clogged boost pills
11-10-01, 02:25 PM
#1
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clogged boost pills
What will the symptoms be if you have a clogged boost pill? Which hoses or solinoid will keep from your turbo's from opening up? I just did the hose job and can't get any boost. I can feel the turbo trying to spool up but just starts to backfire under load. Please help!
11-10-01, 03:18 PM
#2
Vagina Junction
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I dunno how you'd clog a pill, but assuming it is (or just that the hose is kinked), the wastegate will either not open, or open at the wrong time (too late), depending on how bad the clog/kink is. This is bad, as you will overboost something wicked. I feel your problem of lack of boost is a different issue.
~Tom
~Tom
11-10-01, 05:07 PM
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I actually have the same problem, though I had those two hoses extra long for a manual boost controller. I shortened them with no luck. If you find out your problem let me know, I'm sure it might help me out as well..
11-10-01, 05:52 PM
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If the primary boost pill was clogged your primary turbo would spin to oblivion.
When you begin "to feel" the turbos boost, what are you reading on the boost gauge?
Here are some things to think about.
1. You may have a loose spark plug cable.
2. You may have reversed the harnesses of the Waste Gate Control and the Precontrol Solenoids. (Match the paint dots together)
3. You may have reversed one or more of the check valves.
4. You may have installed a check valve on the boost sensor instead of the gas filter.
5. The boost sensor may not be plugged in correctly.
6. You may have turned the ignition to the on position while one or more sensors were off and caused stored faulty codes causing limp mode.
7. You may have messed with the TPS.
8. You may have not tightend all the Turbo/IC/Intake plumbing.
9. You may have put too short of a hose in tight bends causing the hose to kink or collapse.
10. You may have one or more hoses popped off.
11. I can't think of any more "You may have"s.
When you begin "to feel" the turbos boost, what are you reading on the boost gauge?
Here are some things to think about.
1. You may have a loose spark plug cable.
2. You may have reversed the harnesses of the Waste Gate Control and the Precontrol Solenoids. (Match the paint dots together)
3. You may have reversed one or more of the check valves.
4. You may have installed a check valve on the boost sensor instead of the gas filter.
5. The boost sensor may not be plugged in correctly.
6. You may have turned the ignition to the on position while one or more sensors were off and caused stored faulty codes causing limp mode.
7. You may have messed with the TPS.
8. You may have not tightend all the Turbo/IC/Intake plumbing.
9. You may have put too short of a hose in tight bends causing the hose to kink or collapse.
10. You may have one or more hoses popped off.
11. I can't think of any more "You may have"s.
11-10-01, 07:04 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I can get up to "0" on the boost guage then when the turbo tries to boost it feels like she's hesitating or cutting fuel, if I keep pressing the gas pedal then ultimately I get backfire. I could have very well switched one of the hoses or valves. What a pain in the *** it's gonna be to get under all that crap again. Makes me wanna go single just so can get rid of all that crap!
11-10-01, 11:45 PM
#7
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Hmm. 0 psi on the primary is your first problem to solve. The secondary should fall into place when you fix the primary. (Don't hold me to it though)
The primary turbo is by its self, a simple machine, and can be troubleshooted easily if you understand what it is doing, and how it is controlled.
First thing to know is that you should be seeing at least 7psi, period. (unless you have some serious boost leaks along the way)
The second thing to know is that you should never underestimate the power loss of loose hoses or a misdirected check valve. Find them and fix them.
All hoses tight, and check valves in check, then follow this advice:
(Starting from the easiest to hardest)
1. Check to see that your Double throttle valve is working properly. See Shop Manual
2. Inspect the charge control valve (CCV). There is a small hose (about 1.25") that plugges into the y-pipe to the lower CCV nipple. Remove and inspect this hose and use a Mighty-Vac hand pump to blow air into CCV. The CCV pushrod should fully retract and stay retracted. If not, slop some thick moly-lube around the shaft and work it back and forth and try applying pressure again. Replace the hose with a non kinking hose. Turn the key to on and make sure the CCV pushrod retracts. If it doesn't then you have a leak in the vacuum chamber system. (Not as important as first finding the primary issue but still improtant to overall performance.) Making sure the CCV will keep primary boost from spilling into the secondary.
3. Make sure the waste gate works. You can do this by removing your air box, or intake setup, and pulling off the hose from the primary turbo that leads to the wastegate actuator (Top one) and applying pressure using your hand pump to the actuator directly. Use a long hose bring your hand pump down low enough so that you can look under the car while you pump. You should see the actuator pushrod retract and hold. When you release the pressure the pushrod should return. Make sure that the pushrod is connected to the wastegate on the turbo manifold.Make sure that the pushrod is connected to the wastegate on the turbo manifold. If your are bleeding off pressure then there may be a leak in the hoses that leads to the wastegate solenoid.
4. Repeat step 3 on the precontrol actuator.
5. Make sure your leading coil isn't toast.
See how that works and maybe you will get lucky and not have to deal with secondary turbo problems.
The primary turbo is by its self, a simple machine, and can be troubleshooted easily if you understand what it is doing, and how it is controlled.
First thing to know is that you should be seeing at least 7psi, period. (unless you have some serious boost leaks along the way)
The second thing to know is that you should never underestimate the power loss of loose hoses or a misdirected check valve. Find them and fix them.
All hoses tight, and check valves in check, then follow this advice:
(Starting from the easiest to hardest)
1. Check to see that your Double throttle valve is working properly. See Shop Manual
2. Inspect the charge control valve (CCV). There is a small hose (about 1.25") that plugges into the y-pipe to the lower CCV nipple. Remove and inspect this hose and use a Mighty-Vac hand pump to blow air into CCV. The CCV pushrod should fully retract and stay retracted. If not, slop some thick moly-lube around the shaft and work it back and forth and try applying pressure again. Replace the hose with a non kinking hose. Turn the key to on and make sure the CCV pushrod retracts. If it doesn't then you have a leak in the vacuum chamber system. (Not as important as first finding the primary issue but still improtant to overall performance.) Making sure the CCV will keep primary boost from spilling into the secondary.
3. Make sure the waste gate works. You can do this by removing your air box, or intake setup, and pulling off the hose from the primary turbo that leads to the wastegate actuator (Top one) and applying pressure using your hand pump to the actuator directly. Use a long hose bring your hand pump down low enough so that you can look under the car while you pump. You should see the actuator pushrod retract and hold. When you release the pressure the pushrod should return. Make sure that the pushrod is connected to the wastegate on the turbo manifold.Make sure that the pushrod is connected to the wastegate on the turbo manifold. If your are bleeding off pressure then there may be a leak in the hoses that leads to the wastegate solenoid.
4. Repeat step 3 on the precontrol actuator.
5. Make sure your leading coil isn't toast.
See how that works and maybe you will get lucky and not have to deal with secondary turbo problems.
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