Coolant warning light/buzzer... Whats going on?
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Coolant warning light/buzzer... Whats going on?
The warning buzzer/light goes on everytime I stop my car after a drive. It doesnt come on while I'm driving nor does it come on after the car has been sitting for awhile. I look under my car after letting it sit and sometimes I see a small puddle of water/coolant mix under the overflow resevoir. I check my coolant everytime before I start my car and its always full.
So, whats setting off my warning buzzer/light? Could the sensor be off/broken? I have a feeling my resevoir is cracked because when I try to fill it up to the min line it always leaks out. (I'm going to be replacing it. Anyone have one for sale?)
I hope the cause is something small and not a problem with my motor. Its a reman with ~40k on it.
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
So, whats setting off my warning buzzer/light? Could the sensor be off/broken? I have a feeling my resevoir is cracked because when I try to fill it up to the min line it always leaks out. (I'm going to be replacing it. Anyone have one for sale?)
I hope the cause is something small and not a problem with my motor. Its a reman with ~40k on it.
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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I had a similar problem. I got under it and started poking around, turns out one of the hoses that connects the overflow tank to the ast had disappeared, so I just replaced it, and now it works fine. Josh
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thats your replace engine light
I've experienced the same situation when i bought my FD. the main filler neck had a chip in it, hence my motor on the way out right now. I had mazda replace it, but the damage had already been done Gives me a reason to go with a ported motor though
I've experienced the same situation when i bought my FD. the main filler neck had a chip in it, hence my motor on the way out right now. I had mazda replace it, but the damage had already been done Gives me a reason to go with a ported motor though
#5
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Originally posted by RedR1
thats your replace engine light
I've experienced the same situation when i bought my FD. the main filler neck had a chip in it, hence my motor on the way out right now. I had mazda replace it, but the damage had already been done Gives me a reason to go with a ported motor though
thats your replace engine light
I've experienced the same situation when i bought my FD. the main filler neck had a chip in it, hence my motor on the way out right now. I had mazda replace it, but the damage had already been done Gives me a reason to go with a ported motor though
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Had a little problem like this a couple days ago. During a coolant flush, the hose clamp on the bottom of my AST to radiator hose was broken. It leaked when I let the car idle and shut off. And my overflow tank would leak out as well.
I read somewhere that when the engine is running it creates a vacuum that pulls the coolant inside the engine, so that why you're not seeing any leak while driving? Right?
Just check your hose connections. Lift your car up, have someone pour some water into the system get under there and see where its coming from.
I read somewhere that when the engine is running it creates a vacuum that pulls the coolant inside the engine, so that why you're not seeing any leak while driving? Right?
Just check your hose connections. Lift your car up, have someone pour some water into the system get under there and see where its coming from.
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#8
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honestly...you shouldnt be driving it til its figured out....they arent kidding about the replace engine light part of it...say bye bye to coolant seals if you arent careful.
good luck
j
good luck
j
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This just started a couple days ago, and when I checked then, it was LOW on coolant.
I had checked the day before and it was filled. No Buzzer/Light problems.
Then a couple days, it just started after I parked.
Both filler cap side and ast cap side are filled to the top everytime I check now. I will let it sit overnight tonight and check again in the morning.
I haven't noticed particularly any more smoke from the exhaust either. No smoke when warm, little (white) smoke when from a cold start. Not thick though. But its always had it ever since I've gotten the car.
I had checked the day before and it was filled. No Buzzer/Light problems.
Then a couple days, it just started after I parked.
Both filler cap side and ast cap side are filled to the top everytime I check now. I will let it sit overnight tonight and check again in the morning.
I haven't noticed particularly any more smoke from the exhaust either. No smoke when warm, little (white) smoke when from a cold start. Not thick though. But its always had it ever since I've gotten the car.
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on cold days when i started the car, it would puff a little white. I wouldnt pay it any mind, and go inside to grab my portfolio's, and go back outside, and it looked liek SWAT threw a few smoke grenades in my yard. . . .
When its an early symptom, you wont see much smoke. When you can see LOTS of smoke, is when you know its too late
When its an early symptom, you wont see much smoke. When you can see LOTS of smoke, is when you know its too late
#12
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yup...get your cooling problem fixed...simple as that.
I lost two motors due to heat and cooling problems...
odds are that you dont have a real temp guage in there..that stock guage sucks
I lost my first motor..the light came on...I was naieve a few years ago toward this...drove home slow...it was nice and cool outside...parked the car....water poured out on the ground and it would not start the next morning.
temps in an rx are like samuel jackson in pulp fiction..ya dont **** with them...solve yer problems or they will **** with you.
good luck
j
I lost two motors due to heat and cooling problems...
odds are that you dont have a real temp guage in there..that stock guage sucks
I lost my first motor..the light came on...I was naieve a few years ago toward this...drove home slow...it was nice and cool outside...parked the car....water poured out on the ground and it would not start the next morning.
temps in an rx are like samuel jackson in pulp fiction..ya dont **** with them...solve yer problems or they will **** with you.
good luck
j
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lmao, funny u mention Samuel L Jackson and P. Fiction, that is my fave movie, and when i knew the motor left, i just sat there, and all i could say was. . . ."thats some f*cked up repugnant sh*t"
#14
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Originally posted by Black se7en
This just started a couple days ago, and when I checked then, it was LOW on coolant.
