Need some ideas......

The oil leak is at the passenger side motor mount. Of the three bolts, it is at the bolt that is farthest on the right, toward the rear of the car.

I have had the oil pan resealed 3 times in less then 5000 miles. Each time the leak has stopped for a few heat cycles then starts up. It will leak while the car is sitting for an extended time not just when running.

I keep my oil below half on the dip stick. Motor mounts were replaced. That was when the first reseal was done. The shop that has done the work is very good and we are both stumped. (They have only charged me one reseal)

I need to think outside the box. Cracked block? Bent pan?
What do you guys think. There is nothing obvious.

And so it goes..........Thanks
Niles

 

A cracked block/pan would be fairly easy to see. I have read that the sealant needs to be liberally applied to those mounts to work well. Maybe tell the shop to "slather" it on this time or take it to another shop. I know how annoying this type of thing can be - I have done my fuel system 3 times so far and it still isnt right. I guess the only real piece of info I am offering is "one definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again expecting a different result". Try something different - like taking it to another shop - a friend of mine had his mounts done recently it wasnt a problem at all. Was it leaking before or did you just have your mounts done?

Shawn

 

You're right, try something different.

There was no leak before the mounts were done. It was reccomended that the pan be done at the same time as the mounts as changing them can lead to a bad seal around the pan........they were right.....the seal is bad.! But it shouldn't be.

I have thought about another shop but another shop will charge me. The current shop has so far stood by their work. I am almost confident that the issue is not the mechanic but a fresh look might be a good idea. And perhaps doing it my self.

Anybody else have any thoughts?

Niles

 

A bad motor mount can warp the pan so when they take it off next time be sure they check it very carefully if it looks at all suspiscious get a new one. I was told to use a gasket with silicone goop on either side and don't use much torque. Call Malloy for the gasket and all your oem needs 888 533 3400 and ask for Ray.
Good luck,
Fritz
PS Wheels are on there way to ccw

 

Most likely the pan is crooked on the turbo side.
The heat cycle near the turbo always make the pan expand and contract. Overtime this will deform the pan and reduce the sealing capacity of the sealant.

I had to do this twice within 2 weeks last time, and after 1 year it start to leak again.
What we did is put the pan flat on flat floor, and start banging on the pan flat edges to make sure it is flat.
We can see that it was crooked before because the floor is flat but one side of the pan is lifted up.

 

After the motor mount bolts are tourqued you have to get to the little pan bolts behind the mounts and retighten them. They loosen when the motor mount bolts are brought to full toque. A bent pan will do it as well but i think loose pan bolts behind that mount may be the problem. ( it's gotten me before)And i agree with Fritz that a gasket should be used along with alot of silicon goo on both sides of the gasket to the inside of the bolt holes.And Malloy Mazda rocks!!

 

Guys, thanks.

All good ideas.

Does everyone here recommend a gasket? or just goop for the pan seal

Niles

 

Well my advice will be no good because mine was done (no gasket, just silicone) for a leak in that location and it started leaking again after a few months. I just live with it now. Oil stops corrosion ;-).

 

May i ask why, unless you aren't running the motor much or at all??

 

To much oil and the crank case vents, well, everywhere.
I track and autocross the car and have learned this the hard way. For everyday street driving a full dip stick is not an issue.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try a gasket next round.
Niles