paulagre

www.turnerdr.com

from what research I have done, it seems like these guys might have a thing... for what they do for about 5 g's, one would think they could make for 13b last forever. but who knows.

rynberg

What exactly are you talking about? You just linked their generic website....

paulagre

I AGREE, I WAS SLIGHTLY VAGUE ( )

I WAS LOOKING AT HAVING THEM BUILD ME A MOTOR...

paulagre

Basically, I did some research and it seemed to be in order to build a reliable rotory, I would probably have to replace rotory housings. Well, I was at first gonna do it myself. But after comparing parts prices to the price of these guys doing it. it seemed worth it for about 3000$. Then if you look at all the heat treating and coating and **** they do, for another 2g's seemed like a good idea. but I really don't know if what they say is true. It sounds legit, about rotor housings and ceramic coating and I really want to do my motor right, even though I would have liked to build it myself, it will probably last a year or so, and then its back out. not like it was that hard to pull it.

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

Honestly, I have built motors using stock parts and never really had a reliability problem. During the build you have to be sure to inspect each part carefully and be sure that they are all within operating specs.

What makes a motor reliable is the ECU and tune. Also, the function of the motor contributes greatly. You cant really expect a drag racing motor that you cram 35PSI into every week to last forever. You are operating far beyond the envelope the engine was designed for.

If you build a car correctly with a modest turbo, and keep the boost levels moderate, you shouldnt have a problem. It isnt something that you need to spend an extra 2,000 to 3,000 dollars to do.

My opinion is highly biased though, rebuilding an engine for me is not a big deal.

rynberg

There's nothing that special about these guys...I would never pay extra money for any kind of coatings, but that's just me. New rotor housings, yes.

I had my motor rebuilt last year and didn't cut any corners, believe you me. You can look up my experience by searching for "rebuild" and my username.

paulagre

Just for ***** and giggles, if you have the time. How would you rebuild a 13b that probably has 100k+ (i dont really know). I am looking for a fun car, I don't want a race car or a drag car. I expect to be in the realm of 400-450 whp. Doesnt everyone? Seriously though, I am new to rotories as you might be able to tell. So I don't really know what I am doing. I have time on my side, and a lot of friendly knowledgable people on this forum to get me going. I have my motor sitting on some jack stands every night I go out there and I envision the future. I want the foundation being the engine to be fool proof.

so do i get the full on gasket kit?
new rotor housings are a yes... what about ceramic coating rotors?
3mm apex seals?
im planning on street port, good?
stud kit?
what kind of machining has to be done besides the street port?
bearings? DO THEY NEED TO BE REPACED?
any other good things i should know?

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

Dont worry about coating anything.

Use 2mm seals. 3MM are overrated, and in a situation where you will break a 2mm seal, you will break a 3mm seal.

for 400whp you dont need any of these extra things. Just build the engine, and overbuild the supporting systems.

Street port is fine. Replace bearings if they show wear.

New rotorhousings are a good idea, but if yours are in good shape, i wouldnt hesitate to reuse them.

You shouldnt need to machine anything.

Just use all new seals and make sure everything is to spec (and clean) and you will be fine.

I'd seriously worry about the supporting modifications more. Overbuild the fuel system and get a quality standalone (tecIIIr is my choice..) and have it tuned by a professional. Realize that reliability (AT YOUR POWER GOALS) comes from a conseritive tune, so dont ask the tuner to squeeze every last HP out of the engine.

paulagre

So 3mm Apex Seals Are Supposedly For Greater Reliability, But Don't Actually Provide That?

paulagre

ALSO, STOCK TWINS...ARE THEY GOOD UP TO ABOUT 400 WHP? They look small, but size isnt everything... I was thinking of going single turbo... And also are they supposed to have a small bit of play in the shafts when they are cold?

windom

iTrader: (1)

Stock modified twins such as the BNR stage 3's will meet a requirement for 400WHP. The stock twins themselves are USUALLY only good for around 350WHP, maybe a tad more, and that's pushing their efficiency range.

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

Exactly. It is a waste of time. usually if the detenation will distroy a 2mm seal, it will take the 3mm out too. I have had success running high boost/HP with stock 2 mm seals. I know i'm not the only one.

rynberg

Look up my thread and you'll see....