Downpipe installation
#1
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Downpipe installation
Ok, I need some help. My Bonez SS dp is coming in on tuesday, and me and a friend are going to install it because Rick's Rotary won't. I need to know what size bolts I need to replace the factory studs to attach the downpipe to the turbo. Also, any final advice on doing this installation myself? Important things to watch for?
#2
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I don't remember what the sizing of the bolts are but just take it to a local napa, autozone or ace and they can find a replacement. Other then that remove the whole intake system, and you'll see the top 2 bolts and 1 bottom one. You'll be able to get 2 from the top and 2 from under the car. Spray the **** out of it with wd-40 or some sort of rust remover and let it soak over night. Then just take your time and try not to break a stud, but if you do dont panic it shouldn't be a big deal to remove, just time consuming. Also try searching next time, this has been posted many many times.
-Alex
-Alex
#3
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The bolts are M10x1.5mm pitch, about 40 or 50mm is good. Get alloy steel, Grade 10.9 if possible. Make sure the bolt head has enough room from the weld to turn well, steel wool the gasket and manifold flange before reassembly. I've experimented with a bunch of types - the socket head cap screws (allen drive) work best, but the allen sockets don't fit well. Standard hex head cap screws are easy to work with, but the heads are a little too large. Mazda studs and nuts fit well and are high strength, but expensive. I definitely recommend removing the y-pipe if it's your first time - the extra space will help a lot and give you more room in case there is any trouble. Use copper anti-seize on all threads for the next time things come apart.
Get the car lifted and heat shields removed a day early so you can hit the studs with PB Blaster.
Dave
Get the car lifted and heat shields removed a day early so you can hit the studs with PB Blaster.
Dave
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While it wasn't necessary, I opted to remove the y-pipe and to get a better look and more room to work with. I honestly think it made the whole process a lot easier. Consider using some anti-sieze paste so that the next time you have to remove these exhaust bolts in won't be too much of a problem.
And be careful when removing the precat. Trust me when I say a 40 lb cat to the face hurts.
And be careful when removing the precat. Trust me when I say a 40 lb cat to the face hurts.
#5
ooohhh just in time... I'm putting mine in too soon. I was gonna say to remember to put anti-seize on the bolts when you put them in but I guess Dave beat me to it =/.
Jeremy
Jeremy
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i put mine on without removing the y-pipe...it was a little hard...just a little hard to see one of the bolts....but i sprayed the **** out of it with pb blaster too....the bottom side of the DP wasnt lining up good with the rest of the exhaust system, so i too loose the rest of that also. i took the muffler out of the little rubber holder also. that helped me out a **** load so that i could move the rest of the exhaust to line up with the DP
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#8
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Originally Posted by witepsycho
the bottom side of the DP wasnt lining up good with the rest of the exhaust system, so i too loose the rest of that also. i took the muffler out of the little rubber holder also. that helped me out a **** load so that i could move the rest of the exhaust to line up with the DP
Dave
#11
#13
I think the real reason in removing excess parts being useless to other FD members is the SIZE lol. Just an opinion!
Jeremy
O YEAH!!!! I'm with makoracing... why wont Rick do it?
Edit: NO IDEA why i'm posted twice....
Jeremy
O YEAH!!!! I'm with makoracing... why wont Rick do it?
Edit: NO IDEA why i'm posted twice....
#14
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Originally Posted by jeremyb
I think the real reason in removing excess parts being useless to other FD members is the SIZE lol. Just an opinion!
Jeremy
O YEAH!!!! I'm with makoracing... why wont Rick do it?
Edit: NO IDEA why i'm posted twice....
Jeremy
O YEAH!!!! I'm with makoracing... why wont Rick do it?
Edit: NO IDEA why i'm posted twice....
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