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I am a bad person. I did not think I would be keeping the car in storage for very long and then time flew by. 10 years later I've had it in the garage for a couple years and I want to get it running to sell. I assume tank will need to be drained and lines cleared, etc. but I'm wondering about cranking the engine after so long. Only ~45k miles and no engine rebuild. Last time it was in the shop it was logging 8+ PSI which I believe is still in the "good" range. Any advice would be appreciated.
I personally don't have any info on the topic but a few people have posted about similar scenarios and the process they used. Try searching.
Good luck getting it running!
Cars that sit are a can of worms. They are easy to "get running" however having them running, safe, and reliable is another story. It becomes a "while your in there and parts are 25+ years old...."
Basics to get running.
-Change all fluids (Engine fluids first. If the engine does not start, no need to mess with the trans, diff, or brake fluid. Brake fluid might already be leaking where the master connects to the booster, quite common. You can skip the P/S pump as well only if you leave the AC/PS belt off. If you change the p/s fluid, you need to bleed it before starting)
-Drain fuel tank and inspect fuel tank / hanger for rust. Fuel tanks get nasty as does the hanger assembly with the fuel level sensor.
-Replace fuel pump and filter
-Replace spark plugs (test resistance on spark plug wires and coils. Replace if out of spec)
-Inspect air filter
-Replace drive belts
-Remove fuel pump fuse / spark plug wires to crank and build oil pressure
-Prime fuel system a few times to check for leaks THROUGHLY.
-See if it starts and if so, bleed coolant via a Lisle type funnel setup.
That should get the engine started but by no means will it guarantee it operate correctly. Every piece of rubber being 25+ years old can now leak/burst at anytime. This is very dangerous in regards to the fuel system such as the injector o-rings, fuel pressure regulator o-ring, fuel pulsation damper o-ring. Another item to keep an eye on is the factory plastic air separation tank, common failure.
Thus back to my first comment. Many potential buyers of these cars simply want a base chassis to build on and will pull/rebuild that engine before even trying to get it running. A running engine with 80 psi, hot or cold, will not exactly add value to the sale of these cars.
Got mine running after previous owner left it sitting for almost 10 yearsoutside.
Did fluids, battery, spark plugs/wires poured MMO into housing and turned engine by hand. If it doesnt do that it could be siezed but if it does turn you should be able to hear compression sounds unless seals are stuck. If it all checks out. Try to start it.
Thanks for the information guys. It's very helpful. I agree that I may be better off selling as is. I guess it wouldn't hurt to put up at my price and see if anyone is interested.
"Brake fluid might already be leaking where the master connects to the booster"
This might explain why the brakes didn't work when we rolled it off the tow truck.
Thanks for the information guys. It's very helpful. I agree that I may be better off selling as is. I guess it wouldn't hurt to put up at my price and see if anyone is interested.
"Brake fluid might already be leaking where the master connects to the booster"
This might explain why the brakes didn't work when we rolled it off the tow truck.
If the brakes didn't work at all, it's usually frozen pistons in the calipers or a stuck master cylinder. Brake fluid does not age well, it absorbs moisture and rots from the inside out. As you can see, these cars are prime candidates for complete mechanical restorations.
- Gas tank rusted inside, fuel pump and sender covered in rust
- Brakes rusted stuck
- Moldy interior
- Rusty coolant passages in engine
- Transmission sticking
- Weak seals on hydraulics (brake master, clutch master)
The car can be fixed and saved. If you have the time/tools/money it can be done, just go in stages and don't get carried away. If you don't, find a good home for it, someone who does have the time/tools/money and will do it right.
I don't know how far you are from Rotary Performance in Garland, TX but if you would rather take it to a shop to get fixed up they can totally take care of you.
I don't know how far you are from Rotary Performance in Garland, TX but if you would rather take it to a shop to get fixed up they can totally take care of you.
Dale
Thanks for the information Dale. I am very close to RP. Less than 5 miles. They did all the maintenance work on the car and also helped rebuild the trans (for 5th gear synchro issue) after the job got too big for me. At the time I didn't want to spend $$$ for a special wrench to completely disassemble the gears. Unfortunately they had some incident with their system and now there's no proof they did anything other than their sticker on the driver side door opening.
I called them last week and haven't heard back from them. I don't think they're as good as they used to be but I will try again.
Assuming you have the time and energy.... At the very least, I would try and get the engine started / startable to prove it's not junk and maybe be able to do a compression test. That should help improve the selling price.
Brakes aren't hard to fix either. Ray Crowe is your friend there. He can get you a new master cylinder. Ray Crowe <crowe.ray@aol.com>;
Decided to restore it. dropped it off at Rotary Performance yesterday. They had a 20-year stored from Houston that looked close to finished that looked great. I feel spoiled having them 5 miles from my home.
03-19-21, 10:44 PM
