Compression on a FD
#1
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Compression on a FD
Does anyone know what the compression is supposed to be on an FD? I'm going home to do a compression check, so I need to know ASAP. Thanks in advance.
Todd
Todd
#3
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You can measure it however you want, but the minimum standard for the '93 shop manual is 7.0 kg/cm^2 or 100psi, with a 1.5kg/cm^2 maximum differential between faces. This was revised down to 6.0kg/cm^2 or 85psi with the same differential for the '94 and '95 shop manuals. The factory new spec was 8.5kg/cm^2 or 120psi.
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No lower than 85 psi with no greater a difference between chambers than 21 psi.
An easy way to do it is to do the test with the little check valve in the tester to see how much the total compression is. Then take the valve out and see how much the needle moves for all three chambers for each rotor. They should bounce pretty evenly.
An easy way to do it is to do the test with the little check valve in the tester to see how much the total compression is. Then take the valve out and see how much the needle moves for all three chambers for each rotor. They should bounce pretty evenly.
#6
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I just took the rest of the day off work and tested my compression. The front rotor came in at about 95-97 PSI. The rear came in at about 95-97 PSI too. So I know that isn't the problem. Thanks for the help.
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#9
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Originally posted by jpandes
I bet your relived to find out that your apex seals are still intact...congrats!
I bet your relived to find out that your apex seals are still intact...congrats!
#14
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Its actually pretty simple. I just borrowed a compression meter from a mechanic friend of mine(Steve Dewitt). Then I took the trailing plug out of the block on the front rotor, stuck the meter in the spark plug hole, and had someone(GZ91RX7) crank it over a few times. Then you just read the meter, and then do it to the other rotor. Make sure to disable the ignition system before doing this though. Really easy. Good luck.
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