I had checked the day before and it was filled. No Buzzer/Light problems.
Then a couple days, it just started after I parked.
Both filler cap side and ast cap side are filled to the top everytime I check now. I will let it sit overnight tonight and check again in the morning.
I haven't noticed particularly any more smoke from the exhaust either. No smoke when warm, little (white) smoke when from a cold start. Not thick though. But its always had it ever since I've gotten the car.
This just started a couple days ago, and when I checked then, it was LOW on coolant.
I had checked the day before and it was filled. No Buzzer/Light problems.
Then a couple days, it just started after I parked.
Both filler cap side and ast cap side are filled to the top everytime I check now. I will let it sit overnight tonight and check again in the morning.
I haven't noticed particularly any more smoke from the exhaust either. No smoke when warm, little (white) smoke when from a cold start. Not thick though. But its always had it ever since I've gotten the car.
Check yer ****...most likely it's already to late.
-Dave
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Hey man, FD3BOOST and RIKKI tried to help me with my similar problem for weeks, and then they slapped me around a few times, and made me wake up. And then FD3BOOST started to have the same problems. We have both been to lots of meetings, and we both accepted the fact that we lost them Hopefully it is not your motor, but I wished for too long. Now my motor is getting rebuilt by Reactive Racing, and now I look at it like this. It is a good time to get a port job some of these new smilies are great.
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I don't know.
Ivan had checked the car before I bought it and he said everything was in good condition.
He was the one who put in the reman motor and also the only mechanic that the previous owner used.
I put maybe 5-6k on it since I've had it, and NEVER ran it hard while cold.
The owner before me had his original motor last about 110k before putting in the reman so I know he didn't beat up on the motor and he knew how to take care of it.
I'm going to replace the AST and overflow resevoir and hope that its just a crack or leak somewhere.
Hopefully I don't need a new motor. I thought that if it was a coolant seal problem, the motor would be eating up coolant. But everytime I check now, its still full and I don't need to even top it off...
Ivan had checked the car before I bought it and he said everything was in good condition.
He was the one who put in the reman motor and also the only mechanic that the previous owner used.
I put maybe 5-6k on it since I've had it, and NEVER ran it hard while cold.
The owner before me had his original motor last about 110k before putting in the reman so I know he didn't beat up on the motor and he knew how to take care of it.
I'm going to replace the AST and overflow resevoir and hope that its just a crack or leak somewhere.
Hopefully I don't need a new motor. I thought that if it was a coolant seal problem, the motor would be eating up coolant. But everytime I check now, its still full and I don't need to even top it off...
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yer not getting it....
it can be a brand new motor...you only need to overheat it ONCE.
dont drive the car...if you do you might as well start emptying your bank acct.
if yer motor is ok...and hopefully so then you wont be cooking those seals any longer.
dood..this car is not a friggen honda...the rotary is a fragile fragile thing under the wrong conditions...and your driving it in the wrong conditions...listen to the boys who did it...trust
get your car fixed before its too late...if its not too late already.
one overheat...one buzzer...on red light...thats all it takes to blow it.
dont believe me ...ask around...youll get the answer from everyone.
j
it can be a brand new motor...you only need to overheat it ONCE.
dont drive the car...if you do you might as well start emptying your bank acct.
if yer motor is ok...and hopefully so then you wont be cooking those seals any longer.
dood..this car is not a friggen honda...the rotary is a fragile fragile thing under the wrong conditions...and your driving it in the wrong conditions...listen to the boys who did it...trust
get your car fixed before its too late...if its not too late already.
one overheat...one buzzer...on red light...thats all it takes to blow it.
dont believe me ...ask around...youll get the answer from everyone.
j
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you need to get a water temp guage immediately.
that stock guage says yer not overheating when you are and says you are fine when you are not...ya know.
check yer temps...if you are over 105-111 celcius then you are boiling/frying your coolant seals like eggs at a diner...and there is a big fat guy ready to eat them...that fat guy is the mechanic you are gonna have to take your car to when you dump your savings into his big hungry gullet.
big fat guys love fried eggs...yers are over easy right now....another day or two and they are gonna be hard fried and crispy.
yum yum
j
that stock guage says yer not overheating when you are and says you are fine when you are not...ya know.
check yer temps...if you are over 105-111 celcius then you are boiling/frying your coolant seals like eggs at a diner...and there is a big fat guy ready to eat them...that fat guy is the mechanic you are gonna have to take your car to when you dump your savings into his big hungry gullet.
big fat guys love fried eggs...yers are over easy right now....another day or two and they are gonna be hard fried and crispy.
yum yum
j
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