Greddy SMIC Install Help
01-27-18, 05:57 PM
#1
Greddy SMIC Install Help
Folks,
Picked up a used Greddy SMIC. Issue #1- Apparently the purchase did not include item #5 from their install manual. It’s called an “rubber air diflector”? Assuming this means deflector). Anywa, as I don’t have one I have no idea what it looks like, how it mounts, and it’s measurements. I can fabricate this if someone can help answer those 3. No pics on the web help either. Please help. Issue #2 - i have an hks mega flow intake system (some movement required), however, I want to keep my stock cover that sits over the front mount point of the smic and holds the ac drier. Is this possible? Do I have to cut the Greddy top mount duct to allow the stock cover to still push air up through to the air pump?Thanks in advance
01-27-18, 06:56 PM
#3
with a little turning and pushing the intakes and intercooler should easily fit under the stock top duct cover thing. the air deflector theyre referring to is just a cover type thing that helps block radiator air going to your intakes. imagine a square sheet of aluminum that you just set over top of the radiator fan under the intakes to keep the air from being drawn into the filters.
Last edited by cr-rex; 01-27-18 at 07:02 PM.
01-27-18, 07:42 PM
#4
with a little turning and pushing the intakes and intercooler should easily fit under the stock top duct cover thing. the air deflector theyre referring to is just a cover type thing that helps block radiator air going to your intakes. imagine a square sheet of aluminum that you just set over top of the radiator fan under the intakes to keep the air from being drawn into the filters.
Thanks. Just got an early notice email from you but I guess we crossed paths as I was uploading the pictures. So to address your points. The deflector is not needed as it was for the air intake and I am no longer stock there? (Forget the fact that the hks intakes breaths hot air for now - smdh). The hks intakes are screwing up my mount points as it comes with a prefab bracket that holds up one intake and the upper radiator hose. Not an easy move. (Still planning)But how to handle the top air box (feeds to air pump) with the rectangular duct that still goes into the intercooler air duct? The Greddy smic cover sits in the way. Do I cut the duct rectangle through the greedy cover flap?Thanks.
01-28-18, 09:47 AM
#5
Lol yes. As soon as I pressed submit, your second post showed up and my post made no sense after that so I hit it with the ninja edit lol.
The mount brackets for your intakes can be remade or modified for this situation. It's not all that critical they sit where hks had intended. As far as the stock upper duct, the air path would be: in from the bumper, it splits with some going to the intercooler and the rest going to the battery and into the duct then back out into the stock air box. Since you don't have the stock air box the air would just be vented to the area the box would be but with the flat duct for the smic you're using the air has no way to get through the stock duct. By cutting a hole into the new smic duct, you give the air the opportunity to go where it was intended with the drawback of stealing it from the intercooler. Honestly, that air is more valuable through your intercooler that going to yur intakes. Especially if you don't block off the intakes from sucking up the hot air from your radiator. Once those fans kick on, whatever air WOULD BE coming out of that duct will be negated and wasted. Hopefully that made sense
The mount brackets for your intakes can be remade or modified for this situation. It's not all that critical they sit where hks had intended. As far as the stock upper duct, the air path would be: in from the bumper, it splits with some going to the intercooler and the rest going to the battery and into the duct then back out into the stock air box. Since you don't have the stock air box the air would just be vented to the area the box would be but with the flat duct for the smic you're using the air has no way to get through the stock duct. By cutting a hole into the new smic duct, you give the air the opportunity to go where it was intended with the drawback of stealing it from the intercooler. Honestly, that air is more valuable through your intercooler that going to yur intakes. Especially if you don't block off the intakes from sucking up the hot air from your radiator. Once those fans kick on, whatever air WOULD BE coming out of that duct will be negated and wasted. Hopefully that made sense
01-28-18, 10:43 AM
#6
Lol yes. As soon as I pressed submit, your second post showed up and my post made no sense after that so I hit it with the ninja edit lol.
