Narfle

iTrader: (16)

So im about to throw on Dale's check valves and im wondering if theyre directional like the stock units. Anyone know? Theyre kindof flat on one side.

Thankyou,
Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

There should be a little arrow visible. If not, just blow through it. You'll figure it out soon enough

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

They wouldn't be much of a check valve if they weren't directional.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Nah def not lol

A check valve is one way out, no way in. Theres an arrow on the valves themselves to show you where it should go.

Or just blow through it.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

I dont know how they workor what they do!!! I just know mine are broken. Its taken me like 4 years of ownership to get this far! Thankyou very much for the help.

Dave

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

OH CRAP! I just broke a plastic nipple and i cant see where it came from. It was one of the valves at the front of the UIM. I was very unhappy about having to remove the UIM and i have a feeling im about to get unhappier.

Dave


EDIT:Oh yay. I can see where it came from now. It came from what I assume to be a solenoid Underneath everything possible

What do i need to do to get to this thing and where do I get a new one?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Found a site in the sticky that is very helpful and it seems like the biggest pains will be locating a new solenoid and making sure all the vacuum hoses are correct. Im still pissed as this will set my car running back about another week.

On the plus side I found another uncovered nipple and will probably uncover more vaccuum problems that would explain my previously mildly erratic idle.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you need to remove a solenoid, just remove the coils and coil tray. Then if you disconnect the solenoid electrical connector, you should be able to slide it out toward the drivers side. I find that I need a long narrow screwdriver or two to undo the latch on the connector and to gently pry it away from the solenoid.

There is a plastic latch under the solenoid that holds it to the bottom of the rack. The first solenoid is the hardest because of the lack of space.

Dave

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

You are awesome. Its the first solenoid(the one that has a check valve) so its gonna be a pain(it will be either way I do it). Ill try your method first and if that doesnt work ill have to remove then entire rack. I much prefer your method though. Im going to go look and see if I can do this.

Will removing the coils help with this first one? Seems like the coils are not in the way but a lot of other stuff is.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Even when I remove the whole rack I start by removing the solenoids one-by-one.

Yes, the coils are the way to go since the solenoids come out toward that side. Once you get the latch pushed open, get the other screwdriver between the connector and solenoid and twist since the terminals have a really good grip.

The plastic latch clipping the solenoid to the rack is fragile. Gently pull on the solenoid body and use the screwdriver or something to find the tab end and disengage it. You'll know when you get it loose. If you yank it will break easily.

Dave

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

If it breaks its of no consequence any longer since im going to buy a new(read working) one. Its the new one ill have to worry about breaking

Thankyou so much for all youre help youve made this about 100x easier to deal with.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

BTW, the valves are basically shaped like an arrow. They should always point towards the intake manifold, save for the one going to the black pressure tank, and the valve should point towards the pressure tank.

Dale

MontegoRx

Dale, this reminds me... I got your check valves installed a while back with some help from dgeesaman. They're SO much easier to work with since they're about 1/4 of the size of the stock valves. So far, they seem to be working fine, too.

Barban, I assume you have the full vac diagram since you mentioned the sticky? The advice I got when I was looking to troubleshoot and replace solenoids and vac lines was to purchase the turbo control from Mazda and the rest used. I did that, and they ran about $80 each from Mazda (I bought two). I wanted to make absolutely sure that those weren't failed, and the rest I didn't think were so critical. Good luck with whatever you choose to do with it.

dufourmike

iTrader: (1)

If your hard up for a check valve, just go to an aquarium supply store. They are never more than a buck, and some have a crome cover, if you want to be bling.

WaLieN

A lot of these types of check valves are not suited for automotive use (high temps, chemicals, etc.).

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Just a quick quest. What would happen if the check valve was reversed just for the pressure tank.

I purchase some check valves from you like 2 months ago and i "THINK" i put all 4 of them pointing the same way.

Just wondering what would be the symptoms.

TIA

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

horrible boost.