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Chromoly Axles: when do you need them??

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Old 11-20-01, 10:36 PM
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Chromoly Axles: when do you need them??

what is the limit on the stock FD axles?? i know there are a lot of factors envolved here like the amount of traction...etc. but i wanna know, running on drag radials, how much HP will it take to snap the stockers?? are they a weaklink in the FD's drivetrain?? how much power is required to necessitate upgraded or Chomoly Axles??

thanks.
Old 11-20-01, 11:01 PM
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Depending on how you drive. If you like to launch hard, and you have ~400+ HP at the wheels, and torque to match, then you will be needing some. Not to mention a diff that can handle it. I think that the diff will go first. If you have that much power but don't drag, you should be fine.
Old 11-21-01, 06:40 PM
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Originally posted by atihun
Depending on how you drive. If you like to launch hard, and you have ~400+ HP at the wheels, and torque to match, then you will be needing some. Not to mention a diff that can handle it. I think that the diff will go first. If you have that much power but don't drag, you should be fine.
ok...thanks.
Old 11-21-01, 09:58 PM
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You absolutely will break the torsen first (if you are making the power and launching on slicks). Once you replace the torsen with a Kaaz or equivelant, then if you start launching with a 2-step on slicks you will snap axles like their toothpicks. I have found that if you do not use a 2-step the axles will last for several passes ( I typically would get a full season out of stock axles making high 500's for HP) Also if you are using an aluminum flywheel, they live longer as well. If you want good axles Rotary performance is having some made now that are expensive (over $1000 a set) but they are tough. I have yet to hurt mine. And I have intentianally tried!

Good luck.

Jason.
Old 11-21-01, 10:29 PM
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One of the boots on my stock axel's CV joint has a small hole and is leaking greese. Anyone have any recomendations for me as far as rebuilding the unit? I will need to address the problem when I go in to install my new nylon bushings. Thanks.
Old 11-21-01, 11:53 PM
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Remove the rear wheel, the wheel hub assembly, and the axle will slide out of the diff, with a little prying of course. Replace the boot, but also make sure to replace the seal that is on the diff side.
Old 11-22-01, 02:09 AM
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Hi Joed...

Do you have the Kazz LSD now? Get this before the axles.
I broke my factory diff. and needed a new ring and pinion/
Housing/Kazz lsd/bearings and shims ect. Was over $3500
Canadian funds.

I broke it at the strip w/M and H's"Drag radials". Launching
at 6500 rpm.

I now have the Kazz but haven't been to the track yet. It's
winter here now. But in the new year I will add the Axles too.
Getting sick of being towed from the track.

I have heard if you have a ceramic Clutch disc as appose to the
stock organic disc this might have harder impacts on the drive-train as well. The Stock disc absorbs allot of the impact of 6500
rpm launches as well.

But get the Kazz unit first then axles if you're serious
about drag racing...
best wishes jc.
Old 02-28-02, 08:06 PM
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The option we use here in oz (rather than a Kazz) is the Guru torsen unit, I have it in my race car and it works really well, I use 'stock' axels but other guys I know also use chromemoly ones.

www.gurumotorsports.com
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