cold compression test 90PSI
#4
Blow up or win
Please guys, allow me to be the first.
I've got 40 psi in one of my tires. Do I need new tires?
It's about as relevant as you asking if you need a rebuild with a "compression" reading...
It does not mean a THING, it's worthless. Rotaries cannot be "measured" with a typical compression tester.
It requires a specialized - and of course expensive - (about $1300.00) OEM Mazda tester to evaluate them correctly.
Really, you need to spend some more time getting edumacated about rotaries (or find a professional rotary tech) before asking questions like this. There are 2 or 3 in CA that actually know what they are doing.
There is this amazing thing called a SEARCH FUNCTION!
BTW, Welcome to the Forum!
I've got 40 psi in one of my tires. Do I need new tires?
It's about as relevant as you asking if you need a rebuild with a "compression" reading...
It does not mean a THING, it's worthless. Rotaries cannot be "measured" with a typical compression tester.
It requires a specialized - and of course expensive - (about $1300.00) OEM Mazda tester to evaluate them correctly.
Really, you need to spend some more time getting edumacated about rotaries (or find a professional rotary tech) before asking questions like this. There are 2 or 3 in CA that actually know what they are doing.
There is this amazing thing called a SEARCH FUNCTION!
BTW, Welcome to the Forum!
Last edited by RonKMiller; 12-07-03 at 09:18 PM.
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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WOW! They won't work huh? Guess I should change the way I work cause you said........ They WILL give you a general idea of the engine. As long as the readings come up(rise threw the #'s) evenly, you should be alright. NOW SO Ron doesn't freak-out on me, I agree that to get a specific # the $$$ tool is needed. However I have personaly diagnosed at least 4 "rotary" engines with a traditional compression tester. And I was CORRECT in all cases regarding a cracked apex seal.. Sorry Ron K.!! Also try and do a test when the engine is warmed up. Aloha, and welcome.( sorry for the bad first impression made by some.)
Last edited by BigIslandSevens; 12-08-03 at 12:18 AM.
#6
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yeah i don't get some of the members....they can be SO hard on new members. Oh one more tip, try using the search function on the top. Most of the questions can be answered by using search function and reading them close. If you ask something that has been delt with and don't search alot of people are going to punch your lights out, like what happen here.
-joe
-joe
#7
Tony Stewart Killer.
iTrader: (12)
is the car hard to start up at all?
especially when the car is already hot it should be hard to start it if there's a real compression problem
if it takes 5 seconds or something thats no good
mine usually starts up in 2.5 or so when warm and immediataly when cold maybe .5 seconds
especially when the car is already hot it should be hard to start it if there's a real compression problem
if it takes 5 seconds or something thats no good
mine usually starts up in 2.5 or so when warm and immediataly when cold maybe .5 seconds
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#8
Tenseiga
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that'll be enought to start ithe car if you can't. if you're really haven't problems starting it put some atf fuild in the spark plugs. if that doesnt' work tow start.
as far as i'm concerned if it doesn't smoke and hasn't lost an apex seal u don't *need* a rebuild.
I think if u take the check valve out and monitor each rotor face it's more than sufficent to determine the engine's compression health
as far as i'm concerned if it doesn't smoke and hasn't lost an apex seal u don't *need* a rebuild.
I think if u take the check valve out and monitor each rotor face it's more than sufficent to determine the engine's compression health
Last edited by Sesshoumaru; 12-08-03 at 12:33 PM.
#9
Blow up or win
Originally posted by BigIslandSevens
WOW! They won't work huh? Guess I should change the way I work cause you said........ They WILL give you a general idea of the engine. As long as the readings come up(rise threw the #'s) evenly, you should be alright. NOW SO Ron doesn't freak-out on me, I agree that to get a specific # the $$$ tool is needed. However I have personaly diagnosed at least 4 "rotary" engines with a traditional compression tester. And I was CORRECT in all cases regarding a cracked apex seal.. Sorry Ron K.!! Also try and do a test when the engine is warmed up. Aloha, and welcome.( sorry for the bad first impression made by some.)
WOW! They won't work huh? Guess I should change the way I work cause you said........ They WILL give you a general idea of the engine. As long as the readings come up(rise threw the #'s) evenly, you should be alright. NOW SO Ron doesn't freak-out on me, I agree that to get a specific # the $$$ tool is needed. However I have personaly diagnosed at least 4 "rotary" engines with a traditional compression tester. And I was CORRECT in all cases regarding a cracked apex seal.. Sorry Ron K.!! Also try and do a test when the engine is warmed up. Aloha, and welcome.( sorry for the bad first impression made by some.)
Umm, I also said there were 2 or 3 guys in CA that know what they are doing with 13b's.
NONE in Hawaii. Aloha!
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Hahahahaha!!!! Thanks for the entertainment RonK. It's intelligent things like this, that make you such a well respected member of the forum. Any time your out here I would LOVE to meet you.(or when i come to where you live...where is that? Afraid people will come looking for you?)........ How old are you.? Am i supposed to be hurt by your immature flameing smiley's? Again thanks for the laugh!!!Go back to Altezzaville please!
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