or get a local rx-7 owner to help...

 

I just got it back today. Its not leaking. I put it under boost and still boosting 10-8-10. No exhaust leaks either.
I'm going to run this until i have money to get an ecu, and then pull the turbos, rethread the hole. While i'm at it, i'm going to take the plate off and go full non-sequential.
I love the turbo whine. Drove by my cuz under full throttle and he said it sounded like a rocket zimming through.
Played with a mustang cobra on the way home. I can tell he had a full through exhaust. The engine rumbled but still pulled him.

alwan16: "....try to do it yourself and save yourself some bucks if possible...."

I would rather work on my car myself if I had the time. Working full time and side projects.

 

For what it's worth..

When I bought my 93 about 2 years ago, they previous owner had installed a pettit downpipe but hadn't installed the allen bolts in the right order, so the lower rear bolt (that's underneath the bend) had it's bolt just kind of lying there. (he was too lazy to fix it when he was down there..) I just pulled the bolt off because it was basically dangling there. I've been running for 2 years on 3 bolts. No leaks.

 

FYI a leak at the downpipe is not going to effect boost at all as it's after the turbos. It could however create an exhaust leak that can be hazardous or cause emissions problems.

 

I am about top purchase a downpipe what is all of this stud stuff? no but seriously I need help choosing do not want to spend more than 250 for I am investing 2400 already in this current project need a three inch! sorry to interupt thread!

thanks joe

 

This stud stuff is the screws that hold the downpipe onto the turbo. Since this is a 10 year old car, the nuts and bolts are somewhat rusted and are known to break under the pressure of the wrench. If you break the nuts at the top of the dp, you will have to take the turbos off inorder to rethread the hole.
The shops usually charge around 400 for that job.
I recommend you buying the m2 dp...it doesn't required bolt removal and its also full stainless steel.....
That dp is 3" and cost around 275.
Hope that helps you out.
Tony

 

There is no way that should cost 400.00 There are tools You can buy for cheap to get the stud out. Ask for an easy out at Your tool suply shop. Drill into the stud, let it cool and insert the easy out into the hole. If You can try to heat up the area around the stud to make the metal expand and turn out the broken stud. When You get them out use a good anti seize thread compound on the studs.

 

They aren't charging 400 bucks to rethread the hole. They can't get to the stud because they can't reach it. Then the would have to take the turbo off in order to get at it. They are charging the money for pulling the turbo and installing it back. By the way...the stud is the top inner one.

 

PB blaster soaked for a couple of days, angle drill, Easy Out. Maybe a little heat from a pencil tip butane torch on the manifold around the stud. Work it.

Patience, perserverance, perspiration. End of story.

$400? Yeah, right.......

Replace only with OEM - that flange is on there for a purpose..............

Oh, you only want to use HIGH TEMP anti sieze for the re-install of the stud. It IS different, and if I remember correctly, more expenisve - of course! A high quality calibrated torque wrench will save you another broken bolt. Bite the bullet and purchase the $40 metal exhaust gasket unless you want to do it again, and again, and again. And if your "mechanic" is not hip to this find another one.

Or you can just drive around with three......and be an Exhaust Leak.

 

Got it.

 

hey dose any know what the angle of the bends in a down pipe would be for a 1986 mazda rx7?

 

1) Unfortunately they aren't off base. Broken studs can be very difficult to remove, and since they face the frame there is really no access to do it in place. Unfortunately pulling the turbos puts you at risk for the turbo studs to do the same thing, and hurrying is the biggest reason for broken studs.

2) Gasket goo will only serve to create leaks when that joint heats up to 1000°F. And it will. Clean, flat metal surfaces are the only real answer.

If I didn't have $400, I would let it go with 3 studs. But it will leak some and sound ricey. I would take it home and try to fix it myself.

Dave