I get basically NO heat at all from my '93 touring..

while generally I won't be driving it in the winter we appear to be having an exceptionally balmy one and I've been driving it a fair amount... but having no heat sucks ***.

Sometimes I'll get lukewarm air but nothing anywhere close to what anyone would call warm, and sometimes its downright ICE COLD despite the temperature gauge being at halfway.

The blower sucks ***** too, it's far from windy....

Any ideas where I can look?

The heater core isn't plugged from inside (coolant) from what I can tell.

I've eliminated the AST but every time I check the coolant level it's totally full so I don't think it can be an air pocket.

 

i know what you mean.... i have a simular problem just not as bad. i have heat on all except the upper "face" vents. i thought it was that there was air but im full on coolant! hopefully someone can explain something here!!!

 

buy a new thremostat a oem one not aftermarket will probly fix the problem

 

You won't get "hot" air from the "face" vent setting. Hot air only comes from the defrost and floor/foot setting, by design. It's suppose to prevent the driver from becoming too comfortable and falling asleep at the wheel. If your problem is something beyond that, then I'd check the heater core.

 

edit:

 

^^^^ yep check the owners manual, it will tell you that the heat out put is most effective on defrost or defrost/floor setting. While it won't run you out of the car it is quite comfortable.

 

While yours might not, mine will. I can't leave it on for too long as it gets unbearably hot inside, even during the winter. I did freak out a little before I knew that the face vents didn't work though.

 

Try recirculation too. Otherwise it just draws in cold *** air which doesn't heat easily.

 

i just built a new motor and a oem thermostat made its way in. everything else is hot! and my friends fd has heat on the face vents...??? hopefully its not the core that must be a bitch to get out! any other opinions?

 

the pathways in the core may become clogged with gunk.....theres good read on here about how someone pumped some kind of cleaner though the core using a small pump and got all that crap out.....

 

Crappy heat here too.

 

I believe that the problem is likely a bad "air mix" controller. If you get full pressure from the blower, but cold air, the air mixture is likely bad. The FSM shows that you have to pull some of the dash to repair the problem. Because of that, I'm not fixing my luke warm heater.

 

That was me. My core was totally plugged up from block-seal treatments, and I got it 100% opened up by circulating a combination of Castrol SUPERCLEAN and Preston SUPERFLUSH using a Little Giant submersible pump. I wanted to have everything clean as a whistle and working perfectly when I put my new engine in. And that heater will COOK you, make no mistake.

 

I don't even get luke warm!

if it's like 25F out, the air coming out of the vents will be 26F tops!

Unless I really beat the snot out of the car for a while, then maybe MAYBE I'll get 30-35F!

And this is out of the defrost and floor vents, the face vents seem to be about the same.

How did mazda screw this up, my FB's and FC's have always had fantastic heat.

There's no "block seal" ever been in my car as far as I know.... is the heater core clogging up a common issue or just that one isolated case?

 

canada guy,

you need to flush your coolant system, the heater core in particular.

the heat my first FD sucked ***** because i had air in my heater core. the heat in my current FD works fine, just not out of the dash vents unless its on recirculate (by design, for what ever reason)