pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

I changed the plugs yesterday. They only lasted like 3 or 4000 miles. Lots of carbon on them even though I do the water steam cleaning every other week.

So I poured 8 oz. of seafoam into the oil last night. This morning went to work, car fully warmed up, hit my usual straight 3 lanes and went WFO (0.8 bar on the PFC) and heard a slight pop like when you pop a balloon. Immediately lifted. Slowed down to a light and the engine vacuum is now 16 in. Hg with lumpy idle. Normally I get 19 in.Hg (468-470 mmHG). This is my 3rd motor, a Malloy Reman. Tuned by Steve Khan last May. It has been running great for the last 16 months. All new tires and a new clutch last month.

My guess is that the seafoam (smelled like kerosene and some other solvents) got sprayed into the combustion chamber by the oil nozzle and caused the detonation.



So, is this a cracked apex seal or a corner seal?

I called Ray at Malloy. He's got a bunch of brand new motors from Japan for $4300 (including shipping).

At this point, I'm debating whether (a) put an all new motor in; (b) sell the whole thing as a roller; (c) trade it in the cash for clunkers program; (d) go LS1; (e) part it outl.

As to (a) I don't feel like blowing $6K on a car that gets 11 mpg and no one else rides in it nor have I had a chance to do track days in the last 6 years;
As to (b) it's starting to look like a good way to generate cash, and as you know, cash is king in a deflationary environment;
As to (c) I'm joking about the Cash for Clunkers ...
As to (d) all the LS1, unless they're hard core track ******, don't seem to keep the LS1
As to (e) too much work to disassemble the car, might as well donate and take a tax credit.

Here is the latest picture of a car that I have owned for the last 14 years through a same color repaint by Mr. Spoiler, a 2nd tranny, 2nd diff, a career change, 3 jobs, 3 kids and 2 minivans (the last being an Odyssey).






Believe it or not but this van is fun to drive now that I have lowered it in combination with the 2005 RL low profile tires and wheels. That V6 engine is creamy smooth and torquy with the 5 speeds AT.

FDWarrior

iTrader: (6)

I know your probably not serious about cash for clunkers, but they do crush the car. I would hate to see a nice FD get crushed by our government while putting you in some dumb bubble car.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

I'd probably punch you in the mouth it you did cash for clunkers, you know It'd get crushed right?

Check your compression before you go jumping to conclusions.

That car is too beautiful to get scrapped.

Edit: he beat me too it lol.

Drifter288

iTrader: (3)

It's worth more than 4500, must be kidding me if your going to C4C it.

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

I say sell most of the mods, return it to mostly stock and sell it as a blown roller if you're really set on getting rid of it.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

1. Do a compression test.
2. Check your vacuum lines and gaskets for leaks. You may have blown out the TB gasket if it is still the old paper version.
3. Change your oil, get that crap out of the oil system. It is one thing to use it to de-carbon the rotors, but don't put it in the oil.

bajaman

lol....WHY on earth do you think you have to "do the water steam cleaning every other week"?
I suspect THIS practice, more than anything else has led to all your problems.


I mean, I know of, oh heck....DOZENS of OEMs that recommend this. The billions of dollars they spend on R&D clearly show the need.....

All derision aside, you bring up some serious questions that I hope you find your answers to. We all know the FD is not practical and has a host of issues, and CAN be money pits. On the other hand, there are some owners who are still on the original motor, and many owners on their first rebuild who have had years of trouble-free motoring. I am assuming some of the things like changes to your job and family keep you from taking the car to the track? Was tracking the car one of the main reasons you kept it?
You have started a good list, I would suggest adding to it with more 'pros' and 'cons' and using that information to help you make your final decisions.

Good luck!

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Doing an LS1 will be WAY more than 6k.

If you're gonna spend the money like that on the FD, might as well take you time and build it back up again. Find out exactly what caused the blown motor and make it better.

OR

Just hold onto the car til you gather up more money (if you're having a hard time with money), take it apart slowly and build it back up.

OR worse comes to worse.

I would part it out, then sell the roller.

Then maybe in the future buy another FD? These cars are super duper cheap. Even already swapped LS1 FD's are cheap as hell now.

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

^+over9000

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Negative, there is nothing wrong with steam cleaning. Do it every day if you want to.

Not sure why you'd add anything to your oil though

Get the motor compression tested. Anything else is just a waste of time.

Is the vacuum steady or does it jump around a bit?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

If you're not using it much and bummed about the poor mileage then I'd suggest you sell it now to Fritz which is option F) that you left out lol , or part it and sell it as a roller. Then buy a new M3 which in my mind is a great all around car but the mileage will be close to the FD w/ the pomanferrari foot you have attached to your right leg

Elombard

Not sure you can blame this on Sea Foam...I think those kinds of additives are for people who do not maintain there cars that well...which you obviously do.