The mount brackets for your intakes can be remade or modified for this situation. It's not all that critical they sit where hks had intended. As far as the stock upper duct, the air path would be: in from the bumper, it splits with some going to the intercooler and the rest going to the battery and into the duct then back out into the stock air box. Since you don't have the stock air box the air would just be vented to the area the box would be but with the flat duct for the smic you're using the air has no way to get through the stock duct. By cutting a hole into the new smic duct, you give the air the opportunity to go where it was intended with the drawback of stealing it from the intercooler. Honestly, that air is more valuable through your intercooler that going to yur intakes. Especially if you don't block off the intakes from sucking up the hot air from your radiator. Once those fans kick on, whatever air WOULD BE coming out of that duct will be negated and wasted. Hopefully that made sense
The mount brackets for your intakes can be remade or modified for this situation. It's not all that critical they sit where hks had intended. As far as the stock upper duct, the air path would be: in from the bumper, it splits with some going to the intercooler and the rest going to the battery and into the duct then back out into the stock air box. Since you don't have the stock air box the air would just be vented to the area the box would be but with the flat duct for the smic you're using the air has no way to get through the stock duct. By cutting a hole into the new smic duct, you give the air the opportunity to go where it was intended with the drawback of stealing it from the intercooler. Honestly, that air is more valuable through your intercooler that going to yur intakes. Especially if you don't block off the intakes from sucking up the hot air from your radiator. Once those fans kick on, whatever air WOULD BE coming out of that duct will be negated and wasted. Hopefully that made sense
1. I will move the HKS air intake brace over by one mount point - that should work. Question, if the brace is indeed HKS, do stock FDs come with an upper rad coolant hose brace? I have a brace that is welded to the bottom part of the HKS intake brace that the upper rad hose sits on rather snugly.
2. Definitely prefer air fully through the duct and the SMIC front face... however, sealing off the upper air junction means the Air Pump will have no feed. unfortunately, the HKS intakes have no additional inlet port I can connect to. So I think this means that the upper cover needs to stay? I will need to dremel out the upper passage through the Greddy mount plate it looks like.
3. I would appreciate some pictures, if any, of the air deflection metal sheet that gets the air away from the air intakes and possibly the bottom of the SMIC. How is it installed or angled? I can create one myself I just want to make sure I am not deflecting the air to another bad spot.
Many thanks for your thoughts again.
AA
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01-30-18, 12:46 AM
#8
1. Yes the stock FD comes with a little brace thing for the upper coolant hose. It has some sort of weird hook thing on it. It's a funny looking part that just has an oem look to it. I implied that your intakes came with an additional brace to bolster it to that cross bar that the intercooler and everything sits on. If you just play with the bracketry and mounting, you'll get it all to work.
2. The air pump doesn't HAVE to draw air in through the intakes. Honestly it can just be left open to draw in unfiltered air. It's not on all the time you know. If you'd like, you can get a breather filter and some large diameter hose and put that on the air pump inlet. Or better yet, delete it entirely if you don't have any emissions requirements. It's really non-essential even on a stock car.
3. Yup, seems like you got that figured out. It's literally just a sheet of anything that you can form to block the air
2. The air pump doesn't HAVE to draw air in through the intakes. Honestly it can just be left open to draw in unfiltered air. It's not on all the time you know. If you'd like, you can get a breather filter and some large diameter hose and put that on the air pump inlet. Or better yet, delete it entirely if you don't have any emissions requirements. It's really non-essential even on a stock car.
3. Yup, seems like you got that figured out. It's literally just a sheet of anything that you can form to block the air
01-30-18, 03:12 PM
#9
Now I know why there were so many before me saying “not a direct drop in.” Lol
1) Okay moved the air intake bracket over by one mount point approx 1 inch. Had to go from double bolted mount to only one and also bore out the mount hole to allow a slight 1/4 inch shift left in addition to the move to clear way for the Greddy mount point on the main frame. Also took the brace to a metal fab shop. $15 later and the upper rad support arm was 1 inch shorter. HKS super Mega flow intakes mounted successfully the rad upper hose is resting easy.
2) Dummied up a partial air duct for metal shop to fabricate for me. Let’s see how it turns out. It will allow me to keep the factory cover box. But I’m leaning towards your suggestion of just not feeding the air pump from there. The duct should cover the open face of the IC and will pad the sides with some dense foam to hold it steady and as airtight as possible. (found a dense, closed-cell foam on Amazon that operates in 0 to 150 degrees C)
3) Next items are to test fit the Greddy again because even after lowering a mount point of an AC line on the frame (next boltbover) the Greddy still hits the top of the mount's flange bolt. If I raise the unit I know I will have hood clearance issues so this is about to get interesting. Maybe a solid 1/4 inch washer with will work.
