7heBeas7

I've searched the forum and know its difficult to get to the top 2 bolts. I heard you can take off the ABS heat shield, which I removed the 2 bolts on top and CANNOT get the damn thing out. Any advice?

Do I have remove the y-pipe?

I'm just getting friggen frustrated as hell here!

Also how the hell do you get the alternator out. I have the FC thermoswitch. I looked at the FSM and I hate they're removal instructions. They should have it step by step showing each part.

PLEASE HELP!!

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

i took of my y pipe when i installed mine but i dont have abs either so it was pretty easy for me

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you get ALL the bolts out of the downpipe, or just the top two?

As far as the FSM, it's not intended to be a Haynes type step by step guide. Its was intended to supplement Mazda's training program for their mechanics. Anyway, do you still have the airpump? If so, you'll need to loosen the airpump so you can take the belt off. If you don't have the airpump, then you only need to lower the alternator down far enough to remove the belt.

Then, there is one long bolt in the front left for the alternator to remove. After that, undo the height adjustment then you should be able to angle and wiggle it out. You might need to remove the pressure chamber to get a little extra wiggling room.

puma

iTrader: (2)

make sure you remove the heat shield over the downpipe... small 10mm bolt.

7heBeas7

thanks the abs heat shield is a pain to remove i removed the 2 bolts for it and can't wiggle it out. As far as the dp goes I haven't touched it yet cuz I heard I should remove the top 2 bolts first.

7heBeas7

finally got the effin abs shield off!!!!!!

7heBeas7

You guys think I should remove the y-pipe?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Remove whatever you need to get the job done. If you can do the job without removing the y-pipe, then don't remove it. If its in your way, remove it.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You should at least remove the rear tube that goes into the y-pipe. It comes off easily.

DaveW

I got my pre-cat off pretty easily without removing any Y-pipe parts, or the turbo intakes.

Of course, I do have quite an assortment of tools.

Dave

7heBeas7

adam c do you have a pic of what that tube looks like?

prescription 7

iTrader: (5)

Yes you have to remove the y pipe. I'd even remove the metal rear intake hose that connects to the inlet of the rear turbo just to make things easier. Those DP bolts can be a HUGE pain in the *** so have some PB blaster and pray you dont strip or brake a bolt.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

No pic. It's a "U" shaped metal tube more than an inch in diameter. It connects to the rear of the y-pipe. As I recall, there are a few 10mm nuts holding it in place.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

"Feeling" your way thru this work usually ends up in disaster if you are not experienced. Could cost a lot of money to repair. Don't you have anyone close by who can help you who is ?

later

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

I took off very little the first time I put a downpipe on an FD. However, when I finally broke the top bolt loose(the one that is a bitch to get to) from underneath the car, my hand slammed into the abs heatshield and sliced it to the bone. I had blood going everywhere. Still have a nice scar on my finger from it and that has been prob. six years ago. Moral of the story... take the heat shield off... haha.

HKNY

iTrader: (2)

remove EVERYTHING in the area your working in,it becomes very easy then.

Specter328

iTrader: (2)

I was very lucky, my downpipe came of in 20 minutes without removing the ABS shield or y-pipe. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and penetrating oil to break the bolts and it came right off. Having 2 people makes it easier, one over the engine and one under, at least for me

djseven

iTrader: (56)

I always remove the ypipe and secondary intake hardpipe. Those things take about an extra 5 mins at most to take off but save a hell of a lot of time. For the secondary intake hardpipe it will help to have an extension and swivel adapter to help you get to the two nuts. Before taking them off spray the studs with PB blaster.

Another tip, when putting hte dpipe back on, put the nut on the lower rear stud first. If you tighten the others down first you will never get it on. Dont lose your cool and just take your time.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

+1

it's definitely MUCH easier if you have plenty of room to work with.

i've found that it's best if you removed both sections of the y pipe (front and back) - it's much easier to remove & re-install this way, just remember where the hoses go!

7heBeas7

Thanks for all the help guys. It's hard to see where the bolts are for the y-pipe. I have pettit intakes and I can easily remove the top intake rubber pipe.

Where do I go from there? Just having trouble seeing everything in our cramped engine bays.

Also, I flushed my coolant and was refilling. I filled up the coolant tank to the left of the engine bay and all of a sudden it started overflowing, but not from the top. Anyone else have this problem before? For some reason my coolant doesn't go all the way down when I fill up through the filler cap. It fills rapidly to the top and then takes a while to go somewhat down.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Are you filling the coolant with the engine on or off?

DaveW

The overflow coolant tank is full about 12" from the top. You probably just overfilled it.

7heBeas7

The engine off.
I was thinking of getting this: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=342309
Do you think it would help?

Ok thanks Dave. It's just that it wasn't overflowing from the top part where the cover is. I couldn't see where it was coming from and it was just pouring from somewhere.

DaveW

There is a vent about 4-6" down on the O-F tank around the bottom of the filler neck.

Dave