Whats up with the crack on the OEMs not recommending the steam cleaning...is that even relevant when we are talking rotary's??

No advice on your dilemma...been there with Porsches a few times. I would park it for a week and let your head clear - no rash decisions.

If you were not so far away I would be interested in the car as a roller un-parted out (and would pay accordingly) unless Fritz beats me :-)

blacksi

Do an LS1, you fall in love with the car all over again. The prices of LS1's are dropping due to all the new motors out LS2's 7s. I did mine for 7500 back when prices were higher.

That's not including the money back from selling parts.

bajaman

As a matter of conjecture....why do make this assertion? Just curious. I mean, when no OEM or specialty engine house or leading edge companies endorse doing this.

You've rebuilt a lot of engines and I respect your opinion. Have you seen first hand proof of any benefit of regular 'steam cleaning'?

I remember back in the day when it was common for V8 engines to get a piece of carbon lodged in a valve seat, we used to dump a quart of ATF thru the carb and THAT worked wonders....plus fogged mosquitoes for 37 square blocks!

bajaman

Not a crack, just a question. I am not saying it isn't effective, as objective evidence has shown it to be so, I just question the validity/effectivity of doing it regularly. Have you EVER seen an owner's manual instruct you to do this, for example? I haven't in all the years I have been driving (some 35 years now).

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Running water through the engine has zero negative effects that I've seen. I've torn down a few motors that have seen steam cleaning and the carbon buildup was much less than I see on stock high mileage motors. Not 100% conclusive so take it for what it's worth. I've also used it to unstick side seals on engines on numerous occasions over the years.

Why did you state the steam cleaning was possibly causing his problems?

Btw, I still laugh everytime I see your 'black friday/crown royal' statement quoted in people's sigs

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Have you ever seen the owner's manual tell you to:

remove the precat
remove the AST
premix
insert a thermal pellet in the e-shaft
change the shape of the intake/exhaust ports
run without an oil pan gasket
etc etc

We're a bit past using the owner's manual as gospel at this point. It's a great tool, but you have to know it's limitations

I *have* seen FD engines driven for many years bone stock just as the owner's manual intended....... and upon teardown they had an unbelievable amount of carbon which had eventually led to apex seal failure.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

It is steady but low. However, my fuel pressure gauge is sensitive to show that it's fluttering.

JamesVaughn3rd

iTrader: (3)

I'm not seafoam expert, but I did lots of research on it when I used it on my Acura. I'm not exactly sure you really used seafoam the right way. I've never really heard anything good about using it as an oil additive, but I've read that you shouldn't let it sit like that and shouldn't drive it far at all without changing the oil.

I think it's fine in the intake/gas mixture, but I would never use it in my oil.

Sucks, all depends on your current family situation and whatnot on if you should fix it.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

so your fuel px is fluttering but the vacuum is constant?

16 inches is ~-400 on the pfc commander, not what i'd consider a blown motor if it's a consistent -400. Hell, my new motor pulls quite a bit less than that with stellar compression, although it has a healthy port on it.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like you need an oil change and a compression test, and shouldn't put seafoam in the oil of this or whatever motor you have in the future.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Compression test it, also I have never heard of adding seafoam to the oil but that had nothing to do with detonation or shouldnt have if you are saying it was thru the oil injectors.

Either way, why dont you go with a motor with stronger seals, RA seals, ALS seals, or even 3mm mazda seals. Remans are what they are, same with the stock oem 2mm seals. They are great, but are not forgiving. Also what in the world is going on for you to get 11 mpg, you must be beating the car pretty hard to see that, those are road coarse fuel economy numbers.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

^^good point, I get 20-22 mph highway and 15mpg around town, this with 400+ rwhp.

cpnneeda

iTrader: (1)

I've seen Seafoam used a many a time on some of the cars that qualify for the C4C deal. It was always put into 1-2 gals of gas, and the car was let run until it ran out of gas. Oil, filter, plugs, and new gas where then added, and they always ran like a top. It amazed me that some of the cars my neighbor could fix. I say let run, I mean, sitting in the yard SMOKING. They would smoke while that seafoam was in them, but once it ran out, it was good.

I can't see why Steam would hurt either. If it did Water Injection would be a no no for us.


And out of curiosity I entered the FD into the C4C thing on the Nissan site, and according to them it doesn't qualify. Found out why though, there is a 15 year olds or under rule, I have a 93. But, as it was said above, there isn't anything out there worth trading it for.

bajaman

Well....I was thinking more along the lines of other cars with that post....lol! We all know the FD has definitely benefited from post-production/aftermarket development.

Thanks for your responses. As I have said before, I will defer to the experts and/or people with REAL experiences every time.