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Coolant temp is fine. Stock t-stat is (IIRC) 85 C.
IAT is high. Were you still when you got that reading or moving? What was ambient?
she was still after running for 20 mins with 4-6k rpm all the way down to my office. ambient was like 30C
anyway I'm thinking about replacing the old Air intake box with the stock one and about to make some ducting for my IC. I think if I'm right, the coolant temperature is now fine and I have nothing to worry about them. Just a proper ducting to reduce my IAT.
Anyway I've managed to get the stock Air Intake Box + Stock IC + Ducting. I think I can use the stock Intake Box + stock IC ducting with a little modify on it.
Looking at your photos you have virtually no ducting right now. I think that aluminum piece is the modification to mate the stock duct to your IC.
You're right, previous owner did make some aluminium thing to replace the old ducting. I'm thinking about modifying stock IC ducting or design a new ducting for my IC.
I think a V-mount is the ideal setup, regardless of hood, climate, other mods. The original stock set up was an odd compromise after you see the v-mount design, and all SMIC upgrades were effectively improvements on a fundamentally flawed design.
Yep! Once you experience the benefits of a v mount you'll never go back to an smic. That said for a street car the PFS setup or m2 medium with cold air intake box are fine. IMO the stock setup is really only OK for daily driving or running about town while driving in non sport mode. When these cars 1st came out they were getting hurt left in right while being tested on track.
Originally Posted by zeth
Just a quick update guys
I've just installed the PowerFC Commander and found out that
My coolant temp is about 84C and IAT around 67C
with my current configuration. Is that ok or too hot?
anyway I've found out that my boost seems abnormal. I'll figure it out when I got time.
Ideally we'd all like to keep AIT at 50c or below. Lots of people use water injection to keep temps down but in a perfect world one should simply install a very nice vmic that's ducted properly and call it a day. No worries from that point on.
A stock car will see 60c and higher all the time but it's not ideal and could literally blow the engine. Especially at 60c and higher on a race track. If I'm at the track in a stockish or stock FD I start short shifting at 60c AIT and 110c water and these car will get there in a hurry even at only 80f ambient.
A stock car will see 60c and higher all the time but it's not ideal and could literally blow the engine. Especially at 60c and higher on a race track. If I'm at the track in a stockish or stock FD I start short shifting at 60c AIT and 110c water and these car will get there in a hurry even at only 80f ambient.
Is it because the IAT sensor is in the stock position that gets me wrong IAT? (Not talking about the ducting that should be fixed, I'll get it done soon) I've researched on this and turns out that someone said it has been heatsoaked all the time, some of them said I'll probably get the wrong temp with PowerFC.
The position of the sensor is one thing, but it's not huge. You can get the fast-acting sensor that'll react better.
But, bottom line is these cars should have come with a Miata battery in the trunk and a v-mount which even with the stock intake box and OEM quality heat exchangers would have been a VAST improvement. That, silicone vacuum hoses, and some kind of accurate temp gauge/fail safe system might've saved the reputation of the car.
Is it because the IAT sensor is in the stock position that gets me wrong IAT? (Not talking about the ducting that should be fixed, I'll get it done soon) I've researched on this and turns out that someone said it has been heatsoaked all the time, some of them said I'll probably get the wrong temp with PowerFC.
It will heat-soak the most sitting still or in stop-n-go driving. Once moving...getting GOOD airflow thru your IC WITH A DUCT...and indicated IAT temps should drop to a point. The stock sensor is just slow to reflect that change. So if it's heat-soaked and you immediately go out and do WOT runs it's not giving much in real-time readings to the ECU and it could be dangerous to the engine. I'm not a tuner, but advocate for relocating it to just downstream of the IC and using a fast reacting sensor for that reason. And it's really pretty easy to do.
Been a fair while since I've been over in Thailand, so maybe out of date, but road conditions weren't the best as I recall, except for major roads? V-mounts tend to sit pretty low even when you re-plumb the radiator outlet, the fans would end up being pretty vulnerable if you would happen upon the big potholes I seem to remember.
Ran a test today with super hot weather in really bad traffic about 30 mins stuck. Then joyride to my office. What I really doubt now is "what is the Peak boost (+0.5 on the third line of the pic) unit?" is it mmHg as the Commander shows or kg/cm^2?
If you want a $700 V mount kit, then you’ll get what you pay for. No rubber isolators for the mounts, not 100% bolt in, especially with twins, not AC compatible for bolt in, no ducting, no options for no BOV, I can go on. You spend the money on a well made kit like the HKS, Greddy, Rotary Extreme (if you’re lucky enough to get him to make you one! The waitlist is crazy), etc then you’ll get a bolt in no modification well made and ducted kit.
OP Do you ever plan to take this car to a track? Do you just want it to run reliably with less hassle or do you plan to crank up the boost?
Start modding and one thing leads to another... move the IAT sensor and now you would want to get retuned or at least have the default map checked. So now you think about turning up the boost, so you need injectors and exhaust, and on and on it goes.
just make sure you know what you want. If you just want to drive the car to work and back sometimes it's a different set of considerations than turning up the boost and going to A track.
OP Do you ever plan to take this car to a track? Do you just want it to run reliably with less hassle or do you plan to crank up the boost?
Start modding and one thing leads to another... move the IAT sensor and now you would want to get retuned or at least have the default map checked. So now you think about turning up the boost, so you need injectors and exhaust, and on and on it goes.
just make sure you know what you want. If you just want to drive the car to work and back sometimes it's a different set of considerations than turning up the boost and going to A track.
I'm not that fast driver so I just want to drive her to my office and back home safely. Just installed Koyorad N-flo, the result is pretty impress.
I got stock IC, stock ducting, stock air intake box
The coolant temp runs around 80-83 C while running (around 85-87 in traffic)
IAT around 50 while running (60+ in traffic)
Not to derail the thread but it seems v-mount is either 700 and not great quality or 2500+ and nothing in between. Any one know of a good one somewhere in the middle price range?
Not to derail the thread but it seems v-mount is either 700 and not great quality or 2500+ and nothing in between. Any one know of a good one somewhere in the middle price range?
a set of rotaryextreme twin turbo Vmount im about to sell.
ill price it smack in the middle with ac compatibility lol
