Does every FD3S need V-mount?
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
anyway I'm thinking about replacing the old Air intake box with the stock one and about to make some ducting for my IC. I think if I'm right, the coolant temperature is now fine and I have nothing to worry about them. Just a proper ducting to reduce my IAT.
Last edited by zeth; 04-30-18 at 08:29 AM.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Anyway I've managed to get the stock Air Intake Box + Stock IC + Ducting. I think I can use the stock Intake Box + stock IC ducting with a little modify on it.
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You're right, previous owner did make some aluminium thing to replace the old ducting. I'm thinking about modifying stock IC ducting or design a new ducting for my IC.
#30
All out Track Freak!
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Just a quick update guys
I've just installed the PowerFC Commander and found out that
My coolant temp is about 84C and IAT around 67C
with my current configuration. Is that ok or too hot?
anyway I've found out that my boost seems abnormal. I'll figure it out when I got time.
I've just installed the PowerFC Commander and found out that
My coolant temp is about 84C and IAT around 67C
with my current configuration. Is that ok or too hot?
anyway I've found out that my boost seems abnormal. I'll figure it out when I got time.
A stock car will see 60c and higher all the time but it's not ideal and could literally blow the engine. Especially at 60c and higher on a race track. If I'm at the track in a stockish or stock FD I start short shifting at 60c AIT and 110c water and these car will get there in a hurry even at only 80f ambient.
#31
Junior Member
Thread Starter
A stock car will see 60c and higher all the time but it's not ideal and could literally blow the engine. Especially at 60c and higher on a race track. If I'm at the track in a stockish or stock FD I start short shifting at 60c AIT and 110c water and these car will get there in a hurry even at only 80f ambient.
#32
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
The position of the sensor is one thing, but it's not huge. You can get the fast-acting sensor that'll react better.
But, bottom line is these cars should have come with a Miata battery in the trunk and a v-mount which even with the stock intake box and OEM quality heat exchangers would have been a VAST improvement. That, silicone vacuum hoses, and some kind of accurate temp gauge/fail safe system might've saved the reputation of the car.
But, bottom line is these cars should have come with a Miata battery in the trunk and a v-mount which even with the stock intake box and OEM quality heat exchangers would have been a VAST improvement. That, silicone vacuum hoses, and some kind of accurate temp gauge/fail safe system might've saved the reputation of the car.
#33
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Is it because the IAT sensor is in the stock position that gets me wrong IAT? (Not talking about the ducting that should be fixed, I'll get it done soon) I've researched on this and turns out that someone said it has been heatsoaked all the time, some of them said I'll probably get the wrong temp with PowerFC.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 04-30-18 at 06:34 PM.
#34
Rotary Freak
Been a fair while since I've been over in Thailand, so maybe out of date, but road conditions weren't the best as I recall, except for major roads? V-mounts tend to sit pretty low even when you re-plumb the radiator outlet, the fans would end up being pretty vulnerable if you would happen upon the big potholes I seem to remember.
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ran a test today with super hot weather in really bad traffic about 30 mins stuck. Then joyride to my office. What I really doubt now is "what is the Peak boost (+0.5 on the third line of the pic) unit?" is it mmHg as the Commander shows or kg/cm^2?
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#37
Double-A
iTrader: (5)
@Zeth,
This might help... read through my experience also and the build link also.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-help-1122859/
if you need measurements for the alum duct to the smic I can take a pic and attach. Let me know. My setup was also with a koyo n-rad.
Good luck. Not sure how your car survived without ducting to the smic.
This might help... read through my experience also and the build link also.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-help-1122859/
if you need measurements for the alum duct to the smic I can take a pic and attach. Let me know. My setup was also with a koyo n-rad.
Good luck. Not sure how your car survived without ducting to the smic.
#41
Lousy Crew Chief
iTrader: (10)
If you want a $700 V mount kit, then you’ll get what you pay for. No rubber isolators for the mounts, not 100% bolt in, especially with twins, not AC compatible for bolt in, no ducting, no options for no BOV, I can go on. You spend the money on a well made kit like the HKS, Greddy, Rotary Extreme (if you’re lucky enough to get him to make you one! The waitlist is crazy), etc then you’ll get a bolt in no modification well made and ducted kit.
Matt
Matt
#42
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
OP Do you ever plan to take this car to a track? Do you just want it to run reliably with less hassle or do you plan to crank up the boost?
Start modding and one thing leads to another... move the IAT sensor and now you would want to get retuned or at least have the default map checked. So now you think about turning up the boost, so you need injectors and exhaust, and on and on it goes.
just make sure you know what you want. If you just want to drive the car to work and back sometimes it's a different set of considerations than turning up the boost and going to A track.
Start modding and one thing leads to another... move the IAT sensor and now you would want to get retuned or at least have the default map checked. So now you think about turning up the boost, so you need injectors and exhaust, and on and on it goes.
just make sure you know what you want. If you just want to drive the car to work and back sometimes it's a different set of considerations than turning up the boost and going to A track.
#43
Junior Member
Thread Starter
OP Do you ever plan to take this car to a track? Do you just want it to run reliably with less hassle or do you plan to crank up the boost?
Start modding and one thing leads to another... move the IAT sensor and now you would want to get retuned or at least have the default map checked. So now you think about turning up the boost, so you need injectors and exhaust, and on and on it goes.
just make sure you know what you want. If you just want to drive the car to work and back sometimes it's a different set of considerations than turning up the boost and going to A track.
Start modding and one thing leads to another... move the IAT sensor and now you would want to get retuned or at least have the default map checked. So now you think about turning up the boost, so you need injectors and exhaust, and on and on it goes.
just make sure you know what you want. If you just want to drive the car to work and back sometimes it's a different set of considerations than turning up the boost and going to A track.
I got stock IC, stock ducting, stock air intake box
The coolant temp runs around 80-83 C while running (around 85-87 in traffic)
IAT around 50 while running (60+ in traffic)
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