Wouldn't making the plug wires longer hurt the spark performance?

 

I guess if you were to really lengthen them, but moving that short distance isn't that far, and as long as the plug wires are insulated enough, there should be no harm in it. Alot of people run their coils away from the stock area, and I haven't heard about any adverse side effects.

 

Would the ground for the coil is good with the T6061 alluminum?
To get maximum spark, you need to have the coil grounded really good to the same ground as the engine.
Knowing the engine supported by rubber and very minimal ground points(only 2, UIM and near oil pan), this might be a problem.

Just something to think about. I like the project though, and prefer to make direct wires from igniter(amp looking thing) to ignition coils.

 

i thought T6061 aluminum was conductive.... do you have any suggestions? Im planning on running a ground wire from the coils to the engine anyway....

 

ok got some info T6061 is 63% as conductive as Silver.... Most types of steel (stainless and mild) is only 12%, so the conductivity of it should be no problem, but now thinkin about it....

 

Why would anyone want to do this?

Here's a perfect example of why:

I'm putting in my new engine, new twins, and a new fuel setup. I will be keeping the rats nest and will need additional space for the -6AN SS fuel lines under the UIM.

Also, the more you pack into that tight area, the more heat it will retain.

One suggestion would be a reverse bracket that would act as a cover over the top (just for looks):
_ _
|

I would be interested if it's ready before I need one, otherwise I'll just make one.

 

ejmack1- How are you mounting the ignitor? Is that what the 2nd bracket is for? I made my own as well based off of clayne's. I made mine out of 16-16 gauge ( can't remember ) steel. On the bottom I welded on 2 6x1.00 bolts with a spacer on each to mount the ignitor. I also was able to fit all the bolt hole for the coils. It still has room in there. ( Not that all of them need to be used,..just FYI)

I can send you some pics of mine if you like. It is the first copy so it isn't absolutly pretty but it works. And i'll make a better one later on.

And Yanni, there are tons of reasons to do it. From a mechanic's point of view, it is soo easy to trouble shoot and repair. You may be able to get your UIM and elbow off in 30 mins., But i will have checked and replaced any coils that needed it and will be fixing something else by the time you get TO your coils. That is the MAIN reason I did mine. Others do it for the looks.To me that is just a added plus

 

Sorry Yanni just re-read and saw it was 2 minutes! .. either way I still can beat you there!

On a side note, why can't i edit? Anyone else getting a banned IP message?

 

The measurements are done.... just test fitting a cardboard template...

 

Oh okay..that is good then...I never thought aluminum is conductive.

 

Me niether, research proved us wrong though

Ok guys, here is the piece with exact dimensions in millimeters, i left a little room for adjustment on the bolts that attach to the fender, and the bracket for the ignitor...



I know a cover was requested so I drew one up. The corner of the engine bay has a diagonal piece that sticks out, so i had to cut out a part to avoid it...

 

does this mean this will get going soon?

 

well, i would like someone to retake measurements, so im not the only one measuring... although im 99.99% they are correct, and I allowed a little room just incase someones engine bay isn't precise...

I need to know what everyone wants...

we can go Black Anodized, Black Powder Coat, or brushed aluminum. Do people want a cover like the one i posted, one with just vents slots, or none at all?

Does everyone like the Coil identification lettering on the back of the bracket? I can get rid of that....

Sorry for all the options

 

One thing you should worry about(for some) is people without stock coils. I for one plan to not run the stock coils. So if you could just make me the bracket and drill the mounts but not the holes for where the coils mount to...I'm in(if they fit:/)

Also, can you do chrome, and I like the top plate, but get rid of the hyphen or raise it a little. Put it more up towards the center of the *7*. (RX-7)

 

I like your cover I would take one of those . Never even crossed my mind. very nice looking to hide it. But now it takes us as long as Surgemonster to get to them Sorry Yannij/k

 

I like it exactly the way you have it on the design, the only thing that you might want to change is the lettering of the rx-7 on the cover and make it more like the stock lettering.

 

Thanks! Exactly what I was thinking of for the cover!

 

K guys taking your suggestion....

for the guy that didn't want any holes drilled, lets get an idea of how many people want holes and no holes so I can get an idea on how to do this....

 

I want the holes drilled for a bolt on install....and can you change the RX-7 to normal writting the badge

 

Thats the only text that will allow a full R.... its either that R or just some vent holes in its place....

 

 

Its not allowing me to chrome Aluminum, I can have it anodized or powdercoated, or just brushed aluminum.

 

I wouldn't tap aluminum that's that thin, not worth the risk of stripping

I mean how much would the addition of some nuts cost?? not enough to take the risk


also I say anodize it, anodized parts retain their "metal" appearance instead of looking painted


edit: anodizing is cheap too

 

Definately interested in a kit for around $60-$70 with the holes drilled as well. That cover is actually pretty cool.

 

Personally, I like the identification holes for the coils, but I'd prefer the RX-7 lettering to be more like the stock lettering or none at all. Anodized sounds like the way to go.