Sonny

http://www.rotormafia.com/dtc/

Feedback is welcome.

Sonny

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Nice, we can never have too many write ups with pictures. The best way to remove the plates is a dremel with a small cut off wheel. The ends of the screws are squished (mushroomed) and you cut that off. With that removed, the screws will back out and you won't strip them beforehand.

JONSKI

Nice work!

broken93

Nice. I had to cut mine off too. I ended up pressing in an aluminum slug instead of tapping the hole. Haven't got a chance to run it yet; I guess I'll find out.

XSTransAm

i had to drill mine out too, what a pita

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Great writeup. Have you had any weird idle issues? I've read that other people on these boards seemed to have idle issues after the AWS removal, which is the main reason I haven't attempted it yet.

-s-

FCdemon

You can use a torch to heat the double throttle butterflies and then unscrew them by hand. Also, I blocked off the DT instead of tapping it..

JONSKI

You might want to add that if you still have the stock ECU that you need to either plug in the AWS solenoid connector or put in a 330 or 360 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor. Otherwise the Idle Speed Controller will go wide open.

ORX705

nice. Thanks

good idea tapping the hole for the double throttle shaft!

so as long as you plug the electrical connectors back into the solinoids you won't have any problems with error codes?

Sonny

Right...if you leave the solenoids in place and hooked up, you won't have any problems with codes. For the AWS solenoid, I left it plugged in, but made a block-off plate for the pipe that normally runs to the intake elbow.

Sonny