4) Oh also have a koyo n-flo in play. Figured if I was going to have winter downtime I would do as much as possible. Install on this went well following Banzai and others comments. Found it was easier to install the radiator first and then install the fans and shroud after the fact. Much easier.
5) final item will be a heat shield underneath both the smic and the intakes. My question is doesn’t this mean that the fans are trapped blowing hot air below the main support brace? Or is this totally acceptable?
AA
2) Dummied up a partial air duct for metal shop to fabricate for me. Let’s see how it turns out. It will allow me to keep the factory cover box. But I’m leaning towards your suggestion of just not feeding the air pump from there. The duct should cover the open face of the IC and will pad the sides with some dense foam to hold it steady and as airtight as possible. (found a dense, closed-cell foam on Amazon that operates in 0 to 150 degrees C)
3) Next items are to test fit the Greddy again because even after lowering a mount point of an AC line on the frame (next boltbover) the Greddy still hits the top of the mount's flange bolt. If I raise the unit I know I will have hood clearance issues so this is about to get interesting. Maybe a solid 1/4 inch washer with will work.
4) Oh also have a koyo n-flo in play. Figured if I was going to have winter downtime I would do as much as possible. Install on this went well following Banzai and others comments. Found it was easier to install the radiator first and then install the fans and shroud after the fact. Much easier.
5) final item will be a heat shield underneath both the smic and the intakes. My question is doesn’t this mean that the fans are trapped blowing hot air below the main support brace? Or is this totally acceptable?
AA
Last edited by Aarkaah; 01-30-18 at 03:21 PM. Reason: Spacing
01-30-18, 04:19 PM
#11
@Narfle,
Appreciate the input and caution.
2. At $200 for the Cool Charge 2 duct....and still requiring trim and ac drier play around .. I'm not sure it will accomplish what I want... https://www.rx7.org/Robinette/ic_duct.htm. I think fabrication will me a better duct for less... a cross - between stock that mates to a fab Greedy IC face... fingers crossed.
5. point noted...that's why I asked.
Thanks again.
Appreciate the input and caution.
2. At $200 for the Cool Charge 2 duct....and still requiring trim and ac drier play around .. I'm not sure it will accomplish what I want... https://www.rx7.org/Robinette/ic_duct.htm. I think fabrication will me a better duct for less... a cross - between stock that mates to a fab Greedy IC face... fingers crossed.
5. point noted...that's why I asked.
Thanks again.
01-30-18, 04:47 PM
#12
This fella had a similar experience: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12163819
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Aarkaah (01-30-18)
01-30-18, 07:00 PM
#13
This fella had a similar experience: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12163819
You are spot on man! 1,000 thanks. Funny but I guess the search failed me on this one as it’s under a build thread. Exact same approach here. Koyo, Greddy, PFC. Same issues with mounts and ducts. I am trying to get a duct similar but minor changes to this one in the thread.Will use that as a reference going forward and post final update when done. Thanks again.
02-17-18, 07:12 PM
#14
Progress...
ok. Unfreaking believable! After several attempts I got an acceptable duct fabricated. Most of the time was spent testing 2 cheap templates from metal shop before the final item was produced in .5 gauge aluminum.
The problems I had were because the koyo nflow places the duct at a little higher and angled position - first attempts met with failure because I didn’t account for the back of th fans interfering with the test duct. Final duct actually fits hella tight! It actually snaps on and is fabricated to angle outward by 1/2 inch on the bottom ledge. I have measurements if anyone needs one to be made at a metal shop. However my OCD is telling me I can do it much cleaner so I may redo in a month or so. Price should be $60-$80 to fabricate if you have a first time fitment success. Pics below.
02-17-18, 07:26 PM
#16
Lessons learned
1. Fab the duct at a metal shop. (Don’t bother buying sheet metal or alum or cutters etc. it’s cheaper to go to a metal shop and you can’t fabricate anything as well as they can.)
2. Use a cardboard mock up. When happy with it, drop it off at the metal shop and go relax. 3. Would I do it again? Yes. Now that I understand point 1&2 are golden. Thanks for everyone’s advice and guidance.
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