compresion test results
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: islamabad, pakistan
compresion test results
well my car had flooded once again for some reason..so i figured i shud do a compression test done since the plugs were already out for the unflooding procedure.
back rotor ...84 psi
front rotor..87 psi
is this good or bad. this is before i started the car after the deflooding..when the plugs were still out.
back rotor ...84 psi
front rotor..87 psi
is this good or bad. this is before i started the car after the deflooding..when the plugs were still out.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
You won't get accurate results testing a flooded engine. Unflood it, let it warm up and let the battery charge up, and THEN test it.
The same thing that causes the engine not to start, causes compression to be low. Which is why it won't start.
Remove EGI fuse, remove plugs, shoot excess fuel out, inject oil, clean and replace plugs, replace EGI, fire up. Let warm up or better yet drive it around a little, then shut it off, remove EGI and plugs, compression test.
90-100 is weak but still good enough to run.
100-110 is healthy.
110-120 is very strong.
120-125 is perfect.
The same thing that causes the engine not to start, causes compression to be low. Which is why it won't start.
Remove EGI fuse, remove plugs, shoot excess fuel out, inject oil, clean and replace plugs, replace EGI, fire up. Let warm up or better yet drive it around a little, then shut it off, remove EGI and plugs, compression test.
90-100 is weak but still good enough to run.
100-110 is healthy.
110-120 is very strong.
120-125 is perfect.
You won't get accurate results testing a flooded engine. Unflood it, let it warm up and let the battery charge up, and THEN test it.
The same thing that causes the engine not to start, causes compression to be low. Which is why it won't start.
Remove EGI fuse, remove plugs, shoot excess fuel out, inject oil, clean and replace plugs, replace EGI, fire up. Let warm up or better yet drive it around a little, then shut it off, remove EGI and plugs, compression test.
90-100 is weak but still good enough to run.
100-110 is healthy.
110-120 is very strong.
120-125 is perfect.
The same thing that causes the engine not to start, causes compression to be low. Which is why it won't start.
Remove EGI fuse, remove plugs, shoot excess fuel out, inject oil, clean and replace plugs, replace EGI, fire up. Let warm up or better yet drive it around a little, then shut it off, remove EGI and plugs, compression test.
90-100 is weak but still good enough to run.
100-110 is healthy.
110-120 is very strong.
120-125 is perfect.
As far as conducting the test, you can get a general idea of the compression by using a conventional compression tester, but ya gotta know how to do it. Charge the battery first. Remove both leading (lower) spark plugs. Then you need to hold in the little button on the side of the gauge while you crank the car and read the maximum needle bumps for each rotor face. And you need to have someone depress the gas pedal to the floor while cranking the engine. The engine should be warmed up before the test, but that is not absolutely necessary.
Unfortunately, you cannot compare the readings with the Mazda specification unless you know the engine cranking speed at the time of the test. And you can't get that from a conventional compression tester. But, as I said, you can get a general idea of the health of the engine this way. Good luck!
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Note that this procedure can be used to test junkyard engines or engines out of the car. You will need a 19mm socket and ratchet to turn the front crank pulley bolt clockwise in quick, long strokes as possible to get a somewhat accurate reading. You will obviously not be able to turn the engine much at a time, so try to count each pulse as you go.
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