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I’m in the process of changing my clutch for the first time and was wondering if this is an OEM clutch disk. Car only has about 90k on it so it could possibly be original. Just never seen one before so I’m not sure.
I never liked the feel of the clutch as the engagement was too quick. Feels very different from my previous FD. Still need to pull the flywheel and see if I can identify it as well.
when all is said and done I’m looking for an OEM feel as the car is basically stock so I’m probably going to get an exedy OEM kit. Just going to take my time and go through everything so I don’t have to do this again
Rivet pattern on the disc is certainly OEM - or a good copy. What you can see of the pressure plate would seem to confirm that's stock too.
Unless removing the flywheel for grinding and seal leaks, no need to do much investigation - the integral counterweight on the back gives the game away for an original installation!
Been a long time since I saw one but looks stock to me too.
Going “through everything“ can be a big list. In addition to a new clutch and PP…resurface FW, rear main seal, pilot bearing, clutch fork, release collar, rear transmission seal…and even front transmission seal…grease and fluids.
I’ll echo what’s been said here already. That looks like the oem one to me. If you do take the flywheel off to be resurfaced, which you should. Do yourself a favor and re-torque the tension bolts. Most people with stock or slightly modified cars run the act kit zx6-Hdss.
The stock-type Exedy clutch is the way to go on a stock or near-stock car. It will drive like the stock clutch and have OEM-quality.
If you are making more power and want to handle it, get the Exedy Stage 1. That's what I have. Just a little more pedal pressure than stock and I've had ZERO problems or slipping, making probably 320-340hp to the ground. Very easy to drive.
Rivet pattern on the disc is certainly OEM - or a good copy. What you can see of the pressure plate would seem to confirm that's stock too.
Unless removing the flywheel for grinding and seal leaks, no need to do much investigation - the integral counterweight on the back gives the game away for an original installation!
Thanks for the confirmation! Unfortunately I have to change the rear seal as I have a pretty bad oil leak so the flywheel is coming off next. This is what led me to drop the transmission in the first place. Now that I took a closer look at the clutch disk it looks like I have about 1mm left of material so it is done.
I chalk up the feel in the clutch being due to worn/old parts.
Been a long time since I saw one but looks stock to me too.
Going “through everything“ can be a big list. In addition to a new clutch and PP…resurface FW, rear main seal, pilot bearing, clutch fork, release collar, rear transmission seal…and even front transmission seal…grease and fluids.
I can see the rear transmission seal sweating so I'll change that for sure. Going to remove the fork today and clean it up for a closer look. Also need to look at the front transmission seal but since the rear is going I would expect the same issue on the front.
Hopefully will get my shopping list together in the next couple of days
The only reason I mentioned the front seal/input shaft seal is because a year or so ago I had to drop the transmission when mine started leaking. Like the rear tail housing seal, it’s cheap and really easy to do.
FWIW I did some reading on Racing Beat’s site and they suggested that R &R’ing the transmission tends to stress the seals…probably especially true on older ones. So…
Mazda uses a Daiken/Exedy clutch, so look for the symbol, it'll be on the disc
Found it on the transmission side.
Also had a close look at the fork and it looks fine so i’lll just leave it alone. I think the issues with them breaking are more due to upgraded pressure plates. We’ll see if I ever regret this decision
...FWIW I did some reading on Racing Beat’s site and they suggested that R &R’ing the transmission tends to stress the seals…probably especially true on older ones. So…
Yup - seals harden as they age, and expanding an old one more than normal due to designed-in play in the input shaft, etc., is very likely to leave it too loose to seal.
You can use digital calipers to measure how thick the clutch disc is, shop manual has a wear spec.
Rock Auto has stock Exedy kits, I think Amazon does too.
Dale
Looks like about 1mm left on both sides. 3.5mm is what is mentioned in the service manual so it is due. I decided to go with the stage 1 rotary performance kit. Figure can't go wrong with them.
Coincidently on the way home from work yesterday the clutch started to slip on my 8. Looks like I'm going to get pretty good at this...
09-27-22, 11:13 PM
